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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, you guys have helped me in the past, hope you can help me now. I have an '04 9-3 linear w/100k on it.
Crack open a beer cuz this is a long one. So, a few weeks ago car started overheating, did a little inspecting and heard a weird grumbling noise at the water pump, sounded like the bearing. Got a new pump, started to tear everything down. Got the access cover off the pump, noticed I was able to spin the sprocket. Got the timing cover off, low and behold the balance chain snapped. Got a new chain, guides, bolts, timing chain guides and bolts, all necessary gaskets etc... Before removing timing chain I marked everything at tdc as I usually do when doing timing chain/belt work. Put everything together, lined up all the balance chain markers on the chain and sprockets. Got the timing chain on, markings all lined up. Cleaned and reset the tensioner, and yes I used the special cam tool for my engine from eeuroparts, the blue ones. Also was following everything according to WIS to be safe. Timing all set. Did the water pump also while I was in there. Didn't have to remove the cat thank god. Got everything put back together, torqued everything properly. Replaced the belt and tensioner pulley also. Everything looks good. Changed the oil, started her up. Sounded funny at first but not unusual after doing a timing chain. Ran nice and smooth soon after, let her idle for a bit then noticed the engine started loping a little bit and the lights and dash lights were dimming with the engine lope. Then a few minutes later p0300 pops up. Had battery and alternator tested, because I've seen similar symptoms with a bad alternator, all good. Decided to change the plugs (yes the correct ngk plugs) and coils (yes the correct saab mitsubishi coils from advance auto), still had the original yellow coils so felt it was due anyway. No change, checked fuel pressure, held at around 44psi. Checked pressure regulator according to Wis, all good. Checked compression in all cylinders,180psi across the board. Checked all vacuum lines, all good. Did a power balance test, idle changed the same on all 4 cyl. Did evap leak test with tech 2, passed. Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner. Checked for cracks in the air intake tube, solid. Pulled MAF while engine running, engine cuts out, good. Pulled connectors on every sensor one by one with engine running. All sensors seem fine. Upgraded the ECM with my tech 2, no change. I did notice that cylinders 3 and 4 have just about triple the amount of misfires than cylinders 1 and 2, and clyinders 1 and 2 have double the amount of knocks as 3 and 4. Sprayed some starter fluid around the intake to check for leaks, no change in idle. Am I missing something here? Any help would be much appreciated.

Oh,and it runs fine no misfires at all according to the tech 2 connected while driving, and when I get to a stop light it idles smooth but acts up after about 10-15 seconds at a stop.
Thanks again,
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #4
total multiplicative fuel correction: -5.96% to 0.46% stayed more toward -4% but fluctuated quite a bit
airmass deviation from calculated: -15.34% to -9.4% stayed more toward -10-12% again fluctuated a bit
additive fuel adaptation: -0.28 mg/comb(steady)
I also grabbed a snapshot of all values if needed.
 

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air leak, check the hose between air filter and turbo, remove it and check it visually.. make sure u didnt leave anything else disconnected.
if unable to find it visually, then you will need a smoker ..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hmm I checked that but I will check again tomorrow, everything else is definitely connected. Checked everything a few times thinking I will need to smoke it. Thanks Hus_sho!
 

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check brake booster vacuum line that runs by oil filter. has a checkvalve on it
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did, was able to blow air through it towards the vacuum pump, could not blow air through it towards the booster. Checked all lines with check valves, all work as they should. Also tested the brake booster, all good. The ionization module did take a tumble, only off a little step stool about 3' could that cause all this,any way to test it? Took it off when i was doing the water pump, easier to get to the t-stat.
 

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Does it matter if engine is warm or not?
 

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To be honest I think the blue ones could be wrong. Did they look correct?

 

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Discussion Starter #12
yes they are correct, I have VIN S and every place that sells or rents the tool says blue is for VIN S. They looked and fit correct.
 

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Might be time for a leakdown test. No odd smoke or anything? Do you have a boroscope to look in the cylinders? Tech2 ONLY shows P0300?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Was thinkin about doing a leak down test, mine broke a while back haven't had need for one since, guess i'll get a new one and test it. No smoke or anything. Don't have a boroscope, but the guy i'm helping restore a 38 caddy might, i'll ask him tomorrow. Tech 2 shows some other codes but they are for the 2 side markers on each side of the front bumper and the 2 little bulbs in the headlight assembly nearest to the front grill. They haven't worked since I purchased the car 11yrs ago, didn't even realize they were there until a couple years ago haha.
 

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The blue ones i think correct..
I would exclude timing error or leak down, as the engine runs normal at stages ! These cant be intermittent ..

from the fuel/air deviation its very obvious u have a big air leak, i would test the whole system by somke ..

if u want to recheck timing, why not, set the crank to time, remove the valve cover, remove the cam caps (the ones at the front end of both cams) install the timing tool by hand (make sure the arrow points to the front of the engine) the tools should set flush ..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I rechecked the timing a week after this all started. Found there was a tiny bit of slack in between the cams after reinstalling the tool. Made a few adustments, but didn't change anything, still ran exactly the same. Compression is good, so don't think it's a bent or stuck valve. I will triple check all air and vacuum lines when i get some time. If I don't find anything then smoke time, if that doesn't show anything, leak down test will be next. Thanks guys!
 

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Leak-down test is a supporting procedure only performed if low compression was evident.. without low compression, leak-down test is not required
 
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