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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am new member of this forum and not good mechanic but I love saab.

I have 95, linear (2002) and one week ago I had a water pump issue and the shop fixed it.

Then 3 days later, saab doesn't start in the garage. It crank but not start.

Error code showed P1312, P1334, P0340 and P0116.
I replaced used Direct Ignition Cassette and NGK Platinum/Spark Plug. But saab doesn't start.
Now three error codes (P1312, P1334, P0340 and P0116) disappeared and P1230 code appeared.
When I turn the key to on, there is some clicking sound around engine. When turned the ignition, engine is trying to start but not start.
Do you think what is the problem, throttle body?
Or do I need to do something after installing DIC?

I will be glad to hear any your suggestion.
Thanks.
 

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Just posted this yesterday in another Thread;

"While driving today my car started acting weird while shifting; then the CEL. Symtoms: Idling speed incorrect, Starting problems, especially when engine is cold Cruise control not working. Plugged in the Torque got code P1230 then P1251; car went into Limp Home Mode. Cleaned TB electrical connection, cleared code, reset LHM; now everything's back to normal"
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thank you for the suggestion and link.
Yes. my car was home limp mode and I reset the limp mode.

However still car doesn't start and clicking after ignition is weaker than before reset the limp mode.

I cleared the error code before limp mode reset and there is no code shown after reset the limp mode.



Is there any suggestion?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When I tries to start, now the engine doesn't crank and start.
I checked the battery voltage which shows 11.55V. Before DIC replacement, it was 12.5V.

So during fixation, the electricity drained?
Or does it relate other problem? RIght now there is no error code after reset limp mode.

I will be glad that you give me any suggestion.
Thanks.
 

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The battery is probably still good; but it would be a good idea to get it checked out or boost it for now and see it will hold the charge after running for awhile. IF YOU BOOST IT USE THE ENGINE HOOK EYE AS YOUR GROUND ON THE 95 NOT THE BATTERY.

I would take the battery out and have it load tested. 9 5 often wont start if the battery is weak even though is still reads ok

When I tries to start, now the engine doesn't crank and start.
I checked the battery voltage which shows 11.55V. Before DIC replacement, it was 12.5V.

So during fixation, the electricity drained?
Or does it relate other problem? RIght now there is no error code after reset limp mode.

I will be glad that you give me any suggestion.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for suggestions.
I did jump start but the engine crank but not started.

There is no error code. ( I am not sure, this is because I erased the code before reset the home limp mode).

I am confused.....
Does it relate with fuel sending system? If that is the case, is there any error code?


Thanks.
 

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Did you clean the electrical connector to the TB? Was the clicking coming from the battery or the TB? Check the fuel pressure at the rail pull of the cap and press the valve. Can you hear the FP when you turn the key? In some cases when this happens the software version in the car needs to be updated. These problems usually start with the throttle position sensor or sensors on the TB cleaning the contact's usually helps; if one of the sensors is bad changing the TB should fix it without the software upgrade. But since it didn't go back in LHM try cleaning the electrical contact usually it's the two bottom pins.


Thank you for suggestions.
I did jump start but the engine crank but not started.

There is no error code. ( I am not sure, this is because I erased the code before reset the home limp mode).

I am confused.....
Does it relate with fuel sending system? If that is the case, is there any error code?


Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Still saab does't start.
When ignition on, clicking sound is from TB.
Also some electrical sound is from fuel pump.
I don't check pressure....

Do you give me any suggestion?

Thanks.
 

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To clean I used a very small wire brush; then I put a small amount of Vaseline on the pins.

I looked at connection to TB.
It looks ok but not sure if it is ok...
How can I clean out the bottom two pins (silver color)?
Thanks.


The clicking sound is from the TB throttle position sensor; check the TB pedal arm (one with the cable) again it may have went back into LHM. Pull on the pedal arm if the Throttle arm (metal arm on the side right below) moves with it, it's in LHM; reset then pull on the PA again the TA shouldn't move, then try and start the car if you still get the clicking from the TB one of the two sensor's is probably bad.


Still saab does't start.
When ignition on, clicking sound is from TB.
Also some electrical sound is from fuel pump.
I don't check pressure....

Do you give me any suggestion?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you, saaber 95er, for the suggestion.
As you said previously, I opened up back seat and checked fuel pump directly.

I could not hear any from the pump when key is on.
There are no error code right now from the reader.
Do you think the problem is likely from the fuel pump?
(I think so)
Is there any suggestion to replace the pump?

I am trying remove the top of the fuel pump but it is very hard to take it out. The lid doesn't turn. Do I need to get pump remover?

Thanks.
 

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You need to do 3 things first:
1. Left up your back seat, reach up and turn the key on. You should hear the fuel pump prime itself when the key ckicks on.
2. Go to motor and lift off the plastic cover around the yellow oil cap. Look for the sliver bar. On that silver bar there is a thing that looks like tire valve. Actually it works the same. Get something small and push in the stem inside the valve. You should get a strong stream of gas. If you dont and you did not hear the fuel pump prime then it is the fuel pump. If you do hear it prime and a strong flow of fuel comes out of the valve then your fuel pump is ok.
3. Take the battery out and get it load tested. Your car wont start if it is weak and only a load test will tell you.
Now do this stuff and report back
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Mike,

Thank you for suggestions.

>1. Left up your back seat, reach up and turn the key on. You should hear the fuel pump prime itself when the key ckicks on.

No sound. I lifted up back seat and reached the fuel pump. There is no sound when key is on. Also looked at fuse. It is ok.

2. I didn't test... I already start to disassemble the fuel pump cover and wires. I have a problem to open the cover...

3. Take the battery out and get it load tested.
The load is already weak(<11.5V). I have done jump start with the other car (>12.6V) but car doesn't start.

I suspect the fuel pump.....am going to order...


Thanks for your suggestion. very helpful.
 

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I just got the p1230 problem yesterday. AutoZone couldn't inform me of the code definition as I believe codes with p1 are manufacturer specific so I've been researching online as garages seems to be closed today.

Anyway, my original assumption (before receiving code) was the DIC went bad as the symptoms seemed to match: entire car would vibrate when idle, random stall outs when car would slow down or idle, etc. However, idle seems to be better without the vibrating when A/C is not turned on upon starting the engine. The car seems to run fine once it's moving. I'm not sure how to tell what limp home mode is to know if it's on or not.

I'm seeing more and more that it's a throttle body issue? If the throttle body needs replaced, is it an easy fix for a novice or should I just have a shop do it? I'm a complete novice but I would like to be able to learn how to troubleshoot and service my car on my own.

I have a longer road trip coming up 3 hours both ways and was wondering if I could get away with driving this distance. I would not go over 65 if I can help it.

I'm newer here as well so if I should start another thread for this then my apologies.
 
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