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Hi, hope you an help. Have an oil change issue. I have recently changed the oil to Mobil1 05/40. Now the engine runs rough as a dog and has a slight vibration. hope you can shed some light on the matter.
Thanks 2004 93 t arc Petrol....
 

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Hi, hope you an help. Have an oil change issue. I have recently changed the oil to Mobil1 05/40. Now the engine runs rough as a dog and has a slight vibration. hope you can shed some light on the matter.
Thanks 2004 93 t arc Petrol....
I suggest you start a new thread of your own.
 

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Well after all this back and forth its certainly a lot to think about. Mobile 1 is definitely the most commonly available but my local AZ has Rotella T6 so I'm going to give that a try.
 

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Hi Diglett, T6 is a great oil & you should have no problems.

A couple of questions:
What oil were you using previously?
How long are you planning to go between Oil Change Intervals (OCI)?

A couple of things to keep in mind:
If you're going for 10,000 mile OCI, change the filter half way thru. From my Used Oil Analyses, I found that it really helps prolong the life of the oil.

Cold flow (winter starting) is not as good with a Group III oil (T6) as it is with a Group IV oil (Mobil 1). But honestly, you really have nothing to worry about. Unless you can't help but worry about things like that. ;)
 

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Yes, I do tend to worry about startup wear especially in the winter since this is when I need the car most. I didn't know that T6-type oil was worse for winter starts...

I bought this car recently so I don't know exactly what Group of oil is in it. I know it is full synthetic, but thats about it. This is going to be my first oil change. I have a new Mann filter as well.

What type of oil should I get if I'm playing it safe? I'd like to use 5W-40 as it seems like a decent all-weather oil for my temperate climate. I'll probably be changing my oil out every 5k miles or less, I do a lot of stop and go driving.
 

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For 5k mi OCI you could really use just about any full syn. Keep in mind that Saab recommends an ACEA A3/B3 rated oil for better durability & protection.

Personally, I favor Mobil products simply because I believe (from several years of research) that they put the most R&D into their products to get the best product on the market. But that's just my bias & others favor other products for their own reasons.

I'd specifically recommend one of these for our Swedish turbos:

Mobil 1:
0W-40
5W-40
10W-40 High Mileage
10W-30 High Mileage
All of these meet ACEA A3/B3, so they provide a stronger film of oil & have better additive packages. (5W-40 actually meets ACEA E7, so it has an even more fortified additive package than A3/B3/B4.)

Amsoil 5W-40

Rotella T6 5W-40

There are other good oils out there, too.

My first choice would be 0W-40 as a year-round oil in a northern climate. Here in Northern CO we have summer highs around 100F & winter lows around 0F. When we had our '99 9-3 T5, 10k mi OCIs weren't a problem (especially once I added mid-OCI filter changes). Now that we have an '02 9-3 T7, I've been sticking with 5k mi OCIs due to the greater stress the T7 system places on the oil. Of course, I have Oil Compulsive Disorder :cheesy:, so I've been using M1 5W-40 in my 9-3 & 0W-40 in my n/a C900. As long as you keep it topped up to the 'Full' mark on the dipstick you should be fine with any of these oils in your climate.
 

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Thanks for the info. I figured the differences in oil weren't too extreme, but if there are significant benefits to a certain oil type/regimen, I'll do it.

Rotella T6 5W-40 is quite a bit cheaper, and my local stores don't seem to stock M1 5W-40. 0W-40 is readily available, so I might give that a try.

Based on this thread I was under the impression that Mobil 1 products didnt provide enough oil pressure at the same weights, and there was some talk of shearing issues. Honestly I don't know squat about the science that goes into these products or the accuracy of tests. I don't have a tuned engine so I think I should be fine as long as I'm in the ballpark. The one quality I'm most concerned about is whatever flows well during cold starts and lubricates parts effectively in the shortest amount of time, while still maintaining proper protection once the engine is warm.
 

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Thanks for the info. I figured the differences in oil weren't too extreme, but if there are significant benefits to a certain oil type/regimen, I'll do it.

Rotella T6 5W-40 is quite a bit cheaper, and my local stores don't seem to stock M1 5W-40. 0W-40 is readily available, so I might give that a try.

Based on this thread I was under the impression that Mobil 1 products didnt provide enough oil pressure at the same weights, and there was some talk of shearing issues. Honestly I don't know squat about the science that goes into these products or the accuracy of tests. I don't have a tuned engine so I think I should be fine as long as I'm in the ballpark. The one quality I'm most concerned about is whatever flows well during cold starts and lubricates parts effectively in the shortest amount of time, while still maintaining proper protection once the engine is warm.
I agree on the flow issue... 80-90% of wear happens at start up. So, I was using 0w-40. However, I had increased consumption with it. If you check the actual viscosity measurements, it's on the low side for a 40 weight. I switched to Rotella 5W-40 and I was much happier. Rotella has a higher viscosity even though it's also rated as a 40 weight. Also, the guys with pressure gauges report better pressure with it. Cold starts seem unaffected, but science tells me I get slightly slower flow with a 5W vs. a 0W. M1 meets the shear specs, but I have seen some argument that it still breaks down more than desired after some wear. Some guys reported low pressure after a hot run.
 

