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When they refer to breather hoses they are referring to the PCV system.

A small amount of oil around the throttle body could be signs of the o-ring around the top of the throttle body that seals the intake pipe being folded or pinched or missing or the clamp simply isn't tight enough..

While you are pinching hoses and snooping around wipe things down and make note of any spots that are worse than others to try to see where the oil is coming from.
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Alright will check into those things. Thank you much :)
 

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Thanks bob3000. Yes good tip, I'll check those things and all around the oil trap.
However, do symptoms sound like a PCV problem i.e. oil around the Throttle body and the intake pipe coming into the throttle body? Or could that be something else? The guy from Eeuroparts mentioned oil would be coming from the breather hoses, but I'm not sure where those are.
This is the inside of my oil separator... Down in the right corner is the inside of the connection for the PCV line with the check valve. It’s all clogged up. My engine had High positive crank pressure and meny oil leaks. Disturbing stuff...
269676
 

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This is the inside of my oil separator... Down in the right corner is the inside of the connection for the PCV line with the check valve. It’s all clogged up. My engine had High positive crank pressure and many oil leaks. Disturbing stuff...
Wow looks pretty bad if it was full of all that gunk. How did you resolve the problem? Just clean it out or replace it and the hoses and valves too? How did you check the positive crankcase pressure?
 

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Time to drop the sump/oil pan, not a terrible job...not a fun job but I'd imagine it will feel rewarding in your situation.
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Wow looks pretty bad if it was full of all that gunk. How did you resolve the problem? Just clean it out or replace it and the hoses and valves too? How did you check the positive crankcase pressure?
I'm in the process of changing the whole pcv system. I also changed out the vacuum hoses with silicone ones. The positive pressure is easy to test by wrapping a rubber glove around the oil-filler neck and check for the balloon effect. I did a compression test to check if i had excessive blow-by, and that looked ok.
 

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Do you see a connection between the part where the blowby from the crankcase enters the oiltrap (lower left part) and the part where the tube for oil reflow to the oilpan (upper left part) is connected?
 

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Do you see a connection between the part where the blowby from the crankcase enters the oiltrap (lower left part) and the part where the tube for oil reflow to the oilpan (upper left part) is connected?

Nope, no connection. With the pcv clogged, my crank pressure returned through the oil return hose. When i unplugged the lower hose from the engine and blocked off the hose, oil would shoot out from the oil return nipple!
 

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This is what I found with pics of oil in various places.
1. I did the glove test over the oil filler, and it blew up like a balloon when starting the car but then collapsed after a couple of secs - no blow by - does that mean I do not have excessive crankcase pressure?
2. The PCV hose from oil trap to valve cover looks good, no residue inside
3. The PCV valve (that sits almost in the center just behind the valve cover, and the one that always breaks!!) is of course broken but I have taped it together for now. I had replaced this whole hose with valve which goes from the oil trap to the throttle body. I know the valve is broken but I don't think that is causing all this oil.
4. As you can see a lot of oil all round the throttle body(see pics), intake manifold on the top and and also from bottom(see pic), seems like it poured from top to the bottom. That oil is also dropping further down to the oil pan, exhaust etc. and causing burning oil smells. I did lose a lot of oil and once I had a big puddle underneath and a lot of burning oil from the hot engine. The leak is not as bad now, but maybe because I haven't topped of the oil to normal. The oil is low but still registers on the dipstick and oil light is not coming on. My guess is if I top it of again, I might have this huge oil puddle, I am not sure??
5. I lifted the big plastic intake pipe that connects to the throttle body, and the O ring on the throttle body was really flat so I don't think it is providing a good seal. But can that cause so much oil to be pushed out? Should there be so much oil coming back from the intake pipe?
5. I lifted the PCV hose that connects to the cobra and I see some oil in there.
6. From underneath - there is oil underneath the turbo as well(see pic) - where could this be from?
7. I didn't undo the Oil trap but that looked pretty clean from the outside
8. I had replaced o rings in the dip stick tube and there is no oil coming from there or other hoses from oil trap
9. Some more background: I have recently changed head gasket and one piston and changed all piston rings, had dropped the oil pan to do the piston - no gunk in the oil pan, really clean. I had some sweating around the throttle body before doing this work, but after doing this work oil problem has become quite big and I am wondering if I didn't put something back right. There shouldn't be blow back from the engine because of the new rings I am guessing!!
Anyway a lot of info here - maybe someone can shed some light on what might be going on?
Thank you so much!!
 

