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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I spent the better part of yesterday taking off the rear Anti on my 9-3 , sanding, painting and then the Viggens (sand and paint) and then clamp and mold them together (Q-bond) . Get the right bolts (4) 2 1/4 inch 3/8 inch bolts) and bolt them on the Viggen. I didn't get a chance to drive the car last night, but I drove 200+ miles today and it really feels like a different car!

The ride is somehow smoother, a lot less torque steer, a lot less scariness while on uneven pavement and it just handles sooo much better. I already have the front 2 point brace on, but the rear made a world of difference. I would recommend that to anyone on the edge of doing it and everyone who has done it knows what i mean.

I am very happy. I'd goive an instruction thing, but it's pretty straight forward. Break the bolts off while trying to take off, clean, paint, clamp together (I also used epoxy like stuff at the clamp) and then clamp both on the car. Done.

 

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Looks good! I still have to put my 22mm rear ARB from GS in...:nono;
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, i would do it as soon as you can. i'm sure it's at least as good and the double stack (if not better) But wow is all i can say.

Sorta Reminded me of how the SPG handled I drove all day yesterday, just more refined.

Why the stock setup was so inadequate I'll never know.:roll: Simple brace upgrade makes a huge difference. I haven't done the steering rack brace on the Viggen yet, but did it on the 900. I think this made more of a difference and I might not even do the brace on the Viggen...(well for a long time anyway) BUT the torque steer seems a lot less intrusive just with the rear brace upgraded. I did read that it was a must, but didn't realize how much of a difference it actually would be.
 

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I have the GS one on my toy and doubled up on the wifes vert. The only difference is I welded them together. Looks nice....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have the GS one on my toy and doubled up on the wifes vert. The only difference is I welded them together. Looks nice....
Yeah the q-bond is not as strong as a weld, but it will hold up till i get them welded next time I have it up on a lift where they can do it. Is there that much difference between the feel of the GS and the double?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You should NEVER weld them. The heat changes the metal properties and is to be avoided.
I would think that it would make them stronger and welding would only be a problem on springs and such. (that rebound to a certain extent.) If it is solid already , you really can't make it un-solid. right? I see the other braces welded all the time or am i totally wrong?


Isn't that a weld?
 

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Welding at the ends has, of course no effect. What he means is that by welding in the middle (or more) you can overheat the steel, and as it is not solid, it bends, changing the temper of the steel, can make its stiffening properties change...

Yes it bends, that's why the properties of the material are as important as the caliber of steel...

Of course, you can also clamp correctly or weld maintaining the pieces cold...:cheesy:
 

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Why join them - I would guess that a bit of rubber and a pair of hose clamps would stop them rattling?

I think that single clip and glue is going to go missing fairly soon!


I just fitted the GS Anti roll to my 'new' 9-3 which has standard suspension. Massive improvement. In comparison with Konis and lowered spring on my NG, the roll bar on that makes a minimal difference and only at the ragged edge.

Superflex poly bush and DIY brace is a good alternative to the expensive, machined rack brace. The round bush is the softest and makes the most difference. I can feel it squirming on my clanky diesel and it's going to get changed......
 

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Welding at the ends has, of course no effect. What he means is that by welding in the middle (or more) you can overheat the steel, and as it is not solid, it bends, changing the temper of the steel, can make its stiffening properties change...

Yes it bends, that's why the properties of the material are as important as the caliber of steel...

Of course, you can also clamp correctly or weld maintaining the pieces cold...:cheesy:
That is exactly what I meant, thank you :)
 

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You should NEVER weld them. The heat changes the metal properties and is to be avoided.
Ya go to bed early and look what happens:D. Depending on the steel properties you are correct in that annealing or enbrittlement can occur depending on the heat put into it. I only smoked the ends together and a ~1/2 tack where the flats are. They've been on the wifes vert for about 14mos and performing well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've only joined them with the clamp and q-bond (which is stronger than you think) so they would not flex in the middle and to make mounting easier. Not because they were banging or anything.

