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Discussion Starter #1
I was going to replace my worn front rotors along with the pads and my project stalled abruptly when I tried taking the old rotors off. The caliper is off and so is the retaining hex bolt but the rotor won’t even move. I applied some heat with a portable torch thinking this would soften things up but with no luck.
I also thought about prying the rotor against the seat where the caliper bolts but I am worried I may break one of those bolt seats off.
Is there a trick to this or will I have to pay somebody $$$ to do it for me?
Thanks for any suggestions.
 

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Hit it with a hammer. Hard. I had to do that the first time i took off my rotors.. and if youre replacing the rotors dont worry about damaging them!
 

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A quality penetrant (CRC, Seafoam, PBlaster, Liquid Wrench, others), time, and vibration will do the trick...
I would use one of these, reassemble, drive around for a day or two and apply more Liquid Wrench..
Then gently tap the contact surface using a little 16 pound hammer..

Have you measured the rotors yet ?? Or are they that bad.. ??..

This is why I uses Anti-seize when fitting rotors, and anything that is metal to metal..
I think grease also helps a lot..
 

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I used a big gear puller to get mine off. The center of the driveshaft is conveniently dimpled so you can use one.
 

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Roger that. BFH. & it can help to hit the outside of the rotor out near the rim driving in towards the motor. It can help break the bond and you can generate a lot more force swinging from out to in. One good shot that way and then start pounding that bad boy off from inside toward the out side until it's off..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for all the replies guys, you all make it an excellent site, i bought the car only two weeks ago but i've been stuck reading all this expert advice rather than driving the car !

i heated up the inner part of the rotor, and I was trying to free it and spin it around its axis by pounding down on one of the wheel bolt holes... my hammer was way too light for this... so i'll be getting a big guy tomorrow...
thanks again,
peace tomasz
 

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Minimum 2lb lump hammer will do the trick.
 

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Same problem with mine - like everyone else said, tons of PB Blaster and a number of good hard whacks with the hammer will eventually do it...

Before you put the new ones on, apply some anti-sieze to the back portion that sseats on the hub and it should be much easier the next time.
 

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I ran into a little trouble with one of the front rotors last week when I renewed them. With the assistance of a rubber mallet I got the rotor loose, but it would come outward, so I stuck to screwdrivers opposite of eachother into the vented slots of the rotor and just, well, rotated until the rust was cleared enough to let the rotor off the hub.
 

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Had the same problem last week when I was replacing the rear rotors.

I know that "professionals" use a heavy sludge hammer and simply go at it. I've seen it done and it's effective. I see two problems with this method. One is that the rotor may get damaged so that it can't be reinstalled. The other is the possibility of damaging the wheel bearing. Heavy shock to the ball bearings can cause brenelling which can cause uneven wear and eventually premature failure. I think a trained mechanic will know when to back off ;) but DIY may not.

I wouldn't try applying heat since you'll need LOTS of heat for it to be effective, and that amount of heat will surely damage the grease in the bearing.

In the end, I ended up using 3 jaw gear puller. I was surprised at how much torque it required to release it. The only problem is that there's no where for the claws of the puller to grip. I ended up grinding a shallow notch using an angle grinder for this purpose. You don't have this problem on the front rotors since the slots give you a place to grip. You can purchase gear pullers from auto supplier for about $20.

On the new rotor, I drilled two 1/4" holes and tapped it. This way in the futre, all I have to do is insert 1/4" bolt and screw it in to release the rotor. I've attached few pictures showing the procedure.

One more thing. Do not use your regular anti-seize compound between the rotor the and hub. Under high temperature the grease part disappears leaving behind powdery material. Instead, use brake lubricaton (grease), but very very sparingly since you don't any of this on the pad and the surface of the rotor.
 

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I pity you snow belt people. Mine came off like they were just put on after 115,000 miles. Just another recommendation if you are putting on new pads, get a silicone (I guess it's silicone) goo and apply liberally to the back of the pads. New pads are the main cause of noisey brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for a brilliant idea with the release bolts, Rotate, in the end I went with the 6" gear puller and the rotors just popped off... I can only work on the car in the morning and evening, and as I have two floors of neighbours right above me, I thought going at it with a mammer may not be such a good idea...
I hope the side transmission mount and water pump will be as easy; these are my next items on the list.
thanks again guys
tomasz
 
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