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do you have PCV kit #6 installed?
anyway, check all check valves (2 big ones, 1 small one, which seems to broken on your engine), on mine one was clogged causing excessive oil leakage.
As it was the cheap PCV kit, not original Saab, it lasted only < 70.000 miles.
On the cobra, there is an O ring. Your one seems to be old, you can see oil on the clamp of the cobra, dripping to the bottom of the turbo.
Under the throttle body there is also a sealing which ages and creates oil leakage. But normally there shouldn´t be that much oil in the air entering the throttle body. --> check turbocharger for axial play.
The o ring on top of the throttle body should be replaced.
 

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This is what I found with pics of oil in various places.
1. I did the glove test over the oil filler, and it blew up like a balloon when starting the car but then collapsed after a couple of secs - no blow by - does that mean I do not have excessive crankcase pressure?
2. The PCV hose from oil trap to valve cover looks good, no residue inside
3. The PCV valve (that sits almost in the center just behind the valve cover, and the one that always breaks!!) is of course broken but I have taped it together for now. I had replaced this whole hose with valve which goes from the oil trap to the throttle body. I know the valve is broken but I don't think that is causing all this oil.
4. As you can see a lot of oil all round the throttle body(see pics), intake manifold on the top and and also from bottom(see pic), seems like it poured from top to the bottom. That oil is also dropping further down to the oil pan, exhaust etc. and causing burning oil smells. I did lose a lot of oil and once I had a big puddle underneath and a lot of burning oil from the hot engine. The leak is not as bad now, but maybe because I haven't topped of the oil to normal. The oil is low but still registers on the dipstick and oil light is not coming on. My guess is if I top it of again, I might have this huge oil puddle, I am not sure??
5. I lifted the big plastic intake pipe that connects to the throttle body, and the O ring on the throttle body was really flat so I don't think it is providing a good seal. But can that cause so much oil to be pushed out? Should there be so much oil coming back from the intake pipe?
5. I lifted the PCV hose that connects to the cobra and I see some oil in there.
6. From underneath - there is oil underneath the turbo as well(see pic) - where could this be from?
7. I didn't undo the Oil trap but that looked pretty clean from the outside
8. I had replaced o rings in the dip stick tube and there is no oil coming from there or other hoses from oil trap
9. Some more background: I have recently changed head gasket and one piston and changed all piston rings, had dropped the oil pan to do the piston - no gunk in the oil pan, really clean. I had some sweating around the throttle body before doing this work, but after doing this work oil problem has become quite big and I am wondering if I didn't put something back right. There shouldn't be blow back from the engine because of the new rings I am guessing!!
Anyway a lot of info here - maybe someone can shed some light on what might be going on?
Thank you so much!!
If you have a puddle of oil i would look at some engine seal issues. That amount of oil would not come from the throttlebody. Try cleaning the engine with degreaser and check for leaks when it's clean. You will find it eventually.
 

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Hi Thaistatos, thanks for the info.
My Saab has the newer PCV so doesn't need an update, but I don't know if I need to replace all the PCV components anyway since it has 150K miles on it? I have the kit in my cart with Eeuroparts but haven't ordered it yet as I am not sure I need all of those and want to figure what the problem might be, causing all is this oil to travel up the intake pipe.
So from what I understand there 2 valves and 4 hoses for the PCV. One from Oil trap to the Throttle body which a has a check valve (and is broken on mine and i'll be replacing for sure). One hose from the Oil trap to the valve cover(no valve - soft hose). One from the Oil trap to the Cobra which has a valve (restrictive rather than one way I believe). And there is one hose(soft hose) that goes from the oil trap down to oil pan. The hoses look good to me. Not sure how to check the valves without just replacing them...how would I do that? Could a gunked up oil trap cause this??
Yes - definitely will be replacing the upper O ring on the Throttle body - but my primary concern is why is there so much oil coming from that intake pipe into the throttle body area in the first place?
Thanks for pointing out the turbo O ring, I'll check that out. I was starting to wonder when I saw the oil under the turbo if it was going bad and that could cause so much oil to be pushed up the intake pipe? But if it is just the O ring for the leak there, that would be a relief!! And I'll check the play on the turbo - what exactly do you mean when you say axial play?
Thanks once again!
 

