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Any oil analysis to back up these "good results". I am not saying your not getting good results, just a really thick oil. A UOA could tell you how well the oils working.

Remember, thicker oil doesnt mean better protection, if it did, we would all be using 75w90 gear oil. Flow = protection.
 

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Sooooooooooooooooooooo.... what is theeeee definitive final answer on oil for 9-3's & 9-5's that have been or might be affected by sludge... if there is one??? I don't want to start a new thread and I can't begin to imagine how many hits the word oil would generate on this m/b's search... so I'll try to keep this post inside the "sticky oil" thread.:lol:

I've read and heard a lot of "opinions" but haven't yet found a general consensus amongst Saab'ists about which oil will most likely work the best for long term reliability and least likely return of the sludge monster. I know opinions are like *****holes.... everyone has one.

We have a post sludge '99 9-3 and it's first oil change is coming up since all the repairs where done. (timing componenets, head off, etc., etc., etc. $$$) The dealer claims Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic is what Saab is recommending... the "internet" begs to differ. I'm "considering" 0W30 for the winter and 0W-40 for the summer. Not certain if I want to go with Saab's recommendation as they are the ones who engineered this nightmare in the first place.

Nomex suit... ON!!!:lol:"Let's ROLL"!!!




Later that day.... UPDATE!!! o.k.... here's what "Saab" says... and don't ask me how long I sat on hold and had to talk to a customer service rep. to get this info... please!:roll:


Per Saab... "USE FULLY SYNTHETIC 0W-40 ENGINE OIL AND CHANGE IT EVERY 5-7,500 MILES DEPENDING UPON DRIVING CONDITIONS, TEMPERATURES AND HABITS."



Now if they had simply told people that in the first place... they still might have engineered the cars oiling and pcv system poorly, they still might have put the catalytic converter under the oil pan without any sort of a heat shield... and at least given themselves and some of us a chance... how sad?!?!?



:nono;shame on you Saab.
 

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Hi all,

Long time lurker, short time poster here. I've got a 2003 9-3SE HOT with just over 96,000 miles. Had the infamous oil light start to flicker on me about 2 wks ago. Checked the oil, showed up on the dipstick. Called my dealer who said I should have it towed up to them (luckily my insurance covered the tow fee).

Some back ground:
Bought the car from the dealer with 31,000 on it. It had been a one owner lease out of CT.....all services and updates had been done. When we bought the car we also purchased the Saab Certified extended warrenty (up to 100,000 miles). I had continued to have all the standard services done by my dealer. Semi synthetic was used until after the 60,000 mile service (yeah, the big one). Then I've had full synthetic Mobil 1 in it done my Meineke for the remainder of the oil changes.

Back to the present......fortunatley I had all of my oil service records, of which my dealer submited to Saab. Saab then approved them to go ahead and crack the engine (valve cover/oil pan) to search for the dreaded sludge. My dealer called me back last Fri and said they had good and bad news. The bad news was that they indeed found sludge. The good news was that Saab had approved a brand new engine be installed under warranty!!! Said I'd probably still have to bay around $450-$475 for wear items that wouldn't be covered under the warranty but considering the new engine plus labor is going to be around $9,000, that's a small price to pay.

Anyone have any idea if a "new engine" comes with the updated PCV kit, or is this something I'll have to install myself. Also with a new engine, should I be running full synthetic from the get go, or start with semi?
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Oh I'd say full synth at 5k max intervals. Yes, run it from the start. There's aboslutely NO danger in running synth in a new/rebuilt engine, too slippery oil tales included.

In Maine, if you're changing the oil yourself, I'd look for either Mobil1 0W40 or Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 and run it year round. Perhaps even M1 10W40 High Mileage.
 

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I changed my oil this past weekend and put Castrol Syntec 10w40 in with a napa gold filter. I am not thrilled with the results. During the warmup period it seems like my engine is working a little harder, not a fan of that!

Once warmup is complete the car runs smooth and fine.

You guys think living in Maine, I can use Mobil 1 0w40 all year round?
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I don't live in Maine but there is NO reason not to use M1 0W40 year round in virtually any climate in this engine. You don't need to go up in weight in the summer. And the "0W" cold flow rating is the best you can get.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
lancelot8602 said:
I changed my oil this past weekend and put Castrol Syntec 10w40 in with a napa gold filter. I am not thrilled with the results. During the warmup period it seems like my engine is working a little harder, not a fan of that!

Once warmup is complete the car runs smooth and fine.
Doesn't necessarily mean something's wrong with the oil. Although, if you want to use Castrol Syntec, try finding the 5W40 for the next fill. It's a great oil much more suited to this engine.
 

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bkrell said:
Oh I'd say full synth at 5k max intervals. Yes, run it from the start. There's aboslutely NO danger in running synth in a new/rebuilt engine, too slippery oil tales included.

In Maine, if you're changing the oil yourself, I'd look for either Mobil1 0W40 or Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 and run it year round. Perhaps even M1 10W40 High Mileage.
Yep, Mobil 1 0W 40 is what I had been using since after 60,000 miles. If the dealer doesnt' put in the new engine, I'll change it out after 3,000 and go with Mobil 1 there after. Thanks for the reply.

