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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Anyone happen to know what it is? Or maybe how many circuits it has? I'm looking to make an adapter! I don't even remember what it looks like.

I think it's H33-5 … maybe it's 4173852 or 12798080 on the male side. I can't find the female side… Could be 4806881?

Terminal 16 (Green, CAN High) and Terminal 32 (White, CAN Low) are the smaller size terminal, but I can't tell what part number. I don't know which "Area" of the connector is which. It's one of these!

Female =
12790414
12789796
30520557

Male =
4115580
12790614
12789934

I need to find a compatible 2-terminal housing … that might be 12795968 and 12790106.
 

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12790414 and 12790614 are most common pins.
 

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I'm not quite picturing what you want to do. But, from the picture in WIS, what is keeping you from snipping both connectors out of a junkyard car and reversing the polarity er crossing the beams er just wiring them up together, while tapping off whatever you want in the middle splice? Then you plug the female end of the adaptor into the male plug on the car, the male end of the adaptor into the female end, and Bob is your uncle.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I want to avoid having to make a splice, and I want to minimize my time under the dashboard. The plan is to extract the two CAN terminals from the H33-5, stick them in a 2-circuit housing, and make a splitter with one leg that connects to a CombiAdapter and the other leg loose pigtails that go back into H33-5. Basically, a 9-3 CAN breakout cable.

To do that, I need to find a housing that will accept the terminals extracted from H33-5, and then spare terminals that can go back into it.

From what I have seen, it appears that the easiest approach might be to use the 4-pin O2 sensor housing... the 2-pin female housing is used on speakers (easy to harvest!) but the 2-pin male housing is uncommon. :| I probably need to start by grabbing an H33-5 junction and being sure of what terminals are there. It's very likely I can just buy generic TE/AMP housings from Digikey cheaply to finish the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
12790414 and 12790614 are most common pins.
Thank you! From the specs that makes sense. Saabs method of presenting terminals makes a lot of sense for Saab technicians ordering spare parts, but less so for people trying to do weird things with Saab wiring. :)
 

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Thank you! From the specs that makes sense. Saabs method of presenting terminals makes a lot of sense for Saab technicians ordering spare parts, but less so for people trying to do weird things with Saab wiring. :)
I went through that with my buddies at the local dealer parts department once when trying to figure out what pin was needed... the parts manager said that they just had a huge plastic compartment box with ALL the terminal types in it. When they needed one, they matched it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I learned a lot about TE terminals when I was... doing... something. I don't remember what. Maybe the LH conversion on the 5-door or something. There are BILLIONS of part numbers and while the major features of them have remained consistent for 30+ years, they have definitely changed a little bit here and there which can make matching confusing. Add in a bunch of critical dimensions, a bunch of custom finishes/coatings … it's a lot. When I did the T5 conversion on the SPG I had it pretty well in hand, but it's a lot to keep in your head longer than necessary. :)

I have a whole inventory of terminals leftover since I bought in bulk from Digikey… I'm not paying eeuroparts $1.50/terminal when they are $0.17ea in lots of 10 or 20! I'm hoping whatever I need I already have, so all I have to do is finding suitable housings.... I was just trying to "preload" by determining what housings were compatible. I'm hoping the answer is most of them, but you can never be too sure. Back in the 900 days it seems whatever terminal/housing combo I needed was only used in one or two places... like the female side of the stereo harness or alarm harness - always a pain!

I want to try and find a 12790106 … which I think is the matching connector for the speaker connector. If that's available from Digikey, it would allow for making speaker adapters!
 

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I want to avoid having to make a splice, and I want to minimize my time under the dashboard. The plan is to extract the two CAN terminals from the H33-5, stick them in a 2-circuit housing, and make a splitter with one leg that connects to a CombiAdapter and the other leg loose pigtails that go back into H33-5. Basically, a 9-3 CAN breakout cable.
What I'm talking about exactly meets your criteria.

Right now there's the connector under the dash, =MF= where M is male connector, F is female connector, and = are wires to connectors.

Go get another =MF= pair from a junkyard car with as much of the leads connected as possible.

Splice them together, M==F. Tap into the Can terminals in the == splice: =|= where the | is the takeoff.

Now go and plug this contraption into the car. It will be =MF=|=MF=

You spend five minutes under the dash, and you don't have to fool around with connector pins. All the wiring is done on the bench.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, that's definitely an option, it's just a lot of extra bulk and human-made connections which I'd prefer to avoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Saab part numbering is very hard to follow here, but I suppose the important bits are the terminals in question are Micro Timer II/III terminals, which are 1.2mm across on the receptacle side, and 1.6mm across on the tab side. Easy to find from Digikey, etc.

