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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all.

I have what looks to be the rare-ish (only 3 other threads about it on the forum)

P0201 P0202 P0203 P0204 P0245 P0246

codes on my 2007 9-3 Linear (FYI, I also have a 2004 Arc).

It will will run fine occasionally, then go into a rough limp-home kind of mode.

I've read that the cause of this combination of codes is usually NOT the Turbo Boost Pressure Control Valve Solenoid (P0245, P0246) itself, and that the injector codes are normally a symptom and not the actual issue/cause.

Rather, it is an ECU going bad.

So a couple of questions:

1. Should I replace the Turbo wastegate solenoid anyhow to see if I am lucky and that's the issue (and where exactly is the wastegate solenoid);

2. What about the grounding points? Folks talk about those as a source of a lot of electrical problems; can someone point me to where the major grounding points are so I can inspect/clean them;

3. Where exactly is the ECU? Is it the electronic box on the bracket under the engine cover and over the injectors? Is it the electronics mounted on the side of the battery box (I think this might be the transmission brain?); is it the electronics box mounted on the firewall under/behind the glovebox? is it somewhere else?

Finally, what are the "rules" about ECU compatibility? I've seen posts where folks have used the ECU from a different 9-3 submodel and year with no problem, and other posts that are very prescriptive and insist the ECU is submodel-year specific. We have a great boneyard here in Central texas with over 20 9-3 carcasses of various vintages. And what should I pay for a used ECU?

Finally2, how would you suggest I go about finding someone with a Tech2 here in Austin that would do the ECU mating/matching for me "reasonably". The Saab whisperer I used here in Austin died lat year (great guy, died while doing what he loved, under a Saab), and the one "Swedish" indie in town has a reputation of being overpriced (which I can validate with my one datapoint: he charged me almost $1,000 13 years ago to install a $50 junkyard cooling fan on an old 900 SE I had; I have been doing all of my own work since).

In advance, thanks for the help.
 

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it's the ECU. Save yourself headaches and get one from exact same car (trim, tranny, year).

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks as always Digg.

It looks like finding a used ECU won't be the problem, but programming will.

The only mechanic I trusted here in Austin passed away last year, so I need to find someone with a Tech-2 device.

Is a Tech-2 specific to Saab or is it a more generic testing/programming device.

Should I go to Cadillac dealership? They just replaced the airbag in that car as a recall, so they must have the tools, right? Is it possible that the codes throwing/ECU failing (assumed) and the airbag recall work are not coincidental?
 

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Tech2 is GM specific. I believe Caddy does or did use it too. The dealer might have the software but I'd ask them first. Some Caddy dealers were former Saab dealers so may still work on Saabs and have kept their licenses. Doubt the airbag recall and this issue are related.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for that insight on the Tech2.

I "bit the bullet" and called our Swedish shop. New ownership, will program new ECU for $125, so now just gotta get the ECU.

Plenty of used ECUs on eBay with the exact model number (55565020): any advice on picking the best one at a reasonable price?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Before I replace the ECU, thought I would take a shot at the grounds.

Is there a definitive sticky or other thread that documents all the ground points on the car.

I understand that there is a very important (the most important?) ground point right under the battery box (is this right?) as well as a ground strap that goes from the body-to-transmission (presumably on the driver side in a LHD configured car). Any others that I need to inspect/clean up?
 

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Hey, before replacing the ECM, do these preliminary checks, pull up one of the injector connectors or boost valve connector (what ever easier for u ) turn iginition ON, one side of the connector should have a fixed 12v power, use a test light connected to the ground, if u got power, then its probbably the ECU , but i can help u doing further testing if u intrested .. good luck
 

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Hi all.

I have what looks to be the rare-ish (only 3 other threads about it on the forum)

P0201 P0202 P0203 P0204 P0245 P0246

codes on my 2007 9-3 Linear (FYI, I also have a 2004 Arc).

It will will run fine occasionally, then go into a rough limp-home kind of mode.

I've read that the cause of this combination of codes is usually NOT the Turbo Boost Pressure Control Valve Solenoid (P0245, P0246) itself, and that the injector codes are normally a symptom and not the actual issue/cause.

BTW the symptoms of my car are different, it's intermittent, sometimes I get trouble starting or no start from gas flooding, once it starts I can smell gasoline for a few moments and then it goes away and drives mostly normal but with decreased mileage, I suspect this condition will ruin my cat converter so I'm trying to fix relatively quick.

When my car won't start I disconnect the battery for 10-15 minutes and it starts again.

Rather, it is an ECU going bad.

