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Did you tap into constant or switched for your gauges? My gauge calls for tapping a constant and switched to keep color choice in memory. That being said I was going to tap the green/white in the dash dimmer for switched power, and well I have not figured out what constant I am going to pull.
 

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i have a sunpro sport series 0-100 psi oil gauge, electric. how do i install it? i didnt get instructions with it, im rather good with electrical work. ive done alot of interior lighting and whatnot, so getting it to light up wont be a problem. but how do i find a signal for it to work? im petty sure this has been answered, but i didnt see it. so just incase im asking again.

PMme. i also need to figure out where to get a gauge pod. i cant find a saab 900 gauge pod ANYWHERE online. and im not getting a crappy autozone pod because i dont have a heatgun or the time to try to mold something.
 

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finding a power source isnt the problem, i have no idea where to tap for the pressure signal. eventually i want to get a A/F and boost gauge. but its only an automatic.. i doubt i can put much power through this transmission.
 

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oh thats just sick.. dude.. thanks!!! that will make my life way easier. :) seriously. thanks. im gunna order one in a week or so.
 

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which one is it? this is my first saab, i dont know any of the thread sizes or anything yet. im used to working on toyotas and nissans.
 

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Nice job BUT... l would never plumb pressurized oil out of the engine to a gauge, l`ve seen total engine failures from doing that. The best method is electrical sender/electrical gauge, race car style. Yes,more expensive but ultimately superior in every way. Keep an eye on things and if installed correctly you should be fine, yours looks good. :)
 

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Electric Auto Meter oil pressure gauge for 39 bucks at auto zone.
oreily has them in stock and will price match autozone. SWEET DEAL

COMPLETE with sender!! Never pay retail, To hell with waiting.


BARGAIN.
 

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In my opinion, the ultimate oil pressure gauge setup is something like:

Electric gauge

Sensor/sender combo (single unit with two leads, one to the dummy light on the dash, (preset @ ~7psi), and one lead to the gauge).

M14x1.5 to 1/8 NPT adapter (allows you to run cheap senser instead of $$$ unit with M14 threads)

The sensor/sender combo is what makes it great since you can retain the light on the dash without a stupid T fitting to clutter things up. And those sandwich plates are a last resort option IMO.
 

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Where are ya'll finding the A-Pillar Pods at? I have been looking and have not found any that look like they will fit. Is there anyone making them for Saab cars or will I have to get a universal fit and mold it?

Thanks.
 

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Where are ya'll finding the A-Pillar Pods at? I have been looking and have not found any that look like they will fit. Is there anyone making them for Saab cars or will I have to get a universal fit and mold it?

Thanks.
Yeah, I tried reading through some other threads to see if anyone mentioned in there about which pod they're using, but the best I came up with was an Excursion pod. I remember using a fox body pod in my 97 900, but I can see the pillars are different shape.
 

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Yeah, I tried reading through some other threads to see if anyone mentioned in there about which pod they're using, but the best I came up with was an Excursion pod. I remember using a fox body pod in my 97 900, but I can see the pillars are different shape.
You might try googling, but most of the places I shop online have the gauge pods..

Horsepower freaks, and Genuinesaab have them. HPF has all kinds.. pillar, dashtop, cluster over the steering wheel.. and Genuine has a nice pillar pod.

I'm changing my setup and currently running a pillar setup with boost and wideband a/f that I won't need. Going with different gauges and a different setup.
 

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Wow that setup looks very clean, fantastic idea with the headlight switch, I may have to give it a shot. Nice writeup!
 

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It's a sticky - so this is not a zombie.

Thought I'd add an option for easily mounting the sending unit in an easy to access location - the blocked oil feed for automatic vacuum pumps on the head. If you opt for mechanical gauge you can connect right to the adapter as well.

I used a 12mm banjo adapter with a 1/8" npt female thread on the end that's used for Dodge Ram fuel sensor (GShift GS-FA). The threads in the head are recessed so the entire banjo bolt can be inserted with one copper crush washer to seal. I added a 90 elbow so the sensor mounts parallel to the side of the head. The adapter is way cheaper than a pancake adapter and wiring or routing oil line up top is much easier than down in the grime.

I'm playing around with mounting a pod partially recessed in the center dash vent where the alarm led and light sensor are. If mockup does not look too stupid I might try and 3d print some. I used the light switch location in my 900 but IMO it's not easy to view while I drive. Pix below are installed in an '01 93.
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EDIT - Inaccurate Pressure at Vaccum Pump Port

After getting the Viggen on the road and encountering some separate oil pressure issues, I figured out that the pressure from this port is substantially lower than at other locations including the WIS recommended location by the oil filter/turbo oil feed. At hot idle I was seeing 2-5 psi at the vacuum port vs 9-15 at the turbo feed. Cold startup was 40ish upper port and 60-80 turbo feed. Around 2K RPM with engine hot upper was around 15 vs 20-25 at turbo feed. So you can get a consistent pressure at the upper location but it will not correlate with any specs.


I have since attached a braided line to a single banjo bolt adapter at the turbo feed banjo bolt which I ran up top and connected to my gauge sensor. At least the sensor and wiring are in a clean dry and easy to access location.
 
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