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turbocharger: try to push and pull the shaft from left to right (axial direction), not up and down (radial direction). In axial direction limit is 0.036-0.091mm, which is hardly noticeable by hand. If you can move the shaft in axial direction it indicates a worn turbocharger which might inflict higher oil consumption.
the new system only has this single check valve, the other line to the cobra is a flow restrictor to reduce/control the gasflow, there is nothing to check.
looking at #22: you could try to blow air to the tube which normally connects to the throttlebody. When there is no restriction this air should exit the engine by the valve cover if you remove the plug there. (But I have not tested this one).
On the throttle body there are two o rings, one at the top sealing the black pipe, one at the bottom between throttle body and intake manifold. Both should be replaced. This will hopefully keep the oil inside the throttlebody, so you do not see that you could have (high) oil consumption.;)
--> replace two o rings at throttle
--> replace cobra o ring
--> replace broken check valve
--> check oil trap to exclude clogged oil trap like #22
--> clean engine and check again
--> be careful when reinstalling the black pipe to the throttle body, it has to be pushed down a little bit unil it plops and fits correctly, then install the clamp
 

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turbocharger: try to push and pull the shaft from left to right (axial direction), not up and down (radial direction). In axial direction limit is 0.036-0.091mm, which is hardly noticeable by hand. If you can move the shaft in axial direction it indicates a worn turbocharger which might inflict higher oil consumption.
the new system only has this single check valve, the other line to the cobra is a flow restrictor to reduce/control the gasflow, there is nothing to check.
looking at #22: you could try to blow air to the tube which normally connects to the throttlebody. When there is no restriction this air should exit the engine by the valve cover if you remove the plug there. (But I have not tested this one).
On the throttle body there are two o rings, one at the top sealing the black pipe, one at the bottom between throttle body and intake manifold. Both should be replaced. This will hopefully keep the oil inside the throttlebody, so you do not see that you could have (high) oil consumption.;)
--> replace two o rings at throttle
--> replace cobra o ring
--> replace broken check valve
--> check oil trap to exclude clogged oil trap like #22
--> clean engine and check again
--> be careful when reinstalling the black pipe to the throttle body, it has to be pushed down a little bit unil it plops and fits correctly, then install the clamp
Ok wonderful thanks Thaistatos. I appreciate it!!
 

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If you have a puddle of oil i would look at some engine seal issues. That amount of oil would not come from the throttlebody. Try cleaning the engine with degreaser and check for leaks when it's clean. You will find it eventually.
Thanks. yes I need to clean it up and see. I don't think its the seals though where it is coming from.
 

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Basically I'm wondering should our oil traps be taken off and cleaned or replaced?
i recently replaced the oil trap and PCV hoses on my 2004 wagon (so my car already had the update oiltrap and pcv system). my main reason was as a preventative maintenance procedure, and because i had noticed some slight oil leaking marks (incl at the oiltrap/engine-block connection point) and was concerned this might indicate some reduced ventilation airflow. my oil pickup grill was inspected 4-5 yrs ago (and had only minor oil sludge contamination at the time), and i intend to do this again in the next few months.

