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Discussion Starter #1
So - I've put 17,000 miles on my car since I bought it last January. In those 17K, I've been using Castrol Semi-Synthetic. From service records, the previous 93,000 miles were a mix of Castrol dino oil and Castrol Semi-Synthetic.

Should I risk switching to full Mobil 1 synthetic now, or should I just continue with the 5W-30 Castrol Semi-Syn??

Also, would switching to a different viscosity hekp out the engine any, and if so, which ?

Anyone with experience in doing this? I'm worried that full synthetic would knock gunk loose from the nooks and crannies...
 

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I think switching to full syn. can nock loosen up some gunk, but i dont think this would be a big problem. I've heard that switching back to non syn. is more of a problem because the seals become smaller with syn oil and then they do not seal as tightly if you go back to regular. I think you may run into a slight problem but if you run some oil through the engine and get all the gunk out you should be fine.
 

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yea , i have just been doing full syn at mine at 110k. Got about 10gallons worth sitting in my garage so i think i am all set for awhile. Reminds me to do a changeover this long weekend.
 

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I just had my oil changed at a Saab dealership for a second time (yesterday) on a 1996 900S that I purchased back in June 2003 with 14,500 miles on the clock. The car just turned 23,600 miles.

On both oil changes, the Saab Technician recommended synthetic oil. He advised me that it does reduce wear over the lifetime of the engine, so it would be a worthwhile investment if I were intending to keep the car for 10 years and put alot of mileage on it (which is my plan.)

He also advised that there is NO penalty in switching from one type back to another; according to him, this was just a popular rumor that got started several years ago. Also, he stated that you can put synthetic oil in a relatively new engine and not suffer any sort of problems during the engine's break-in period as well.

So as a result, I am followig his advice and using 10W30 Saab Turbo Oil (fully synthetic) in my 2.3 four banger. It only costs $12 more per oil change than if I used regular Castrol. I think it is an even better deal when compared with something like Jiffy Lube; even though it costs (on average) about $15 more than Jiffy Lube, I am getting a Saab oil filter AND I have a Saab technician go over my car for a quick inspection and lubrication of some areas (like door hinges.) The technician takes his time and lets all of the oil drain out for close to 20 minutes (unlike Jiffy Lube) and then he even takes the car for a quick test drive to check other systems.

I guess I'm rambling a bit off of the subject of synthetic vs. non-synthetic oil, but I think that the service I get at my Saab garage is the best service I have ever gotten anywhere, ever. If they tell me that it's better to use synthetic, then I'm using it.
 

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There are miles of posts on this site about dino vs. syn. I'm a synthetic believer, all the tests prove it reduces wear and has higher resistance to heat, plus lower pour point. But I don't think you can go too far wrong with a good dino oil and short change intervals.

Here's a 'special interest' forum on oils and lubes. Lots of good info, probably more than you ever wanted to know. There are folks out there that obsess as much about oil as we do about Saabs:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php

One recent thread concerned leakage after switching to syn. Most responses reported little or no increase.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I wasn't trying to get a dino vs. synthetic debate going. I just wanted to know if switching over to synth at over 100,000 miles would cause any weirdness : leaks, etc...

Anyway - I decided to just stick to my tried and true Castrol Semi-Synthetic 5W-30...that's what's been in the car for the last 40K or so and there haven't been any problems, so why mess with a good thing....
 

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The swap to synth at higher mileage CAN cause leaks (it has on two of my vehicles) but it is mostly harmless and you CAN swap back to dino and correct the problem if you desire. It has to do with seal/garsket material swelling/contracting to different proportions when exposed to dino vs synth. A swap back to dino causes any contracted seal/gasket re-expand to it's original dimensions, stopping the leak.

I've been back and forth with synth and dino (and know many others who have as well) and not suffered any ill effects.
 

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toenail said:
The swap to synth at higher mileage CAN cause leaks (it has on two of my vehicles) but it is mostly harmless and you CAN swap back to dino and correct the problem if you desire. It has to do with seal/garsket material swelling/contracting to different proportions when exposed to dino vs synth. A swap back to dino causes any contracted seal/gasket re-expand to it's original dimensions, stopping the leak.

