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Discussion Starter #1
Hello folks.
After many months of storage, the saab in back out in action. I got laid off last week(finally) and with that went my glorious brand new work truck. So since my saab has to last this winter (it better!) I need to fix a few things. It really is unfortunate that my only experience with a saab was via a horribly maintained and problomatic car, and a rude overpriced dealer. O well no car brand is safe from this things, and I won't hold it against saab or it's fans, except for the fact of likely never buying one again.

Anyway sorry about the rant, just had to vent.
To my problem:
My check engine light started coming on one day a little before I put it in storage. Today I got it diagnosed, and among $1000+ of other issues the dealer found, the oxygen sensor wire was found to be severed and the crankcase breather sensor malfunctioning. The dealer wants 100+ dollars just to fix this wire. Where is the oxygen sensor, and can it be fixed by your ave joe with a soldering gun? Also what does the crankcase breather sensor do, and can I live without it?
Some of the other problems I can tackle for a fraction of the dealer cost. By others simply aren't worth fixing, as I will never recover cost even DIY.

Thanks so much! with out you guys I probably would have purposely driven my car into a brick wall a long time ago!
 

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If the car is a 1996 or later model, I would first have the diagnostic codes read out at some car part store which does it free. In my area, that would be an Autozone, Checker, Advance Autoparts etc.

Of you write down the exact numeric codes, all four digits, you can then look up the OBD II fault code definition on iequus.com, or any other online source (ex.: http://www.iequus.com/obd_def.asp).

There are two oxygen sensors. Both screw into the exhaust pipe. One before the catalytic converter, one after. Faults with the front sensor should be fixed, the car computer uses it to adjust air/fuel mix and combustion. The rear sensor monitors the catalytic converter, and has no other functional purpose. Other than passing emissions tests, it is useless, and many people replace it with a "cheater plug" when it fails (which is unfortunately illegal in the US)

Removing the O2 sensors can be difficult, but there is a special O2 sensor socket sold for about $10 at Sears and auto part stores that makes it easier.

Unless the wire is sheared off right at the sensor, it can be fixed, and you may not even have to remove the sensor. (aftermarket sensors are sold with bare wire connectors which have to be hooked up to the original cable with the OEM Bosch/Saab connector). The wires are supposed to be crimped and not a soldered (heat from exhaust, resistance difference etc.).

There is a crankcase breather valve, a.k.a. PCV valve, or check valve, (p/n 7521313, which you can look up on eEuroparts.com), but I am not aware of any breather sensor on my model. The valve is plastic and does need replacing every 30-60k miles, which takes about 5-10 minutes depending on the condition of the rubber hoses, and requires no tools.
 

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The trouble with dealers is that they tend to repair things the "right way" rather than the least expensive way. I worked at dealers in the 60s and 70s - it was good when there was plenty of work..An example is the alternator; usually only the worn down brushes need replaced, but the dealer wants to replace the whole unit at $$$$ !

So unless you are a good DIY and/or have the services of a good indie mechanic, you will need much money to deal with the dealer.. And I would not use an "average joe" to repair anything of complexity...

Can you, missgoodnight, give us the complete list of what is perceived as being "wrong" with the car ??
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. The codes on the result sheet show
PO322 - 'crank sensor malfunction'
PO134 - 'Oxygen sensor - bank 1, sensor 1' is that the first sensor in front of the cat? as far as I know my car still gets simular milege as always, but maybe uses a 1-1.5 litres more per 100km.

Other repairs needed included
-top rad hose mushy (DIY)
-dirty coolent (DIY)
-rad cap not venting (DIY)
-foglamps inoperative (DIY, one lense is busted, but the other always burns out after a month or so?)
-A/C pump disconected by previous owner (not a concern for me, I always prefered open air, or MB in summer so not worth fixing) reverse gear failing (Again this is not worth fixing, I find that as long as I put it in first before reverse and gently hold the shifter while leting out the clutch it engages. Hope this keeps working!)
-front sway bar not connected (I have the newer front suspension components and the old swaybar does not work, I don't have the time or tools to swap it out, nor is it worth paying someone)
-oil leaks everywhere! (It seeps from all over the bottom, I tightned ever bolt to spec, and still no go. At this point I don't it's worth the trouble as I don't have to top up much between changes. Maybe half a quart, if that)
-Brake bleed nips have been sheared off by previous owner

