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Discussion Starter #1
Of course this happens as the car is being driven to the inspection station.

Had the MIL light up last week. Threw a code P0134, bank 1 sensor 1. I've read around here and see that sometimes there is a wiring fault, but I'm going to try swapping out the sensor first since the car has 196,000 on the clock and I know the sensors have at the very least 95,000 on them (I bought it with 101k).

Little unsure of which sensor to purchase though, I believe its the front or upstream sensor that generates this code, correct? If it were the rear sensor it would be throwing a 136, right?

So if thats correct that means I need a Bosch 16174 O2 sensor. And a 22mm O2 sensor socket of course.

Can anyone please confirm this for me? Don't want to find out I got the wrong sensor while I'm under the car if I can help it.
 

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yes it is the front o2 sensor. Don't be surprised if that does not fix the problem. I have been reading/repairing for a year and everything I try from wiring to cleaning only fixes it for a short time. I clean connectors, add ground wires to the front o2 sensor which fixes for two to three months. I rewired the ground wire from before the front o2 sensor connector directly to after the sensor connector. P0134 goes away and then p0131 appears.
I have been told the wires in this circuit are aluminum and can't be soldered effectively so I removed the solder and put on high quality crimp connectors.
I have an OBD wiz computer scanner so I can read real time o2 readings while the car is running. 99% of the time the sensors are behaving perfectly. They loose voltage for an instant, sets a code and I have to start all over.
My car has 135K on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK, so the MIL went away for about a week, during which time of course I was unable to get to an inspection station. Came back on today...I'm more inclined to think this is a wiring issue at this point.

I've seen some older posts on other forums as well as here that have me leaning towards running a jumper wire between pin 3 on the front O2 sensor connector and pin 3 on the rear O2 sensor connector. These two lines merge at the J16 connector on the ECU, but rather than digging out the J16 connector and splicing it there, others have had success simply jumpering the sensors to each other. I'll be trying this in the next few days myself and see if the code goes away. I've pasted the original item I found below so someone else may find it useful...not entirely sure what the author means by the female plug on the front o2 sensor though, is that located on the sensor plug brick under the hood or near the sensor itself? I'm thinking it must be near the sensor since he's saying it'll take 2 feet of wire.

the code p0134 refers to no activity from the front 02 sensor.The sensor may indeed have failed, There are known issues with the wiring for the sensors.Wires from pin3 of the front and rear 02 sensors are connected at j16.From j16 a single wire goes to pin 58 at the ecu connector. There have been problems at this connection.J 16 is located left, north american passenger, side aprox. 20 mm from the cable tie on the ecu connector.I would suggest adding a jumper from the front 02 sensor female plug, the side that is the vehicle wiring harness pin 3 to pin three of the rear 02 female plug. The rear sensor is not throwing codes so it's connection may be good. Two feet of 22 awg wire and 20 minutes of time may cure the fault. If you have a ohm meter you can check for continuity between both #3 pins first. Give the wires a firm tug and twist to see if there is a bad connection at j16. Hope this gives you some ideas cheers
 

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I soldered a wire across the gray and blue wires at the o2 connectors near the brake booster. It held only for a month (no P0134 or P0131 code)-the harness wires are aluminum and shouldn't be soldered.
I found a wire harness at a wrecking yard and dissected the J 16 junction - both the gray wire and blue wire connect via a crimp before they attach to the black wire going into the ECU.
I have yet to recrimp this connector, I believe it will be a better solution than removing this junction and soldering on aluminum wires.
Most of the screen shots I have of the code sets are when the car is warming up. It appears that the o2 sensor heater has turned off before the o2 sensor is hot enough to give a good voltage so it drops to zero volts thus setting the code.
 

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Just for more information I carefully opened the J16 junction, recrimped the existing wire crimp connector, added another crimp connector over the existing one, taped everything well and it is fixed including a new smog cert! No more P0134 or P0131.
If you would like more info let me know.
 

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I opened the J16 junction at the PCM connector which is under the windshield cowl.