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Filter Question

I've been running PureOne filters on all of my cars (including 2 saabs) for years. I recently got a smokin' deal on some Mobil 1 filters ($4/ea) and got to thinking about our Saab engines and these filters. I use the bigger "PT Cruiser Turbo" size as well with Rotella T-6.

My question, which may not have an answer, is in our cars does it really make much of a difference? What I am effectively doing is running a bigger filter, which in a normal application would allow for an extended oil change interval. I am not doing any long runs in the Saabs: 5k on the 9-5 that sees mostly highway; 3k on the 9-3 that is probably about 35% highway.

I send my oil out to Blackstone. They think I can go longer on the 9-5, and after a series of tests helped me choose 3k for the 9-3.

I know that the filter change is mainly because they eventually fill up with crap and will go into bypass mode. I have no idea how to tell if the filter is actually full of crud after I change it.

I know that I am changing oil when the TBN number gets low and Blackstone never reports anything unexpected in the oil which leads me to wonder why I run the big filter and why I would ever have a need to get the expensive M1 or K&N filters.

I may have inadvertently answered my own question as I type this, but with failed engines is there ever any correlation with the filter? It is my understanding that the sludging happens when the oil breaks down and sticks to things, but would the bigger better filter trap more of the almost sludge or is it purely for going longer distances?
 

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asoduk:

I think your point about clogging and the bypass is well taken... but first, you should realize that in an auto engine, most of the oil is not filtered. That's by design. You could check relief pressures and do some calculations. I think you'd find that at higher RPM, most of the oil is bypassing the filter.

Back to your clogged filter question. This dates back to the early 90's a senior engineer from a very major filter manufacturer (after a few drinks) confided that their tests showed auto filters clogging in 1000 miles. Engines are a lot cleaner now, but I imagine they still clog up long before your oil change.

You'd have to run some serious tests though to find out what the flow rate was and whether it equaled the bypass valve opening point... and opening pressure can vary significantly. In fact, one of the reasons that I don't run the larger filters is that when I started to look into it, the increase in the bypass pressure had me worried that the engine would have low pressure when the filter was clogged before the bypass let it through.
 

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dropping oil pan, first time working on car :D couple questions..

alright so as i said im dropping my oil pan and this happens to be my first dyi work on my car 2001 9-3 2.0t other then stripping the oil drain plug last week..anyways thanks to my new Haynes manual and all your help on here things are going relatively well. oil's draining now got the O2 sensors off exhaust is next. but as i said i stripped the drain plug and therefore went to a local oil change shop just because i needed it done before work and i was under the impression that the washer was more of a gasket..as in not metal

i did notice some minor oil seepage around the plug this past week but it looked to me as if it was coming from somewhere higher in the engine, is this metal washer correct? also in the manual im using they disconnect the right engine mount and prop the engine up but i was just planning on bumping the tranny up as you mostly all said to do...the car they worked on specifically in the book is an 01 SE convertible..im gona go drop the exhaust and check back in hopefully someone see's this haha
 

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Not to be a grammar-dick, but some capital letters would make your posts easier to read... and that makes them easier to respond to.

The washer is made of copper. The manual says to replace them every change, but unless they get scored, they are probably good for a few rounds. Worst you get is very minor seepage. The interface is NOT designed to work without a washer.

You don't need to do anything with the engine or tranny. Just take out the front and mid subframe bolts, then put about 3" of wood between the subframe and the unibody. That will give you give you enough clearance to get the pan out.
 

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Thanks alot, I shall try to be more grammatically correct in the future. My sincere apologies. lol you remind me of my brother, I was in a rush when i typed that and I usually don't type much anymore...so yeah. But really thanks I've been scouring the forum here and pretty much settled on your solution before I even wrote this reply, just cut the wood. And this washers definitely not copper, lucky for me theres a True Value 100 yds away.
 

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7quartz

Yeah well I'm never going to pepboys again also they told me to use 10W-30.. Hope this is @ least right full synthetic. Thank god i dident drive it that way.. called saab dealer directly and they were baffled that they would say 7Quarts! so i got a 5Q out and took as much out as necessary. She runs good after the waterpump change too so. thanks for the help guys.
 

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How much to drop oil pan, clean screen, replace PCV valvec etc..

Hi Everyone,

Forgive me if this seems like an obvious question. I have read hundreds of posts but can't get a clear answer to this:

How much (on average) will it cost to bring a 2000-2002 Saab 9-3 to a certified, reputable Saab mechanic and have him drop the oil pan, clean the screen, inspect for damage, etc......???

No, I don't own a 9-3. I had an 89 900SPG that I loved, and I am thinking of picking up an 01 or 02 9-3. I need a hatchback that isn't a joke car, like most of them seem to be nowadays. I would love to be a Saab owner again, but I can't seem to get beyond this oil sludge issue.

I know fully well that buying a decade+ old vehicle is going to come with a host of issues, but first and foremost I would want this issue checked and resolved. That being the case, I need to factor in how much I would be willing to pay for a used vehicle, and then invest some $$$ right at the start to have a reliable (within reason) vehicle for a few years.

Any feedback?

Thanks
 
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