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Discussion Starter #1
My 2003 9-3 Linear started having a solid check engine light yesterday. I hooked up the scanner and got a P0507 Idle Control System error. Interestingly, I had noticed that the idle was higher than usual the day before the code. When it threw the code, however, the idle was normal and has been ever since the code. I did erase the code, but it came back again this morning.

I searched for this code on this forum, but surprisingly didn't see any mention of it.

Thanks to anyone who has seen this code or can tell me what to look for.
-Brian
 

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Don't know what throws this code on SAAB but quoting Autodata:
Fault location: Idle speed control (ISC) system- rpm higher than expected
Probable cause: wiring, ISC actuator/IAC valve, throttle motor, throttle valve tight/sticking, ECM

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the possible problems. Looks like a trip to the dealer is in the cards.

It still seems strange that no other 9-3 SS owners have had this problem. There's always a first, I guess, but it seems like (at least most of the time) when there's a problem with our cars, it shows up in spades (suspension noise, window regulator, fading door handles, etc.).
 

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WIS suggests air leak after throttle or blocked throttle when you see that code. I would check for vacuum leak at evap line plumbing near dipstick. Also inspect SAI check valve since you have a 2003. Guide for check valve inspection is in the FAQ.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Home run, ctrlz! There's a crack in the small tube just to the right of the dipstick (I drew a right line to show it). It sits at an awkward angle, so it's no wonder it broke. The odd thing is that about two inches below the crack is a pinch connector that suggests to me that two hoses join here. Unfortunately, it's a bear to get at with big hands, so I'm not sure what to do yet.

Would there be an issue with disconnecting the hose further down the line, say at the blue valve at the far left of the pic?

Thanks!
-Brian
 

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Same thing happend to me about 8 months ago. Just take off the engine cover so you have easier access. Go to an autoparts store and see if they have 4mm diameter vacuum hose that is 6-7 inch in length. Take the top and bottom screw clamps off. Remove the old hose and install the new. If you have a scanner remove the code other wise remove the negative battery terminal to clear the code. Leave it off for about 5 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Xeo01,
The only thing that still seems strange is that there's a clamp just above where mine cracked, and then just a couple inches below that one. Did you replace the whole hose (from the blue valve back to where mine cracked), or did you just replace the short section?

I do have a scanner, so once I replace the hose, I should be set.
-Brian
 

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I just replaced the short section. I wanted to give it extra play so it doesn't crack again. I think the short section was like 2-3 inches. I went out and measured my replaced vacuum tube and it was 6 inches.
 

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Schteel Gray said:
Would there be an issue with disconnecting the hose further down the line, say at the blue valve at the far left of the pic?

Thanks!
-Brian
You can replace with a longer hose. If you disconnect any check valves, just make sure they're pointed in the right direction when you reinstall.

Better yet, take a bunch of digital photos and mark the valves before you remove anything. I think in 2003's there are two check valves in the EVAP plumbing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all your helpful replies. I'll stop tonight to pick up a hose.

I love digital cameras for car work. They're so much better than my own (faulty) memory!
-Brian
 
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