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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've a got a 2000 9-3 that has some orange relay issues - I think.
Low beam is fine on both, but High beam only works on 1 side.
I know this is a common fault - so I ordered a new orange relay. I also have a spare from the wreckers as well.
I've just installed it (new relay) - but unfortunately its still showing only 1 lamp on high beam.
So if I have a brand new relay - and the globe was faulty - have I just cooked my relay - or is just I need another globe?
Is there anything else I need to check before I change globes as well?
Should I change both sides - with new globes, just in case 1 is 55w and the other is say 65w?
Any suggestions will help - because I need to fix this so I can get a Registration.
I'd like to solve this myself before I take the car to an auto-electrician.
 

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First of all, no you can't possibly ruin the orange 'relay' (it's not a relay) if there's a filament out. If you install 100W bulbs, yeah they can get overheated, but standard 55W/60W H4 bulbs are perfectly fine.



Are you getting the message FRONT LAMP FAILURE on SID? Assuming orange 'relay' is working fine, you should get the message if the filament is indeed bad.


That being said, LH high beam not working is classic orange failure mode. It could be that the new orange is bad too. Have you tried the junkyard one?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks all.
Yes I got the SID warning - Front Lamp Failure.
I'll investigate the fuses - and then if they are ok - invest in some new globes.
I have to solve this soon, as the lighting & the import plate paperwork - are the only items holding up my new registration.
I have a total of 3 orange relays also - so they cant all be toast.
 

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Thanks all.
Yes I got the SID warning - Front Lamp Failure.
I'll investigate the fuses - and then if they are ok - invest in some new globes.

You should replace both bulbs, with good quality ones from e.g. Philips or Osram, the +30% or +50% varieties. Stay away from "intense white" nonsense.


If you have the SID warning, it means the bulb is actually bad. If it's the orange thing that's bad, there's no warning, you're missing one high (main) beam, and you get a nice chance to do the moose test yourself. This pretty much (very very nearly) happened to me. I don't recommend it.
 

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If you have the SID warning, it means the bulb is actually bad. If it's the orange thing that's bad, there's no warning, you're missing one high (main) beam, and you get a nice chance to do the moose test yourself. This pretty much (very very nearly) happened to me. I don't recommend it.
I don't think that's accurate. My '01 generated the SID warning for a bad orange relay. One high beam out, front light failure warning = bad relay. Bulbs were fine.
 

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Also...

If you ever do have problems with an orange relay, I have never met one that couldn't be fixed by re-flowing the solder where the circuit board attaches to the terminals. I used to work in a Saab shop and probably fixed 5 or 6 dozen of them.
 

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Sometimes you can't see the cracks, but often...esp. with some practice/experience, you can. It's amazing that a hairline crack that looks like a scratch can cause so many problems.
 

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Hondas used to have issues with the solder joints cracking on the main relay that supplied power to the ignition. When the car got hot, it wouldn't start.
You had to wait an hour for the relay to cool down before it would start again.
That one took my dad a long time to track down, but the fix was the same, just reflow the solder joints. He fixed an orange "relay" for me once, too, on my NG900. There was no bulb failure warning; I just had a high beam that didn't work. My wife's 9-5 recently had the LH low beam work intermittently, again with no bulb failure warning. I had a spare orange relay on hand, swapped it out, and she has both headlights working again. Swapping bulbs is always the cheaper and quicker test, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Turned out to be the fuse, not the globe or relay. I did however end up getting some better quality globes, as well as some new fuses etc. I ended up with Philips X-treme Vision Plus (+130%). Couldn't find any +30 or +50 etc. I hope this meets EdT's approval.
Not sure how long they will last.
I wont be doing the 'moose' test - In my area its more likely to be the 'Kangaroo' test.

I found this website that does test globes - Not sure what other people think anyway.
Thanks to all for advice about my relays anyway.
+1 Mimmi and EdT.
 

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Yeah, just re-flow the big joints. I've tried to see the breaks with a high-power magnifier with no success... but re-flowing always seems to work.
When I tried reflowing the joints the light that was giving trouble was fixed but another one went out.
I did it again and the original light went out .
I did this a few times before I got one from a wrecker and ordered a new one.

Maybe I'm just a ham fisted solderer but I did manage to reflow the ECU in my BMW ok.
 

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I've a got a 2000 9-3 that has some orange relay issues - I think.
Low beam is fine on both, but High beam only works on 1 side.
I know this is a common fault - so I ordered a new orange relay. I also have a spare from the wreckers as well.
I've just installed it (new relay) - but unfortunately its still showing only 1 lamp on high beam.
So if I have a brand new relay - and the globe was faulty - have I just cooked my relay - or is just I need another globe?
Is there anything else I need to check before I change globes as well?
Should I change both sides - with new globes, just in case 1 is 55w and the other is say 65w?
Any suggestions will help - because I need to fix this so I can get a Registration.
I'd like to solve this myself before I take the car to an auto-electrician.
This is a known issue.
The solder almost always breaks on these.
If you are good at soldering and have a magnifying glass, you can fix it in five minutes.
 
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