So a couple of questions:

1. Should I replace the Turbo wastegate solenoid anyhow to see if I am lucky and that's the issue (and where exactly is the wastegate solenoid);

2. What about the grounding points? Folks talk about those as a source of a lot of electrical problems; can someone point me to where the major grounding points are so I can inspect/clean them;

3. Where exactly is the ECU? Is it the electronic box on the bracket under the engine cover and over the injectors? Is it the electronics mounted on the side of the battery box (I think this might be the transmission brain?); is it the electronics box mounted on the firewall under/behind the glovebox? is it somewhere else?

Finally, what are the "rules" about ECU compatibility? I've seen posts where folks have used the ECU from a different 9-3 submodel and year with no problem, and other posts that are very prescriptive and insist the ECU is submodel-year specific. We have a great boneyard here in Central texas with over 20 9-3 carcasses of various vintages. And what should I pay for a used ECU?

Finally2, how would you suggest I go about finding someone with a Tech2 here in Austin that would do the ECU mating/matching for me "reasonably". The Saab whisperer I used here in Austin died lat year (great guy, died while doing what he loved, under a Saab), and the one "Swedish" indie in town has a reputation of being overpriced (which I can validate with my one datapoint: he charged me almost $1,000 13 years ago to install a $50 junkyard cooling fan on an old 900 SE I had; I have been doing all of my own work since).

In advance, thanks for the help.
I'm getting the same codes, I think the problem is the ECU.

I just ordered a used ECU from ebay, and bought a clone Tech2. I'm going through the curve of learning and setting up the whole thing, there is a lot of info available

So far I flashed the PCMCIA card the vendor sent me (I ordered a SAAB card, but they sent me a generic GM) got TIS2000 and GlobalTIS working on an old XP laptop and all devices are communicating (Tech2-CANdi-ECU-laptop)

I'm thinking of flashing a new BIN to my ECU and see if it works better, but if the real cause are failing components inside the ECU it probably won't do any good
 

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Be aware. That TECH2 does not program used ECUs , at least the ones that they were not divorced from the previous car.
Make sure ur battery is good, or better connect a stable battery maintainer, dont leave the laptop on battery only, and even connect tech2 to an external power source .
Good luck
 

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I don't think that divorcing process is a thing anymore... You should be able to repurpose used ECMs just fine with Tech 2. Change VIN, remove, change VIN add. Done.
 

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Hi everyone - I had the same problem a couple months ago... Same engine codes, occasionally wouldn't start, occasional misfires, etc. Shop insisted on a new ECU so we put a brand new ECU in it. That only worked for about a week and then the same codes came back. Car would always start and run fine but the CEL was usually on. Then yesterday it wouldn't start. All the same symptoms as before the ECU replacement. Finally got it to start after letting it sit for 4 hours.

Has anyone found any solutions other than replacing the ECU?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
As I started this thread nine-ish months ago, and as it it is still a live thread, thought I should give an update.

Got a used ECU matching the exact model number as mine off of eBay, took it to Saab shop to program it ($125 to program, $250 if they installed it, but they let me do it myself in the shop lot, so only cost me $125), and now nine-ish months later no problems.

So ECU swap-out fixed my issue.

Sorry for not providing this update sooner.
 

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Same codes, lots of issues

My 07 9-3 2.0t has had the ECU fixed 3 times now. Always the turbo control chip and fuel injector control chips blown. My A/C has stopped working, I still have coolant low warning (replaced bottle, new sensor), driver side marker light warning (works fine), and rear fog light warning (works fine). I have replaced the timing chain, guides, and gears, turbo control solenoid, new turbo, turbo oil and coolant lines, all coil packs (correct ones), plugs (correct ones), and Ionic module. The car will run great after getting ECU fixed for about 2 days, then all the ECU codes for injectors and turbo solenoid come back, car shifts hard again. I just bought a new wiring harness, but want to hear your thoughts on other causes. I am at point where I think the ECU PCB is bad, and will need a completely new ECU with new mating. The people who have been repairing my ECU say to check the injectors, and turbo solenoid, they think that is the issue. I replaced the solenoid already, so could injectors be causing the chips to blow? Or, is the wiring bad? Or, ECU circuit board toast? HELP???
 

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Ofcourse a shorted injector ir wires can easily destroy the injectors drivers, but its easy enough to check for short before replacing anything.
However never seen it once on the 93s, and its always the ECU, just replace it with a good used one
 

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How do you check the injectors to make sure they are good? What pins on the ECU connector (which one also) go to the injectors or harness? Are you speaking of continuity and meg check?
 

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Thank you for that! I have searched a long time for any info on this, specifically schematics or pinouts. Now, if all the injectors read good, you agree that the ECU is most likely damaged somehow and causing the blown chips? I failed to mention that the A/C has not worked again even after the repaired ECU. He told me that it would test good in his simulator but most likely not fix that issue. If I can find a way to disconnect the injector harness from the main harness I will meg it to look for leakage. Also, which pin on the injector is #1 and #2?
 
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