from the background reading i did on the PCV system, the main points i found:
  • the engine oil sludge problem still exists in many modern cars, including our saab's with the updated post 2004 PCV systems.
  • the problem is significantly increased if you drive the car frequently at low speeds in multiple start/stops (eg frequently in busy city traffic)
  • even when using the right oil's (and regular 5000 k oil changes), and having the updated PCV system, replacing elements of the PCV system (partic the hoses which can decay internally, and the PCV valves) is recommended as part of normal maintenance (and after +/- 3 yrs inspect annually)
  • even in a well maintained car the sump should be dropped at least every 3 or 4 years to inspect the oil pickup system and to check the sump for sludge. At the normal 6/12 maintenance intervals, also inspect the PCV system regularly for signs of reduced airflow or small oil leaks etc..
  • oil sludge is created by oil breakdown products (even from good quality or synthetic oil) AND decaying elements separating from the inner surfaces of PCV system hoses (or other rubber seals etc).
  • the valves on PCV hoses can become blocked or partially obstructed (inspect after +/- 3 yrs annually)
  • multiple small oil leaks at several PCV system or engine points (valve cover, oil trap, PCV hoses, throttle body connections etc..) can indicated a stressed and partially blocked PCV system. there is an official saab factory warning to their dealers and service agents about this specifically.
  • the oil trap itself is unlikely to be a problem (unless in extreme contamination and severe PCV malfunction), but it is an inexpensive 30 $ part so better to include if you are replacing most of the PCV hoses and valves. unless you have a small camera to inspect the oil trap box internally once you have removed it to ensure it is clean , it is not worth trying to flush or clean it out to try and save 30 $ imho, but YMMV
  • replacing/removing the oil trap on post-2004 models is a MAJOR pain because it is hard to to access and remove from below (depending if you have a LHD or RHD model ?). if you are replacing/removing an alternator for another repair, this might be a good time to do the PCV hoses and oil trap at the same time.
  • there are various rubber O ring seals in the oil/air and PCV system that you might want to replace at the same time if you are already doing the oil trap (for ex at the oil dipstick/engine-block connection point). some of those are included if you order the "PCV replacement kit", but not all.
  • there is a "PCV replacement kit" for pre-2004 models, and a different kit for post-2004 models
  • the post 2004 model oil trap item number is the same as the model 2006 onward part model, the part numbers can be confusing on some websites (and in the EPC)
  • the PCV hose connection points are shaped differently on pre-2004 and post-2004 oil traps , so you need to use the correct hoses on the correct oil trap models
  • for MY 2004/2005 models should have the new design oil trap (which connects directly into the engine block) and have the newer PCV hose system, but 1 of the 3 main PCV hoses from the oil trap might not be the "final revision " version used for most of the 2005/2006 models onwards ( if there is a valve/airflow-restrictor on the hose connecting from the oil trap to the cobra pipe you have the good final post-2006 hose version). if your 2004/2005 model does not have this valve/airflow-restrictor , be aware that you cant just change that hose on its own, the oil trap connection fitting is different then those found on the 2006 model oil trap onward models (eg you then need to use a 2006 model oil trap with the 2006 onwards PCV hoses). sounds confusing, but those with a 2004/2005 model will understand hopefully.
in short, PCV hoses and valves should be replaced as part of the maintenance process approx 3 to 5 yrs, and inspected at the regular maintenance intervals

note: i found some of the proparts PCV hoses much harder to connect to the oil trap (they clip on ) then using the genuine saab parts, if i would have to re-order the parts i would still use the proparts oiltrap, but use genuine saab hoses for the 3 that connect to the upper oil trap area (the lower 4th connection is just a short generic rubber hose to the engine block).

just my 2 cents, might help another person looking at this maintenance issue
 

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My06 9-5 replaced pcv system, oil pump and cover. Crank seal still leaks. I have not dropped the sump or checked the oil pressure relief valve. Would these cause high crank pressure? PS. Raised engine, reversed oil collection box and worked it around the right with mount removed.
 

