[hunterstein555]

I have a torn CV boot and for $80 an axle I am just going to replace the whole axle. It's on the passenger side of an automatic '03.

I read on some post that it's easiest to just replace the inner axle (?) as well? I'm not sure what it looks like down there, so if someone could provide a part number for said 'intermediate axle' that'd be awesome, and any pointers or tips are appreciated!

 

[Jeremy R.]

I've never heard of anyone replacing the entire inner axle (aka the intermediate shaft). It's just a metal shaft, so the only thing that goes wrong with it is the bearing that it rides on. That bearing seems to be good for at least 150,000 miles. The bearing bracket doubles as the lower alternator bracket, which means that you'll have to remove the alternator, or at the very least remove the lower bolt and loosen the upper one so you can pivot it out of the way. There are some CV axles that include the intermediate shaft when you buy a remanufactured one, like my wife's old 2001 Ford Focus, but the 9-5 isn't like that.

 

[hunterstein555]

Maybe I'm incorrect then, but I'm sure I saw a thread where someone was having a lot of trouble getting out the axle, and someone suggested that it's easiest to replace both outer and intermediate

 

[Jeremy R.]

If you have the right tools, it's easy to separate the axle from the intermediate shaft. If you don't, then it might be easier to remove both parts at once. Autozone and O'Reilly's both rent a CV axle puller attachment for a slide hammer, and they rent the slide hammer, too. Both parts together look like this:

Amazon.com: OTC (7509) Inner CV Joint Puller: Automotive

Buy OTC (7509) Inner CV Joint Puller: Puller Sets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

You hook the crow's foot-looking part around the inner CV joint, and give the slide hammer a few good whacks or slides. Those tools have always worked wonders for me.

 

[hunterstein555]

I got a quote from a shop saying they'll do it for roughly $170. I'm not sure if I should tackle it myself or not

I can rent one of those tools, but I'm worried about breaking stuff. The car sat for about a year, maybe a year and a half. I've encountered some pretty rusted up clamps/bolts in various places that I've had to dremel out

I have an impact/breaker bars and such but I'm worried about the axle not coming out and being stuck/breaking things

 

[Jeremy R.]

If you're anywhere that's rust-prone, spending $170 to have it done may well be worth it. I'm in Seattle where cars don't rust, and I had a heck of a time getting the hub nut off and the splined end of the shaft out of the hub on my 2000 9-5. I don't think they use an ounce of lubricant when putting any of this stuff together at the factory. I always grease the splined shaft before sliding it into the hub, and that makes disassembly so much easier the next time it has to be done.

 

[hunterstein555]

I live in Maine, so very rust prone. I think I'm gonna have them do it.

What do people think about cardone/carquest CV axles?

 

[Zane]

I live in Maine, so very rust prone. I think I'm gonna have them do it.

What do people think about cardone/carquest CV axles?

Rebuilt axles are incredibly hit or miss. I've had some that are perfect, others that vibrate at certain speeds. My advice is to keep the stock axles, have them replaced, and if you notice a vibration, get them rebuilt and swapped in.

I noticed my axle lost all it's grease on a Sunday so my only option was an Autozone replacement. The car was driveable but there was a noticeable vibration so I had the stock axle reconditioned. Having the autozone spare will allow me to send off my passenger side to be reconditioned eventually.

 

[hunterstein555]

I found a cardone one that’s new and $60. A couple random searches on google shows people saying it’s a solid product

 

[EdT]

If you're anywhere that's rust-prone, spending $170 to have it done may well be worth it. I'm in Seattle where cars don't rust, and I had a heck of a time getting the hub nut off and the splined end of the shaft out of the hub on my 2000 9-5. I don't think they use an ounce of lubricant when putting any of this stuff together at the factory. I always grease the splined shaft before sliding it into the hub, and that makes disassembly so much easier the next time it has to be done.

I didn't have any huge challenges getting the hub nuts off, and the axles out of, a couple of junkyard cars. And that's without the cars being on the ground, and without anyone stepping on the brakes. (But the hubs would not come out, and that's what I was trying to do. Convinced me not to try swapping hubs in the driveway.)