Hello, you guys have helped me in the past, hope you can help me now. I have an '04 9-3 linear w/100k on it.
Crack open a beer cuz this is a long one. So, a few weeks ago car started overheating, did a little inspecting and heard a weird grumbling noise at the water pump, sounded like the bearing. Got a new pump, started to tear everything down. Got the access cover off the pump, noticed I was able to spin the sprocket. Got the timing cover off, low and behold the balance chain snapped. Got a new chain, guides, bolts, timing chain guides and bolts, all necessary gaskets etc... Before removing timing chain I marked everything at tdc as I usually do when doing timing chain/belt work. Put everything together, lined up all the balance chain markers on the chain and sprockets. Got the timing chain on, markings all lined up. Cleaned and reset the tensioner, and yes I used the special cam tool for my engine from eeuroparts, the blue ones. Also was following everything according to WIS to be safe. Timing all set. Did the water pump also while I was in there. Didn't have to remove the cat thank god. Got everything put back together, torqued everything properly. Replaced the belt and tensioner pulley also. Everything looks good. Changed the oil, started her up. Sounded funny at first but not unusual after doing a timing chain. Ran nice and smooth soon after, let her idle for a bit then noticed the engine started loping a little bit and the lights and dash lights were dimming with the engine lope. Then a few minutes later p0300 pops up. Had battery and alternator tested, because I've seen similar symptoms with a bad alternator, all good. Decided to change the plugs (yes the correct ngk plugs) and coils (yes the correct saab mitsubishi coils from advance auto), still had the original yellow coils so felt it was due anyway. No change, checked fuel pressure, held at around 44psi. Checked pressure regulator according to Wis, all good. Checked compression in all cylinders,180psi across the board. Checked all vacuum lines, all good. Did a power balance test, idle changed the same on all 4 cyl. Did evap leak test with tech 2, passed. Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner. Checked for cracks in the air intake tube, solid. Pulled MAF while engine running, engine cuts out, good. Pulled connectors on every sensor one by one with engine running. All sensors seem fine. Upgraded the ECM with my tech 2, no change. I did notice that cylinders 3 and 4 have just about triple the amount of misfires than cylinders 1 and 2, and clyinders 1 and 2 have double the amount of knocks as 3 and 4. Sprayed some starter fluid around the intake to check for leaks, no change in idle. Am I missing something here? Any help would be much appreciated.
Oh,and it runs fine no misfires at all according to the tech 2 connected while driving, and when I get to a stop light it idles smooth but acts up after about 10-15 seconds at a stop.
Thanks again,
Joe
Crack open a beer cuz this is a long one. So, a few weeks ago car started overheating, did a little inspecting and heard a weird grumbling noise at the water pump, sounded like the bearing. Got a new pump, started to tear everything down. Got the access cover off the pump, noticed I was able to spin the sprocket. Got the timing cover off, low and behold the balance chain snapped. Got a new chain, guides, bolts, timing chain guides and bolts, all necessary gaskets etc... Before removing timing chain I marked everything at tdc as I usually do when doing timing chain/belt work. Put everything together, lined up all the balance chain markers on the chain and sprockets. Got the timing chain on, markings all lined up. Cleaned and reset the tensioner, and yes I used the special cam tool for my engine from eeuroparts, the blue ones. Also was following everything according to WIS to be safe. Timing all set. Did the water pump also while I was in there. Didn't have to remove the cat thank god. Got everything put back together, torqued everything properly. Replaced the belt and tensioner pulley also. Everything looks good. Changed the oil, started her up. Sounded funny at first but not unusual after doing a timing chain. Ran nice and smooth soon after, let her idle for a bit then noticed the engine started loping a little bit and the lights and dash lights were dimming with the engine lope. Then a few minutes later p0300 pops up. Had battery and alternator tested, because I've seen similar symptoms with a bad alternator, all good. Decided to change the plugs (yes the correct ngk plugs) and coils (yes the correct saab mitsubishi coils from advance auto), still had the original yellow coils so felt it was due anyway. No change, checked fuel pressure, held at around 44psi. Checked pressure regulator according to Wis, all good. Checked compression in all cylinders,180psi across the board. Checked all vacuum lines, all good. Did a power balance test, idle changed the same on all 4 cyl. Did evap leak test with tech 2, passed. Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner. Checked for cracks in the air intake tube, solid. Pulled MAF while engine running, engine cuts out, good. Pulled connectors on every sensor one by one with engine running. All sensors seem fine. Upgraded the ECM with my tech 2, no change. I did notice that cylinders 3 and 4 have just about triple the amount of misfires than cylinders 1 and 2, and clyinders 1 and 2 have double the amount of knocks as 3 and 4. Sprayed some starter fluid around the intake to check for leaks, no change in idle. Am I missing something here? Any help would be much appreciated.
Oh,and it runs fine no misfires at all according to the tech 2 connected while driving, and when I get to a stop light it idles smooth but acts up after about 10-15 seconds at a stop.
Thanks again,
Joe
