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Discussion Starter #1
I have removed the turbo in my 2000 9-3 t7 and have another on the way. I couldn't remove one of the lines on it as the banjo bolt was completely seized (tried everything but drilling). I've decided to just replace them and recommendations on where to find them or if it's better to get the braided line instead of the hard lines
 

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U-pull or someone with a parts car or you can get them out of ORIO. I believe they vary from 12mm to 14mm depending on the turbo you have. Which line is it?
 

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Have you tried penetrating oil and an impact driver? With the turbo studs, I usually start spraying them with penetrating oil several days before I need to get them off, and hit them with an impact driver a couple of times a day. Eventually they come loose, and I think the same should work for the banjo bolt. If not, I'd look at junkyards or on eBay. If you have a long enough breaker bar, you could probably twist the head right off of one of those banjo bolts and free a turbo line that way. If that happened on a junkyard car, who cares, right? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Me and another guy tried cranking with everything we could but I'd figure why note replace it. BobSaabit I believe it's the water outlet. I'll send a pic that I have currently but it's kinda hard to see. It's the one that doesn't look like the banjo is loose.
272166
 

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Did you try some heat? I'd heat the banjo bolt itself with a MAPP torch for as long as you can, then crank on it. Like Jeremy said, and impact driver would help rattle it free. /

Or hit up the local U-pull and just grab a line and a fitting there. You need that line one way or another, so either that line has to come off or you need a new source.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is there any special washers for all the lines including oil or is it just the copper shins? Also what sizes are the banjo bolts?
 

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Copper washers, 12mm or 14mm depending on GT17 or TD04 turbo. Gasket on the oil drain line to the pan.
 

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Don’t heat the bolt, heat the material around the bolt to get it to expand. If you heat the bolt, it will expand and get tighter.
I'm fully in agreement with that scientifically and "as a mechanic", but you need a heck of a big torch to heat around it. I've found that just heating the fastener seems to cause the rust to let loose of the part in cases like this.
 

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I'm fully in agreement with that scientifically and "as a mechanic", but you need a heck of a big torch to heat around it. I've found that just heating the fastener seems to cause the rust to let loose of the part in cases like this.
That’s definitely true too, I’d try both ways lol those lines definitely get stubborn for sure.
 

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The other option is cooling. You can get freeze spray at the local electronics supply. Freeze the heck out of the bolt, spray penetrating oil and see it the cold breaks it loose. If you can get away with it, put the whole turbo in your refrigerator freezer first, then take it out and do the freeze spray outside. That will let the freeze spray supercool the bolt. (Don't do that if you've put penetrating oil on it already - it will stink up the freezer).
 
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