I'm pretty sure that a spot weld on either side is not going to weaken the metal enough, or cause any issues. Now if you ran a weld the length of the bar, that might cause an undesired effect, but I don't see the need for running a weld the entire length.

I will keep an eye on the q-bond and clamp to see if they crack or anything, so if they are fine, i might just leave it like that till I buy a GS one. Then this will go on the 900. I pretty much have to do something to the 900 now that I felt the difference this piece can make.

If you guys have not used Q-bond or heard about it, I keep it handy for tons of things. It is an epoxy that you sprinkle powder down where you want to join, then drip a liquid on to instantly smoke and bond the two pieces together. I cracked my MT. bike frame off behind the crank & I used the q-bond and hose clamps exactly like i did with the bars and after 400 miles of riding, no issues whatsoever on the repair. It literally is amazing how good it is, and how simple binding things together are.

I had dreams last night on how well the car rode after doing it.... Should be the first modification done after buying a NG900 or OG9-3.
 

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I did this on my gfs car with my old rear sway bar and her bar. It made the handling 10x better. I didn't put any kind of clamp in the middle. I have to go back and paint them eventually b/c I only had time to prime one of them and it's rusty again. Do you think the clamp makes much of a difference?
 

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Ya go to bed early and look what happens:D. Depending on the steel properties you are correct in that annealing or enbrittlement can occur depending on the heat put into it. I only smoked the ends together and a ~1/2 tack where the flats are. They've been on the wifes vert for about 14mos and performing well.
1/2 tack is perfect and you can also insulate the welded area with leather and then fiberglass (house insulation) and let it cool as slow as possible. This ensure the metal will temper only slightly if much at all.

JT
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I did this on my gfs car with my old rear sway bar and her bar. It made the handling 10x better. I didn't put any kind of clamp in the middle. I have to go back and paint them eventually b/c I only had time to prime one of them and it's rusty again. Do you think the clamp makes much of a difference?
I'm not sure how much it does make, but I just assumed it would. I just looked at the clamp and checked the bolts today and they have not budged.

Only 300 or so miles on it after I did it, so i'll check on it in about 500 to see if there is any issues. I would think the more solid area you can make the better...
 

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double sway-double swagger

This is actually a common race mod on most cars.
I've seen them go all sorts of ways. I would leave mine unwelded maybe epoxy as you have done to make install easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This is actually a common race mod on most cars.
I've seen them go all sorts of ways. I would leave mine unwelded maybe epoxy as you have done to make install easier.
Yeah unless I see cracks or stress marks on the epoxy I'll just leave it.

Still love how it handles now compared to before. I knew about it for years, but just never got around to it. I definitely recommend doing it, if you can't afford a different one.
 

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Yes I want to but I have to check how many points I am at for NASA autocross/track events as adding or modifying the swaybar does add to the upgrade points possibly putting me in a higher class! In addition to the rack clamp and brace, front lower tie bar, and the intercooler mod I am getting ready to do I don't know if I have the extra points at this point....no pun intended... to mess with the rear swaybar. I have to add it up and see...
 

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Yes I want to but I have to check how many points I am at for NASA autocross/track events as adding or modifying the swaybar does add to the upgrade points possibly putting me in a higher class! In addition to the rack clamp and brace, front lower tie bar, and the intercooler mod I am getting ready to do I don't know if I have the extra points at this point....no pun intended... to mess with the rear swaybar. I have to add it up and see...
Order Genuine Saab 22mm ASB in texture black, rub some dirt and mud on it, install, nobody will notice.
 

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And now me, I'll notice :D


I bet no-one's EVER tried to slip the odd modification past the race marshalls. Oh, no wouldn't dream of it :p

First rule in Saab 9-3 modification book? Swap rear ARB. They will never think of looking there :cheesy:
 
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