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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Figures, i have the car in my possesion for 30 min and i get three friggin faults.

P0123
O2 sensor
Circuit high voltage
Bank 1 Sensor 1

I do not understand this one. there where 2 other threads about this and they talked about throttle posistion.
what would cause high voltage???

P0125
Closed loop fuel control
Insufficent coolant temp

The closed loop would be from the O2 sensor.
but what about the coolant???
it was low when i bought it but i topped her up and she ran in the normal zone...

P1171
Manufacture control
Fuel air metering

What is a manufacture control?
F/A metering is also decided by the O2 sensor.

So i am thinking i just have to replace the sensor.
thats no big deal i can use the one off my '96.

My main concern is the coolant code.

Also, a bad O2 would cause rough / high idle right???
not safe to drive? :nono;
 

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TROLLhattenschatten said:
P0123
O2 sensor
Circuit high voltage
Bank 1 Sensor 1

I do not understand this one. there where 2 other threads about this and they talked about throttle posistion.
what would cause high voltage???
P0123 is not the oxygen sensor, P0123 = TPS/Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit High Input

TROLLhattenschatten said:
P0125
Closed loop fuel control
Insufficent coolant temp

The closed loop would be from the O2 sensor.
but what about the coolant???
it was low when i bought it but i topped her up and she ran in the normal zone...
P0125 = Closed Loop Fuel Control, Insuficient Coolant Temperature. Maybe the coolant temperature sensor is faulty

TROLLhattenschatten said:
P1171
Manufacture control
Fuel air metering

What is a manufacture control?
F/A metering is also decided by the O2 sensor.
P1xxx is a manufacturer specific code, meaning it is a code assigned by saab for a specific system. This code designation can change from manufacturer to manufacturer; Saab's P1171 and Ford's P1171 may not be the same code for the same system.

P0xxx codes are generic codes, are the same between all manufacturers.

For Saab, P1171 = Closed Loop, Lean Mixture
 

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My main concern is the coolant code.

Possibly an engine coolent temp sensor. When these go bad, you usually can't start the car in very cold weather, the computer thinks that the car is all warmed up, when in fact the engine is ice cold.... crank, no start.

Also, a bad O2 would cause rough / high idle right???
not safe to drive? :nono;

A bad o2 will cause the vehicle to run "rich" but that is all. You will get poor mpg, but it will "drive" and "idle" fine.
 

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P0123 is a Throttle Position Sensor code. The TPS can usually be checked with an ohm meter.
P0132 is the O2 sensor code
(pick one or the other, :cheesy: )

P0125 seems to mean the engine is taking too long to warm up, and running cold. Since the engine has two temp sensors, one for the instrument panel gauge and one for the engine ECU, that can be tested too. Does the instrument panel gauge go to 9 o'clock within a few minutes after start?

P1171 is probably a consequence of the other faults, the engine is running lean, most likely because the ecu can't control the fuel without proper input from the TPS and the engine temp sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I am sorry, i worked a 14 hour day yesterday and it really screwed me up.
the correct code is P0132.
i guess i saw the numbers and my mind put them in correct order :roll:

The temprature gauge works.
not too long to warm up, it is very cold here today.

I will have the O2 sensor replaced.
how do i know which one it is??
sensor 1 bank 1?????

I found a coolant leak, for some reason there was no clamp on the lower coolant hose that comes from the tank.
the car starts great in the cold.
could this be P0125?
 

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Trollhatten : I will have the O2 sensor replaced. Why ?
how do i know which one it is??
sensor 1 bank 1?????

Sensor one is the first one( very close to the oil filter). The second one , at the end of the catalytic converter, monitors the performance of the unit, all in the interest of nigh zero emissions..
Bank one is cylinders 1 thru 4 on a V8 engine.. means nothing to us, but then there is the V6.....
 

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earthworm said:
Bank one is cylinders 1 thru 4 on a V8 engine.. means nothing to us, but then there is the V6.....
A better explaination is: Bank 1 is what ever side Cylinder 1 is on. If its a I4 engine, then you only have one bank. If its an H4 or Flat-4 engine, a V6, V10, V12, its the side that cylinder 1 is on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay, the sensor is being replaced on tuesday.
i think i got a good deal $250 for labor and the part.

The coolant leak - i am gonna buy the clamp tomorrow.
 

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TROLLhattenschatten said:
Okay, the sensor is being replaced on tuesday.
i think i got a good deal $250 for labor and the part.

The coolant leak - i am gonna buy the clamp tomorrow.
Wow, $250 seems very very high for an O2 sensor replacement. The $25 generic ones on Ebay work great and they can be found at Autozone for less than $70. It only takes about 5 minutes to unscrew it and screw another one in. PM me if you want some more detailed instructions. I just hate to see someone waste their money when theydon't need to :D .
 

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Frank_Drebin said:
Wow, $250 seems very very high for an O2 sensor replacement. The $25 generic ones on Ebay work great and they can be found at Autozone for less than $70. It only takes about 5 minutes to unscrew it and screw another one in. PM me if you want some more detailed instructions. I just hate to see someone waste their money when theydon't need to :D .
Ditto. From where you are, you can fly to Florida round trip for that!

Even if you want an exact Bosch replacement, with the connector so you do not have to splice it, it is only around $100 online... :eek:

The"special" socket for the sensor is around $10-$15 at any part store, and on other cars, I've seen people take it out with rusty wise-grips (although I would not recommend that personally).

Save your money for Christmas gifts!
 

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TROLLhattenschatten said:
It's 15*F outside! :eek:

Besides, i had problems changing the other one on the '96.
I usually soak the threads in PB blaster for about an hour, then use a box-end wrench to un screw it. I've never had one sieze on me. I always use anti sieze when I replace them too.
 

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Frank_Drebin said:
I usually soak the threads in PB blaster for about an hour, then use a box-end wrench to un screw it. I've never had one sieze on me. I always use anti sieze when I replace them too.
But if it is seized and you try to remove it it might take the threads with it then you'll have to replace the down pipe as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Well i fixed the coolant leak.
i just threw a hose clamp on the feed-line from the tank.

I bet thats what the "insuficent coolant level" warning was.


I am gonna start a new thread, just to keep this organized.
 
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