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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Indy Saab mechanic suggested using 20-50w (blend) when blue smoke at start was noticed. NO more smoke, that was at 30k and now at 100k. Changed every 6 months or 5,000 whichever comes first.

-Should the 2000/9-5 be switched over to full Synthetic? 5-40?

-Should pan be pulled to check for sludge?
 

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Even though blue smoke usually points to bad turbo seals, your Garrett turbo probably would not need to be rebuilt if you were seeing blue smoke @ 30K miles.

Yes, you should be using full synthetic and go with what your manual recommends..
I'm using 5W-30 full synthetic

My car got a steady diet of synthetic blend from the dealer up to about 99K miles, when I bought the car at 117K miles, I'm really glad I dropped the oil pan, cleaned it out and cleaned out the oil pickup screen, I felt is was absolutely necessary..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Your Garrett turbo probably needs to be rebuilt if you were seeing blue smoke way back then, the seals were worn out....
Yes, you should be using full synthetic and go with what your manual recommends.. I'm using 5W-30 full synthetic
Thanks for the reply!

Found this post which says blue smoke indicates crank vent problems:
http://www.mitt-eget.com/saab/information_ccv_en.shtml

Have seen no smoke though since the switch to 20-50 60,000 miles ago.

Will plan to check the pan etc.
 

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Hi,
Can I ask why you want to change?
You have been running 20/50 for 60K, I assume with no prob's. Just do regular engine flush and oil change (5K).
You may very well open a whole can of worms by going to a light grade oil.

If it aint broke don't fix it would be my motto here.

Regards,
John
 

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Thicker oil can mask tiny leaks that thinner oil can get through.
All the more reason to use the correct oil. If you've rebuilt a cylinder head, you would see all of the tiny passages oil has to flow through. Leaving well enough alone might work well for a Toyota, but it's not a good game plan for a Saab.
My motto for my Saab is, "Fix it before it has the chance to break and leave you stranded".
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Can I ask why you want to change? You have been running 20/50 for 60K, I assume with no prob's... You may very well open a whole can of worms by going to a light grade oil.
That was my thought until I found 20-50 is getting harder to find. I tend to drive the Aero the same way I drive my Cooper and look for windy roads with both - plus live in a warm climate.

The common 0-30 might be great for cooler climes but I am thinking if I do switch it would be to 5-40.

As to Toyotas I remember a Click 'n Clack caller saying he had 140k on his and was about to sell it. Wanted to know if he should change the oil as HE NEVER HAD. Their answer was a definite no.
 

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That was my thought until I found 20-50 is getting harder to find. I tend to drive the Aero the same way I drive my Cooper and look for windy roads with both - plus live in a warm climate.

The common 0-30 might be great for cooler climes but I am thinking if I do switch it would be to 5-40.

As to Toyotas I remember a Click 'n Clack caller saying he had 140k on his and was about to sell it. Wanted to know if he should change the oil. Their answer was a definite no.
You should be running 100% synthetic no matter what.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Follow up

Just checked, no sludge, good pickup tube and PVC.

Diet of 20-50W every 4,000 miles seems to have been well digested.
 
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