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dropping the oil sump to clean it on a well maintained car with regular oil changes is totally unnecessary. if you have positive crank case pressure the piston rings are probably the issue. Unless you have a pressure leak into the crankcase due to a stuck check valve the engine should be in vacuum at all times. Unless of course it has a bs tune on it and then the engine is done for. You can put a rubber glove over the dipstick tube and run the car at idle. If the glove blows up you have serious issues. I would expect around 18-20 hg negative on closed throttle on the over run. Modified engines with tunes often run positive crankcase pressure and that's their downfall. Detonation from low octane fuel, bad fuel or stupid tunes will wreck the rings and pistons faster than you can say "O s**t!" . Once the damage is done, then its over....There are a couple of pcv check valves in the PCV system, I replaced mine some time ago ( if you need the exact mileage I can find it in my vehicle logbook) but DO NOT USE PROPARTS ANYTHING!! The Proparts crap doesnt fit correctly in most cases, is made from inferior materials and will totally cost you time and money. I buy my major Saab parts from Maptun, so I can be sure of good parts and great service. eEuro fell off my call list long ago..sadly. eSaab I thought were good but I didn't get any reply last go round....SO Maptun.
 

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Did mine today (it was unplanned) but I was attempting some correction of my alternator main cable connection. It has been bugging me as I am losing voltage and it snaked around in a very odd way. It was near impossible to remove the cable connection nut for some reason. It was caked in what looked like solder and was very hard. i had to pry/cut away this crap to get a hold on the nut, which was not tight on.

Anyway ended up removing the lower oil box pipe that goes to the sump and the inlet manifold support bracket as well as the dip sick pipe (which had both lower and upper O ring that were next to useless and hard - so replaced these).

With that all gone I could see oil seepage from the box lower connection pipe where it returns into the engine block. So I decide to go for a full removal. What I found was that the outside PC pipes that connect to the top of the oil capture box were in place but not locked on properly. This was great to aid removal (as I only had one central pipe to remove/un-clip, which was not easy) but it was not good news as it has been like this for sometime.

Now the real issue is that once the box is removed it will not come out from the bottom as there insufficient clearance because of subframe, steering rack and exhaust pipe ( I think if I dropped the exhaust it would be possible to get it out here - but was not interested in potentially giving myself extra exhaust bolt issues). So you can only get this oil capture box out by removing the alternator and or the inlet manifold (also not in my plans today).

What is good is that you can spin it round and inspect it from every position from under the car. Great news for me, no oil/sludge/residue anywhere. Very clean.

The issue was that the O ring that fits around the return pipe that goes back into the block was hard and not working. So fitted a new O ring and replaced everything.

Oh yes and fixed my alternator cable which was totally gummed up, not properly connected and locked in place with melted rubber and a very hard dark brown residue. So I think had been over heating either from arcing/bad connection and being trapped on to the engine block behind the exhaust support bracket and the oil/sump pipe and the dip stick pipe. Crazy I know.
Hi there - I realize this is an old post. I have an oil leak problem from the oil trap as well it seems, and I think I need to do the same thing. It might be the "O" ring of the insert that goes into the block. And if so perhaps I don't need to remove the whole trap which seems like real pain in the back side. Are you able to give me a few pointers/steps how best to do this? Which approach did you take? What components did you remove? Was it easy enough to spin it around to take a look at it and remove the 'O" ring? I don't believe an "O" ring can be bought from Saab or Eeuroparts. Was it easy enough to take your old "O" ring to a parts store and get them to match it for you? Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks much!!
 

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Hi there - I realize this is an old post. I have an oil leak problem from the oil trap as well it seems, and I think I need to do the same thing. It might be the "O" ring of the insert that goes into the block. And if so perhaps I don't need to remove the whole trap which seems like real pain in the back side. Are you able to give me a few pointers/steps how best to do this? Which approach did you take? What components did you remove? Was it easy enough to spin it around to take a look at it and remove the 'O" ring? I don't believe an "O" ring can be bought from Saab or Eeuroparts. Was it easy enough to take your old "O" ring to a parts store and get them to match it for you? Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks much!!
I highly recommend you change the whole box out for a new one. I just removed the oil-stick tube , support for the intake and some cables and wiggled it out on the right side of the hood. The plastic is so fragile that it cracks once you pull on it.
 
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