Micro Timer connectors are not used very often since they're quite small - my aforementioned guesses are not accurate as those housings are for Junior or Standard. Some places where Micro Timer housings are used on the OG9-3 include the clockspring and the dome light.... they are used more commonly on the 9-3SS and 9-5, but I'm really not familiar enough with those cars to intuit where exactly connectors are. Doesn't matter, the OG9-3 dome light is super easy to get to, so that's where my housings will come from.

The terminals are slightly problematic here … MTII receptacles are generally only rated for up to 18ga wire, and the CAN wiring in 16ga. Inexplicably, the tabs are readily available for 16a. There is a singular part number for 16ga capable receptacles - 1241844. The matching tab is 1241846. Looks like Mouser has both in stock. One thing I have noticed, however, is that most J1939 cable is 18ga or less, so maybe I can get away with smaller wire that Saab used. The folks at trionictuning suggest heavier wire, but I'm not sure what that's based on. TE part numbers for 18ga terminals are 964263 and 964269.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Yeah, the clockspring and dome light connectors are Micro Timer, and most of the car is Junior Power Timer. The 33-pin connector behind the glovebox has BOTH Micro and Junior, but I couldn't tell that from the parts diagrams. Once in my hand, it was easy to measure the terminals and know what they are. The 1.6mm (tab) and 1.2mm (receptacle) terminals are specific to the Micro Timer series.

That's an interesting point about WIS - it could be the insulation and jacket of those CAN wires is just abnormally substantial, but the conductor is much smaller. That would make good sense.

Some other part numbers:

33-pin housing (grey) - male - ECM side = 4173878 (TE #962438)
33-pin housing (grey) - female - chassis side = 4806899 (TE #988254)

3-pin housing (grey) - male - dome light = 4118072 (TE #962342)
3-pin housing (grey) - female - dome light = 4113023 (TE #962343)

3-pin housing (black) - male - dome light = 4113064 (TE #962342)
3-pin housing (black) - female - dome light = 4113015 (TE #962343)

(If you're wondering why the TE part numbers don't vary between grey and black, it's because I only included the core part number... there is a prefix and suffix which describes color and material. If you search the core part number, you'll find these connectors available in a variety of colors.)

Again the TE terminal part numbers for tin-finished Micro Timer II::

1.5mm2 receptacle = 1241844 (reel)
1.5mm2 tab = 1241846 (reel)

1.0mm2 receptacle = 964263 (reel)
1.0mm2 tab = 964269 (reel)

These are (obviously) part numbers for 5000 piece reels, but typically if you search the reel part number you will find folks offer individual pieces or reel cuts. TE does have smaller quantity part numbers, but IME nobody stocks them, so ordering by tape cut using the reel part number is usually the way to go.

Here is the two CAN wires extracted from the 33-pin harness and reinserted into one of the aforementioned dome light housings:



I got enough wire from the junkyard to make one adapter, so all I'm short is some of the TE terminals. Then, make a little Y cable and it's off to the races! Or reflashing...
 

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You might have lost me on the terminal terminology.

I have a T7 ECU connector / harness and I've located that box of stuff... I'll measure the wire to verify and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I think I've got it sorted... all I need is some CAN wire (Waytek, or maybe Amazon), a few Micro Timer tabs & receptacles (Mouser) and to dig out my CombiAdapter so I can remember how I set it up so I know what to plug into it. :)

Edit: I did this!



So I can either make one leg of the Y long enough to terminate into a Minifit connector right into the box, or maybe I will make an intermediate cable so what's left in the car is short.
 

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Thank you! From the specs that makes sense. Saabs method of presenting terminals makes a lot of sense for Saab technicians ordering spare parts, but less so for people trying to do weird things with Saab wiring. :)
I am so glad that I have never made any modifications to my Saabs :oops: :D
Like 9-5 steering wheel to 9000 (with working SWBs) or heated rear seats to 9000 Aero or Airbag system to Saab c900 or...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Solved!

A little wire harvested from a junkyard car, a couple housings from the junkyard, and two $0.17 terminals from Mouser....



And then a little cut, a little solder, a little heat shrink, and some crimp...



Installation is literally just remove two terminals from the factory harness and pop them in a housing. Sadly, I'm pretty sure doing that will cut power to the ECM and reset emissions monitors, but whaddaya gonna do?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Pulled two terminals from the H33 connector and stuck them in dome light housings... easy!



Plugged the H33 back together...



Put pig tail into glove box...



… and then enabled Open SID. Gotta build a couple more of these!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah, probably not a huge reason for most to do this, I just wanted something I could execute quickly and quietly in a restaurant parking lot. :) But, if they do, this is everything needed!
 

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Yeah, it, or something similar, is on my list. I might be back to more parts info on the terminals, but I'll do my share and study first.
 
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