Also my strut mounts, or engine mounts or somethings need changing as the car creaks and pops and groins and rattles like no buddies business! Plus I have a Huge circular 5" chip in windshield! And as if the cars not hurting enough already, in the year that I have had it, a little non cosmetic rust has turned nasty!
I also assume there is engine sluge since the car makes rattling sound on cold startups like oil starvations!
-it squeals like crazy on a cold day! the dealer could not replicate the sound, but said this is a normal sound for an old alternator. I don't think so!
- it burns oil I think, at idle (white smoke from exaust)

Ever since the day I aquired this car I have been cleaning up the last owners negligent mess! This list of things I have fixed already is twice as long as the above! I still find bolts and random peices missing from the last mechanic!

At least this has been a good learning experience. If I had aquired a perfect car, I would neve have know what to look for in the future.:roll:
 

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You've got one hell of a mess on wheels there!

Bleed nipples :eek: considering the fluid should be changed bi-annually how old is yours? - scary safety issue.
Rattly tappets on start up - no big deal. [only an issue if they rattle once warm, this indicates poor oil pressure]
White smoke - [if it is persistent] losing water through combustion chamber.
Dirty water - how dirty? sludgy yukky brown? oil cooler failure perhaps cooler change thread
Mushy hose - it is a soft flexible hose so perhaps no worries.
Oil leaking from everywhere - most I bet from the cam cover gaskets? just need to remove clean and refit these [assuming it is not broken] helping it seal with RTV silicone [hey; it worked, and will work again, for me]
Foglamps - just ignore them
Windscreen - only a worry if you roll the car
front ARB - see above comment
O2 sensor - you have 1 per head, if you look from your drivers side into the rear of the engine bay you can see the exhuast drop down from the rear head to meet the section from the front; well, on this vertical section you'll see the sensor fitted into the pipe; fllow the wire back and you'll probably find it is severed somewhere near where it passes the gear linkage [assuming you've a manual]. It plugs into the harness up near the inlet manifold, get the plug indone, unscrew sensor and solder/heatshrink everything back together - job done.
 

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Bank1 sensor 1 is the front sensor. It should be before the catalytic converter.

Not sure if P0322 is the crankshaft position sensor(#4504288), or the camshaft sensor (4770079) on a V6. Here is the definition that comes up when I do a search:

P0322, Generic, Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
 

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PMI said:
Bank1 sensor 1 is the front sensor. It should be before the catalytic converter.
on the V6 both sensors are before to the catalyst; bank 1 is head 1, this is nearest the driver, therefore the sensor is the rearmost [when looking from the front of the car]
 

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ragtopcav said:
on the V6 both sensors are before to the catalyst; bank 1 is head 1, this is nearest the driver, therefore the sensor is the rearmost [when looking from the front of the car]
Thanks for the correction, I did not realize if was the V6 until I looked up the other code.
 

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missgoodnight said:
leting out the clutch it engages. Hope this keeps working!)
-front sway bar not connected (I have the newer front suspension components and the old swaybar does not work, I don't have the time or tools to swap it out, nor is it worth paying someone)
how does a swaybar not work? it is a single peice of metal, connected to the swaybar by two replacable links. having it disconencted would result in noises going over bumps...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the replies. Yes a lot of this stuff I can live with as is but I do need to take care of a few things. As for those bleed nipples it could have be years since the brakes were done! Yes I know, bad. This is going to be one of the first isues I deal with.


Nimisys said:
how does a swaybar not work? it is a single peice of metal, connected to the swaybar by two replacable links. having it disconencted would result in noises going over bumps...
I have the new control arms but still the old sway bar. It's not that the bar is broken, its that it does not fit in the holes that the new arms have, as the system is diffrent. Changing out the old bar to the new one (whitch I have) is a little past the skills and tools I have. It involes dropping the subframe and slightly raising the engine. I KNOW something would go wrong if I tried, but I have been quoted stupid amounts of money to get it done be a mechanic.
 
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