I'll check with the service dept on if it comes with the new PCV #6. If not, I'll upgrade it myself.

Any recomendations on breaking the new engine in? Easy, hard, variation of both?
 

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Thanks for the info. I am going to change my oil this weekend to Mobil 1 0w40, I have a Napa, Autozone, and VIP autoparts store nearby; do you have any oil filter suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #51
NAPA Gold's are good. Wix.... Purolator PureOne......Champions are okay. If you go Fram, only buy the Extended Guard (not Extra gard, tough gard, double gard, or High mileage). I use pretty much Wal-Mart Supertech filters only, which are rebadged Champion (aka STP). But you can't go wrong with any of the filters you find other than the lower-end Frams. Even those aren't horrible. Just not a good value.
 

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Tfin said:
Hi all,

Long time lurker, short time poster here. I've got a 2003 9-3SE HOT with just over 96,000 miles. Had the infamous oil light start to flicker on me about 2 wks ago. Checked the oil, showed up on the dipstick. Called my dealer who said I should have it towed up to them (luckily my insurance covered the tow fee).

Some back ground:
Bought the car from the dealer with 31,000 on it. It had been a one owner lease out of CT.....all services and updates had been done. When we bought the car we also purchased the Saab Certified extended warrenty (up to 100,000 miles). I had continued to have all the standard services done by my dealer. Semi synthetic was used until after the 60,000 mile service (yeah, the big one). Then I've had full synthetic Mobil 1 in it done my Meineke for the remainder of the oil changes.

Back to the present......fortunatley I had all of my oil service records, of which my dealer submited to Saab. Saab then approved them to go ahead and crack the engine (valve cover/oil pan) to search for the dreaded sludge. My dealer called me back last Fri and said they had good and bad news. The bad news was that they indeed found sludge. The good news was that Saab had approved a brand new engine be installed under warranty!!! Said I'd probably still have to bay around $450-$475 for wear items that wouldn't be covered under the warranty but considering the new engine plus labor is going to be around $9,000, that's a small price to pay.

Anyone have any idea if a "new engine" comes with the updated PCV kit, or is this something I'll have to install myself. Also with a new engine, should I be running full synthetic from the get go, or start with semi?
They won't replace the PCV kit for free so do that ASAP and be sure to clean the oil passages on the valve cover as well, they may be partially or totally clogged.

Good luck and congrats on the new engine :cheesy:
 

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hkayssi said:
They won't replace the PCV kit for free so do that ASAP and be sure to clean the oil passages on the valve cover as well, they may be partially or totally clogged.

Good luck and congrats on the new engine :cheesy:
Will do, and thanks! :cool: Can't wait to get it back.....driving around in the Pontiac Grand Prix they gave me for a loaner just isn't the same. ;)

Anyone have any recommendations on break in proceedures?
 

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Maybe
needs a sludge and oil forum... kind've a "consolidation" area for all of this stuff... I can't even begin to imagine how many threads and posts there are about this on the entire forum.:eek:

The irony is most of us that have dealt with this in one form or another truly love these cars... I'm considering another '99 9-3 as we speak as a second car for myself... as hard as that is to admit after being SO p.o.'d at Saab in the first place.:roll:... although Volvo's were looking pretty good after spending $4k on the wifes 9-3.

Oh well...
 

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Good Morning - I am very new to the Saab family and have recently purchased a used Saab ('01 93) - i've already posted a few times to get some info on the car and happens to be now i'm looking for info on the "proper oil" for the oil changes. I've read this post and recieved alot of good information. My question is this:

Out of the entire list of Oil Manufactures w/ Recommend Oil Viscosity & Weight, is there one that performs the best?

I just purchased a 5qt. container of the Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic Blend 10w-30 but i'm beginning to second guess myself. This is my first turbocharged vehicle and a Saab to boot. I haven't checked my PVC yet nor do I have the resources (yet) to drop the pan and check the oil pick up. Any recommendation can you guys give on how to make sure I can prevent the imfamous "sludge" build-up as well as if the Valvoline is a good oil to use? Thanks for your time and input. Your response will be greatly appreciated.
 

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This is my first saab as well. I am using Castrol syntec 10w40 right now, and I am not happy with it; I don't think it's the oil per say, but I think the 10w is too think for my climate. I will be changing to Mobil 1 0w40 soon.

One thing to keep in mind as pointed out to me is that most of the wear is during startup, so keep the oil thin when cold and thick when warm like a 0w40.

Not sure if it's a good example because it's on Mobil 1's website, but a guy supposedly has 1 million miles on his saab using mobil one oil.
 

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Blk01saab93

It is best to go FULL synthetic rather than a blend. Use xW-40.

Mobil 1 0W-40
Amsoil 0W-40
If you want the best (and most expensive) as they are Group IV synthetics.
Or you can go with a Group III synthetic.
Valvoline Syntec
Castrol Synthetic (forget the the name - plenty of references on this site)
or others
I use Shell Rotella T 5W-40 synthetic. :)
 
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