Remove negative battery terminal first. Remove wipers (mine were stuck on, I had to purchase a wiper removal tool) then remove the cowl. The computer connector is on the right (passenger) side of the car which is easy to find. When you remove the 4 nuts (10 MM socket) holding the wire loom to the computer you then lift up the cover. You then have to gently pull the cover and protective rubber hose back towards the engine to expose the wires you will be working on. You will see the top of the computer with all the wires. There is a latch to disconnect the harness, unlatch the harness and then you have to "dig" to find the J16 junction- blue and grey wire going into black insulation which has a black wire coming out to the computer.
I then carefully removed all the black insulation and glue surrounding the wires and metal connector using a single edge razor blade and alot of patience.
Once the metal connector was exposed I recrimped it using a wire crimping tool. I then took a "blue" wire connector (from Autozone) and removed the blue outer covering, pushed a nail through it lengthwise to "open" the connector so it would fit over the previously crimped connector on the car. I crimped that in place, taped everything well-reassembled everything. All is good. Total time 1 hour. I will take a picture of the extra piece of J16 junction I have when I get home tonight and post. It will be late for you as I am in LA.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Took me forever to get around to it, but I finally dug in to this last weekend. Took about an hour, hour and a half maybe. Hardest part was getting the driver's side wiper arm off, its been stuck on there hard for awhile.

As soon as I got the cover off the ECU and I lifted the wiring harness connector I was able to see the problem clearly, the grey wire had its insulation stripped right off and the copper strands were frayed inside, which must be the cause of the intermittent ground contact throwing the CEL. I snipped that section out along with the blue wire and crimped them to the black wire with the blue barrel connector. Gave everything a good hard tug and made sure the ECU connector lever wasn't touching any of the wires when I put it all back together.

Test drove t, no noticeable difference of course, but it was nice to drive with the CEL lit, even for a little while...naturally it came back on, but when I checked the codes later that day I noticed it a different code...got a P1110 this time, so it looks like its time to swap out some vacuum hoses.

Thanks again.
 

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It is a satisfying fix. I have over 750 miles since my last repair with many many multiple starts and no CEL! I gave up trying to get my wiper arm off w/o tools and bought the wiper arm removal tool-worked great.

Sounds like a hose to a BOV is where I would start looking for a P1110.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, I picked up an autozone wiper arm puller for $10 and promptly bent it within a few minutes of taking it out of the package. Picked up a nice heavy one thats more like a pulley removal tool and bent the flimly metal arm you use to tighten the screw (like the handle on a vice). I had to cut that off and then I used a screwdriver to finish the job. Of course I had to unbolt the hood in order to get the thing onto the wiper in the first place too!

But its all done now and on to the next CEL.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
While I neglected to take any photos, I googled these and maybe it'll help.

Basically when you pop the cover off the ECU, you'll see the grey and blue wires right on top, on mine the grey wire was frayed and the damage was obvious. Both wires disappear into the shrink wrap and are connected to the black wire. Snip out the damaged section and recrimp the wires and you should be good to go.
 

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Just for more information I carefully opened the J16 junction, recrimped the existing wire crimp connector, added another crimp connector over the existing one, taped everything well and it is fixed including a new smog cert! No more P0134 or P0131.
If you would like more info let me know.
Where is this junction 16 located on the 02sensor ?
 

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Took me forever to get around to it, but I finally dug in to this last weekend. Took about an hour, hour and a half maybe. Hardest part was getting the driver's side wiper arm off, its been stuck on there hard for awhile.

As soon as I got the cover off the ECU and I lifted the wiring harness connector I was able to see the problem clearly, the grey wire had its insulation stripped right off and the copper strands were frayed inside, which must be the cause of the intermittent ground contact throwing the CEL. I snipped that section out along with the blue wire and crimped them to the black wire with the blue barrel connector. Gave everything a good hard tug and made sure the ECU connector lever wasn't touching any of the wires when I put it all back together.

Test drove t, no noticeable difference of course, but it was nice to drive with the CEL lit, even for a little while...naturally it came back on, but when I checked the codes later that day I noticed it a different code...got a P1110 this time, so it looks like its time to swap out some vacuum hoses.

Thanks again.
you really should have soldered it.
 
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