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ok, i did a search but could not find out where the oil pump is? i am unsure if it is an in pan kind or not.
 

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thanks alot!
how hard would it be to replace?
i did all my mods myself... turbo swap, rotors ect... is that something that can be done in a driveway?
 

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anyone ever change an oil pump?
 

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Maybe PMI has ; I have not, this is "A" mechanic work.

Try posting on the old 900s section.
IMO, the oil pump is much like a human heart - when it goes - thats it - both car and man meet their maker..
 

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IMO, the oil pump is much like a human heart - when it goes - thats it - both car and man meet their maker..
Now earthworm, why would you go and try to scare him like that? :nono; He didn't say why he was changing it or that he ran it with no oil pressure. The oil pump is like any other part of the car, if it breaks, you fix/replace it (if caught in time);) . That being said, these oil pumps are almost "bullet-proof" in that they are a simple mechanical gear drive that actually rides on the crankshaft. I've never heard of one going out on a Saab nor can I find any instances of it on the web unless the car was suffering from sludge and the pickup tube/screen were clogged beyond all hope. In that case, its not really the oil pump you should be worried about...
 

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The pic posted was of the newer, sludg-o-matic pump. If you read Chuck Andrews articles, you'll see how bulletproof it is.:roll::cheesy:
 

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jonny72888 said:
thanks alot!
how hard would it be to replace?
i did all my mods myself... turbo swap, rotors ect... is that something that can be done in a driveway?
I did mine when I replaced my timing/balance components. You'll need large nose pliers to compress the ring that secures the pump in the timing cover, plus crankshaft and pump seals. Since I have auto, I had to be creative in locking up the flywheel, manual would be a lot easier. Crankshaft pulley bolt is around 240lb torque, if my memory serves me right.

If the balance chain sprockets have been shreded, metal pieces would score the pump, as they would be sucked up from the oil pan through the pump on their way to the filter.
In a worst case scenario, new timing cover would be needed if the pump housing in the timing cover was scored badly enough. Checking relief pressure valve for scoring will tell whether or not oil pump might have been affected, and cutting up oil filter might reveal even more.
 

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Discussion Starter #9

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jonny72888 said:
ok, this is what i wanted to hear. i called a saab dealer and they told me that i had to pull the motor out and do it.:roll:

right now the problem is http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112292.
From WIS:


1.Undo the air cleaner and move it aside.

2.Relieve the belt tensioner of strain, using a ratchet handle extension, and insert a 6 mm drill in the hole as shown.

Important !!!
Exercise the utmost care to ensure that the belt tensioner does not break at its end position.

3.Raise the car, take off the right-hand front wheel and remove the cover.
4.Remove the crankshaft pulley and the oil pump circlip. Lift off the pump cover, using a large pair of slip-joint pliers. Extract the pump gears.

To fit:

1.Make sure that the marking on the oil pump ring gear faces outwards and check the position and condition of the O-ring.

2.Insert the pump gears and place the pump cover correctly with the aid of the arrows.

3.Fit the circlip with the chamfer facing outwards and the opening downwards.

4.Fit the crankshaft pulley.

Tightening torque 175 Nm (129.5 lbf ft).

5.Fit the drive belt and check its position on all the pulleys.

6.Fit the cover and the road wheel. Tighten the wheel bolts to a torque of 120 Nm (89 lbf ft).

7.Lower the car to the floor. Relieve the belt tensioner of strain, using a ratchet handle extension, and remove the drill.

8.Fit the air cleaner.

9.Start the engine and run it at idling speed for a short while.

10.Then switch it off and check that the drive belt is correctly positioned.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
tomasz said:
From WIS:


1.Undo the air cleaner and move it aside.

2.Relieve the belt tensioner of strain, using a ratchet handle extension, and insert a 6 mm drill in the hole as shown.

Important !!!
Exercise the utmost care to ensure that the belt tensioner does not break at its end position.

3.Raise the car, take off the right-hand front wheel and remove the cover.
4.Remove the crankshaft pulley and the oil pump circlip. Lift off the pump cover, using a large pair of slip-joint pliers. Extract the pump gears.

To fit:

1.Make sure that the marking on the oil pump ring gear faces outwards and check the position and condition of the O-ring.

2.Insert the pump gears and place the pump cover correctly with the aid of the arrows.

3.Fit the circlip with the chamfer facing outwards and the opening downwards.

4.Fit the crankshaft pulley.

Tightening torque 175 Nm (129.5 lbf ft).

5.Fit the drive belt and check its position on all the pulleys.

6.Fit the cover and the road wheel. Tighten the wheel bolts to a torque of 120 Nm (89 lbf ft).

7.Lower the car to the floor. Relieve the belt tensioner of strain, using a ratchet handle extension, and remove the drill.

8.Fit the air cleaner.

9.Start the engine and run it at idling speed for a short while.

10.Then switch it off and check that the drive belt is correctly positioned.
thank you, i will be doing it as soon as the pump comes in the mail. (back ordered from eeuro)
 

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jonny72888 said:
thank you, i will be doing it as soon as the pump comes in the mail. (back ordered from eeuro)
Ok... Follwup after questioning and help is of the utmost importance. I came back to this thread to see how you made out after seeing a recent question regarding an oil light warning. Sooo, that being said.... did you fix it? How hard was it? Did yo find sludge? Any pictures?

Thanks
-Jim
 
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