[octopoculator]

P1110 - BPC Valve Hoses Question

Hello everyone (apologies for the misleading thread title, this is actually about the BPC Valve...)

I've been trying to get to the bottom of a P1110 code in my 2001 9-5 (already replaced BCV on the firewall, the BPC up front and most of the small hoses in the vacuum line), but the issue appears to be a torn hose branching off one of the three BPC hoses – the one that attaches to the plastic barbed T connector and continues left, has a tapered end at the T connector and is held by two spring clips. The tear is where the hose tapers from the larger section to the smaller where it inserts into the T, I've covered it with duct tape, see photo below.

The schematics I'm seeing illustrate the three larger hoses coming off the BPC but I'm having trouble finding what that tapered hose is, and where I can get a replacement. Any insight?

 

[unclemiltie]

That hose is part of the EVAP system and unfortunately it's one of those hard plastic things so that whole segment has to be replaced. I have a spare one somewhere if you want a used one PM me and we can work out a deal.



https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/34873/Evacuation-Pipe-4752382/

 

[octopoculator]

That hose is part of the EVAP system and unfortunately it's one of those hard plastic things so that whole segment has to be replaced. I have a spare one somewhere if you want a used one PM me and we can work out a deal.



https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/34873/Evacuation-Pipe-4752382/

Thanks unclemiltie for the info, that's the one. Appreciate the offer on the used one but I'd rather replace with a new one, need a few other parts from eEuro anyway.

Just curious since the check engine light came back on after replacing the BCV on the firewall – is this hose issue still related to the P1110 code? I don't have a TechII and haven't had the codes read again since replacing these few parts.

 

[unclemiltie]

That hose isn't involved at all in the P1110 code

There are two parts and three hoses involved

1: the turbo bypass valve (a.k.a. hooter valve) on the front of the charge air tube connected to the aluminum tube that runs along the top of the heat shield

2: the bypass control solenoid on the firewall, just above the coolant bypass valve and under the main wiring harness connector with the plastic cover.

The three hoses are

1: the bypass valve to the solenoid, goes to the middle of the solenoid
2: the solenoid to the 2-spot port on the intake manifold, the fuel pressure regulator is on the other port. This goes to the "drivers" side (US) port on the solenoid
3: to the throttle body. this goes to the "passenger" side of the solenoid

If you have one of those hoses wrong or bad you'll throw this code.

 

[damontl1235]

Uh..... this information is great.

This P1110 just happened to me after changing the oil bypass tube and playing inside the air filter.

Thanks for laying out for us what things could cause this code! ;ol;

 

[damontl1235]

Will this code reset itself if I found the issue? I did find a few things, and want to look a little more as to what might be causing it, but the engine light is still on. Do i need to have it reset? The parts store said it was illegal for them to do it, but my mechanic probably could if I stopped by.

 

[unclemiltie]

One of the best things you can invest in with a Saab is a code reader (actually any car)

If you have an Android phone you can get one of those bluetooth dongles that plug into the OBD port and download Torque Lite, there are also some WiFi ones that work with iPhone. Or a cheap scanner from eBay will do the job. $25 and you should be good to go and don't have to go anywhere to get the codes.

 

[horsehockey]

Be sure to check the condition of hose #3 on the back of the throttle body. Mine was split and rotted at the TB nipple.

 

[damontl1235]

That is a great idea! I am going to get one of those itms. I will also check the #3 hose. Thanks for the heads up....

 

[Alej]

You may check out this how to: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=660841

It replaces that hose and the two checkvalves in the evap system that commonly go bad. It can all be replaced for less than $20. I've been running this for months now and it has been perfect!

 

[damontl1235]

Are you refering to the #3 hose with this work around fix? Also, is there any difference from the instructions for performing this on a 2008 model year?

 

[damontl1235]

ok... I had it reset and it is still showing the P1110 error.

I drove about 5 miles since resetting it, and the engine light has not come back on. However, I checked the error code again before resetting it.

Does it mean that if I check the code now that the engine light is not on, that it will not show any longer?

At this time, I just stopped by the garage to have it reset so I do not have to buy the tool quite yet.

 

[Alej]

I missed that yours is a 2008. I think there is one less check valve . I've seen people buy rubber hose to replace the one that is split, then pull the rubber off the hard plastic line, put the hard plastic line in the new rubber hose and put a clamp on it.

 

[horsehockey]

I missed that yours is a 2008. I think there is one less check valve . I've seen people buy rubber hose to replace the one that is split, then pull the rubber off the hard plastic line, put the hard plastic line in the new rubber hose and put a clamp on it.

Great idea - thanks!

 

[damontl1235]

Thanks for the info... if I need to replace that #3 hose I will surely see if this option would work....

So, am I understanding the the #3 hose already is rubber over hard plastic?

 

[horsehockey]

Thanks for the info... if I need to replace that #3 hose I will surely see if this option would work....

So, am I understanding the the #3 hose already is rubber over hard plastic?

Yes. The hard line stops an inch or two prior to the end, allowing room to insert it onto the nipple on the throttle body. If that soft part of the line rots, splits and then leaks....and you cut the damaged end off...you no longer have enough unlined hose to fit over the nipple.

 

[brewtide]

That hose isn't involved at all in the P1110 code

There are two parts and three hoses involved

1: the turbo bypass valve (a.k.a. hooter valve) on the front of the charge air tube connected to the aluminum tube that runs along the top of the heat shield

2: the bypass control solenoid on the firewall, just above the coolant bypass valve and under the main wiring harness connector with the plastic cover.

The three hoses are

1: the bypass valve to the solenoid, goes to the middle of the solenoid
2: the solenoid to the 2-spot port on the intake manifold, the fuel pressure regulator is on the other port. This goes to the "drivers" side (US) port on the solenoid
3: to the throttle body. this goes to the "passenger" side of the solenoid

If you have one of those hoses wrong or bad you'll throw this code.

A bit aside, but you know your stuff.

After pulling my motor and trans the other weekend, I broke this exact location of the EVAP line myself. I've already had the boost-whatever-selenoid removed from the car forever (thus, the code) so I have a line from TB to BPV, and mild 'honking' at the vac/boost threshold.

Prior to this breaking, I've always removed the 'r' line from the BPC and bolted it - I've read of ups and downs to this, downs being perhaps a bit later spool, and ups being better boost response if check valves down the line are 'iffy'.

Since the last swap, and that hard line / line shrink union (why does saab do this? see heater core host off head -- no, you can't cut it back, because the hose FLARES!) , I just removed the aspects leading to the BPC and the inlet on the intake pipe, jabbed some hose onto the broken 'hard line' aspect of the EVAP line, and attached that directly to the intake itself. so it is EVAP -> intake pipe, bypassing all else.

Yet to throw an evap code -- functionally the same as bolting it?

Appreciated,
Benjamin
(yet to check the VIN of auto or manual, btw, but will!)