I've been back and forth with synth and dino (and know many others who have as well) and not suffered any ill effects.
I was warned away from synthetic oil in my car for the reasons you mentioned ... and I have over 140,000 miles on my car.
As a matter of fact, I have been using the Quaker State high mileage oil ... it's supposed to help all of the gaskets / seals.
I used it in my '93 Hyundai Elantra with 200,000 miles on it and never saw a leak or oil related break down ...

Any comments on the high mileage oils?
 

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bearclaw said:
There are folks out there that obsess as much about oil as we do about Saabs
Are you saying we are obsessed about our cars? :eek:

Seriously though, how can anyone be into oil as much as we are into our cars? :wink:
I can not for the life of me imagine what they would talk about ... "I ran some Quaker State against Valvoline the other night ... it must have been the weather conditions because the Valvoline ran thinner ..." :eek: :wink:
 

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Scott- I *believe* that the high mileage oils are intended to do just that, keep the seals/gaskets in a full state of swell to reduce leakage. That said, I'm always a little leary of oils with many additives. I've read that both additives and wide viscosity ranges (5-40 etc) contribute to premature oil breakdown. I'm paranoid and do a maximum of 3K between changes anyway.

Also to add to the confusion, my Saab mechanic said he uses dino and saw no need for me to switch at 75K, he never has, and has never had any issues. PO used Saab semi-synth for the 1st 75K and as yet I'm undecided about what I'll use.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'd be leary of using a "high mileage" oil starting only AT the high mileage. All the added detergents are sure to start knocking build-up loose...and I'm 99.99999% sure all that loosened gunk won't go to the oil filter before it circulates through the engine
 

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i just had my oil changed and used 10-30 quaker state peak performance. we had a couple qt.s at the dealership so i used it. i needed a change bad b/c i was planning on going to VA for turducken day. didn't change the tranny fluid yet. i'll do that in about 2k.


i should be using 10-40 for my 2.3 correct. i previously used Mobil 1 synthetic in there and then had it done at the dealer 7k ago.

this is my 3rd oil change since i've owned the car.

in a couple weeks i'm going to give the car another service
114k 96 900S
change the tran fluid, fuel filter, engine oil &filter.
 

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Are you saying we are obsessed about our cars?
Jeez,do ya think?!!!

Haha, next question...

Seriously though, how can anyone be into oil as much as we are into our cars?
You should check out the site. Imagine the dino vs. synthetic debate X 100, plus debating everyone's oil analysis reports and the significance of various readings, etc., to make the case that one oil is better than another, plus guys that sell oil trying to put their particular spin on the argument... It's another illustration of the amazing web, where you can make a major ongoing dialogue out of almost anything.
 

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squishmann said:
i just had my oil changed and used 10-30 quaker state peak performance. i should be using 10-40 for my 2.3 correct. i previously used Mobil 1 synthetic in there and then had it done at the dealer 7k ago.

this is my 3rd oil change since i've owned the car.

in a couple weeks i'm going to give the car another service
114k 96 900S
change the tran fluid, fuel filter, engine oil &filter.
I have the same car/engine as you (Only my '96 is super low mileage, at least for the time being :wink: )

I think that 10W30 is probably the best weight to put in our cars 'cause of where we live (cold winter weather make having a lighter-weight oil a little easier on the ngine during cold starts.) Durng hot weather if you see your car running a *little* warmer than usual, or if you begin to see small pools of oil start to develop under your car where it's been parked overnight, you may want to try and use a heavier weight oil to try and remedy the problem.

Even though you can run a little longer on synthetic oils, I think that you might want to make a habit of observing the 5,000 mile recommended interval for oil changes. It's only a few dollars difference between synthetic and non-synthetic oils, and 5,000 miles seems (to my humble opinion) to be a good interval for changing even the top-end synthetics.
 

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GreenHornet said:
I think that 10W30 is probably the best weight to put in our cars 'cause of where we live (cold winter weather make having a lighter-weight oil a little easier on the ngine during cold starts.)
The official line from Saab (for NG900s) is...
Grade:

Saab Turbo motor oil or motor oil to API SG and CCMC G4/G5 specification at least. These oils contain suitable additives for the engine. We advise against the use of additional additives.

Viscosity:

SAE 10W-30, 10W-40, 5W-30 or 5W-40. If these viscosities are unobtainable, 15W-40 oil may be used, but not during the winter. If 5W oils are used, they must be of fully-synthetic or semi-synthetic type. In countries in which the temperature never falls below +15-20°C, use oil with a viscosity of 15W-50 or 20W-50.
 
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