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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I feel like this one should be easy unless there is some adjustment or quirk I'm missing.

My parking brake slowly stopped working. I adjusted tension and found that parking cables and caliper levers move properly but that only right side caliper engages.

Lifted the back-end and had the wife slowly step on brake as I rotated wheels. Found that when right wheel is locked that left wheel is engaged but still gives. Went for a drive and found right rotor is hot and left is still cool.

Brake fluid is normal.

My immediate thought is to replace left caliper, but before I do that, is there some adjustment I'm missing, another potential culprit, or another diagnostic? Or I'm just paranoid and should just go ahead and replace the caliper?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
seized caliper symptoms=hot disc one side cool on the other..
Which one is seized? The hot or cold? Or is recommended to replace both?

As I said, when I had it lifted, both calipers engage and release, but not with equal pressure, and the left side emergency brake does not engage at all.
 

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Which one is seized? The hot or cold? Or is recommended to replace both?

As I said, when I had it lifted, both calipers engage and release, but not with equal pressure, and the left side emergency brake does not engage at all.
The hot one is the seized one its why it is hot! A brake caliper seized produces some heat that explain the hotness of your caliper.
 

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I've had the same issue last summer with an 2006 Aero.
You might want to replace discs and pads depending of how long you've been driving with a seized caliper.
Heated discs will warp and cause some vibrations while braking.
 

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based on what I find with that style of caliper, the threaded post on the piston and the relationship of the e brake internal mechanism can be helped by using a service tool to fully retract the piston. ( pushes and turns the piston at the same time) once retracted,then reassemble and with pumping the brakes the pads will seat the and the ebrake will find a new equibirium and work better.

That is not necessarily going to fix your issue, but I beleive that if the caliper is not leaking brake fluid its worth the effort to try.

good luck ps dont forget to put some brake lube on the stainless slider pins for the caliper/
 

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As a rule, brake components are always replaced in pairs.
I agree^^^^ same with shocks , end links, springs and wheel bearings, although I cheated my SAAB on the wheel bearing thing this winter.

The rear calipers may be ( not sure) available through Amazon. Some conponent caliper prices are so cheap its not worth rebuilding, I beleive.
 

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I agree^^^^ same with shocks , end links, springs and wheel bearings, although I cheated my SAAB on the wheel bearing thing this winter.
I agree too qwikredline except for one thing, replace wheel bearing in pairs. Its the first time I read about this! Why?

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I agree too qwikredline except for one thing, replace wheel bearing in pairs. Its the first time I read about this! Why?

Thanks
I might say it goes with everything in pairs. Lights, shocks, brakes, etc.If your left bearing has to be replaced, the right one is likely to go soon too. Except for an anormal mechanical problem or a bad part.

And it takes less time doing the job on both side than replacing one and the other 1 month after or so.

At least, that's my opinion ;)
 

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based on what I find with that style of caliper, the threaded post on the piston and the relationship of the e brake internal mechanism can be helped by using a service tool to fully retract the piston. ( pushes and turns the piston at the same time) once retracted,then reassemble and with pumping the brakes the pads will seat the and the ebrake will find a new equibirium and work better.
My other car uses a similar system and failed its inspection recently for a faulty handbrake on the right side. I used the tool to compress the piston on both sides, reassembled everything, and the brake was working correctly. If the Saab uses the same system (and it sounds like it does), this should fix your problem.

If not, you may need a new caliper on the failed side.
 

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I might say it goes with everything in pairs. Lights, shocks, brakes, etc.If your left bearing has to be replaced, the right one is likely to go soon too. Except for an anormal mechanical problem or a bad part.

And it takes less time doing the job on both side than replacing one and the other 1 month after or so.

At least, that's my opinion ;)
For lights right: you want lightning to be same on each side. For shocks and brakes you want balance on each side. But for bearing you don't convince me. I never view the bearing fall on two side of a car. You need change only the broken one. The other one can tough the entire life of the car and I drove some old car with big mileage.

It takes less time make only the job who need to be made! c'mon
 

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springs,brakes(discs,pads) and shocks in pairs anything else just the side that's failed..
 

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Check your hoses going from the line to the caliper as well. A collapsed hose could also cause those symptoms. Most likely a caliper though.
 

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For lights right: you want lightning to be same on each side. For shocks and brakes you want balance on each side. But for bearing you don't convince me. I never view the bearing fall on two side of a car. You need change only the broken one. The other one can tough the entire life of the car and I drove some old car with big mileage.

It takes less time make only the job who need to be made! c'mon
Well I might be overdoing, but that's how I roll. Do you change a drivebelt when it breaks on the highway or when you noticed that it's cracked?
I'm no mechanic, at least not for car, and anyway it's just a forum.
I'm just saying... :roll:
 

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Well I might be overdoing, but that's how I roll. Do you change a drivebelt when it breaks on the highway or when you noticed that it's cracked?
I'm no mechanic, at least not for car, and anyway it's just a forum.
I'm just saying... :roll:
You can change both bearings at the same time if you want, but most people just change out the bad and keep going with the original until its time...when who knows. I've had several cars where a bearing has gone out and the other side either never went out during ownership or many years later. You can't compare a drive belt to a bearing. Something such as a poor alignment or balancing of the tire on one side could cause that while the other side is less affected and can have many years of service and you could be throwing away an expensive part. Either way you're screwed if your belt breaks, but a bearing..you can make it around for awhile with a worn out bearing, no big deal.
 

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Unhinge both handbrake cables and see if they pull back easily when reattaching them. If one is harder to remount back in place then that is your faulty cable.


Have this issue on mine, 1 side would stick the other wouldn't, but calipers work fine, cables are old and 1 was seized.
 

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I agree too qwikredline except for one thing, replace wheel bearing in pairs. Its the first time I read about this! Why?

Thanks
i did the driver side because i had to, and in my experience the passenger side of the car has a tougher time up north as the salt crap is plowed to the right side. so the right side of the car is always more corrosion prone. These wheel bearings are not encapsulated on the inside, and the grunge builds up in there and causes failure. apart from the steeel wheel bearing in an alloy knuckle - dissimilar metals with a little calcium chloride and moisture mixed in with a little sand to trap the moisture content, just a dandy way to wreck a car part. I powdercoat the knuckles and rust paint the new bearings and use anti seize. still the end links only last a few months. But then I put in powergrids and they will last forever. I need to adapt some all weather sphericals for the suspension. SAAB deserves better.

Maybe move to Arizona.
 
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