[DuhBayker]

So I’ve got a 2002 9-3 with just under 200k miles on it. I’ve been plagued with problems since I got it, clutch blew out my second day of ownership and then the sludge problem surfaced. My SAAB mech told me all about the sludge problem, then to put dropping the pan and cleaning the screen out first on my list of next repairs. So I had planned to do that in a month or so. Buuut she told me the sign that it’s causing a problem is when the oil light comes on when getting off the freeway.

I took a two hour drive home (didn’t happen on the way to my destination) and the light flickered on. I did what I was told, turned it off and got it towed immediately. I didn’t want to lose my engine. They got it dropped and cleaned out, said I had a mountain of sludge. So all good right? I’ve had it back for a little over a week now. Everything’s great, I love driving this car.

Theeen I took the same drive that I have to take every week or so and on the way back (again, didn’t happen on the way there) the light came on when getting off the freeway. Literally the same exact point too, when I hit the ATL traffic slowdown just south of highway 20. This time I was annoyed so I drove it the 2 miles I had to go to get it home. The light would stay on unless I was giving it gas, but I let it idle a bit when I got home before I turned it off (i was told to regularly do this to save my turbo some grief) and the engine sounds completely normal like it has all week.

I’m frazzled because I just know theres no way I got that amount of sludge back in a week. I’m going to call my Mech and see what’s up when they open on Monday but I wanted to see if anyone here has some advice. I saw some old posts saying it could be the Mech didn’t put on the sealant right and that could sludge up the screen. Before I went into the place asking about that I wanted to check with the SAAB community. I was told this problem comes from heat boiling the oil, so if it means anything it’s been absolutely hot as hell here in GA. Any advice would greatly appreciated.
- a very happy yet concerned new SAAB owner

 

[jvanabra]

Unfortunately if you have low oil pressure problems already, cleaning the pan probably won't make much difference. The point of cleaning is to prevent low oil pressure from happening in the first place... Once it happens, the damage is likely as not already done.

The only thing you can reasonably do at this point is put a mechanical pressure gauge on there to see what you're working with. Running a thicker oil may help alleviate small problems for a short while, but isn't any sort of long term fix.

I'm not sure who told you heat boils oil... I mean, it does, but at not temperatures in a car. Heat thins oil, which is why the problem usually first appears once the engine is hot. It's not a matter of outside temperatures.

 

[cjcopp]

Very good points made above. I'll add easy stuff- check the oil filler tube cap and drain plug, if able. Make sure that the small drain plug gasket is new and not crushed or otherwise crispy. (Quickly plug the hole after removing the plug, or completely change your oil lol.) Check that the filler cap is on correctly and snug. The mechanic should always get these right but you never know, especially if an issue arises immediately after.

 

[Sedrik94]

The gentlemen correctly noted that the first step is to check the pressure on a heated car with a mechanical pressure gauge. this is done in order to exclude a faulty pressure sensor. all sensors except the original are not working properly. if the pressure is really low, remove the engine oil pan. prepare 3 new rubber rings and original sump sealant 90542114 or LOCTITE 518. check the third crankshaft bushing immediately.

 

[Mort]

Duh - I assume you have the correct PCV update installed?
You mentioned dropping the pan, and cleaning - which is good practice. +1.
I just wanted to make sure your car has the PCV installed.
Also, I assume you are using the correct oil grade & type of oil. ie Fully synth - something like Mobil 1.

If you don't have the PCV update installed - and the mechanic didn't advise you about it, then that's a little disappointing.

 

[DuhBayker]

Unfortunately if you have low oil pressure problems already, cleaning the pan probably won't make much difference. The point of cleaning is to prevent low oil pressure from happening in the first place... Once it happens, the damage is likely as not already done.

The only thing you can reasonably do at this point is put a mechanical pressure gauge on there to see what you're working with. Running a thicker oil may help alleviate small problems for a short while, but isn't any sort of long term fix.

I'm not sure who told you heat boils oil... I mean, it does, but at not temperatures in a car. Heat thins oil, which is why the problem usually first appears once the engine is hot. It's not a matter of outside temperatures.

I was told that the reason the sludge happens in the SAABs is the pan’s closeness to the catalytic converter. And that the heat from that amongst some other things boils the oil or whatever it does. I just figured if that was the case maybe the hot days might add to it idk I just wanted to give all the information I could.
I’m going to look into a mechanical gauge to see if that’ll tell me more about my problems.
Thanks for responding!

 

[DuhBayker]

Very good points made above. I'll add easy stuff- check the oil filler tube cap and drain plug, if able. Make sure that the small drain plug gasket is new and not crushed or otherwise crispy. (Quickly plug the hole after removing the plug, or completely change your oil lol.) Check that the filler cap is on correctly and snug. The mechanic should always get these right but you never know, especially if an issue arises immediately after.

Thanks! I’d love to be able to do more on my car by myself but I live in an apartment complex where I can’t jack it up to get underneath. I can do things in the engine bay which won’t require any lifting but that’s about it, so unfortunately I can’t access the oil pan itself unless I take it somewhere. I think the oil filler tube cap is something that I can check, so thank you for the advice. Excuse my ignorance if not.

 

[DuhBayker]

The gentlemen correctly noted that the first step is to check the pressure on a heated car with a mechanical pressure gauge. this is done in order to exclude a faulty pressure sensor. all sensors except the original are not working properly. if the pressure is really low, remove the engine oil pan. prepare 3 new rubber rings and original sump sealant 90542114 or LOCTITE 518. check the third crankshaft bushing immediately.

Thank you, based on what everyone is saying I’m definitely getting a mechanical gauge to see what’s going on!

 

[DuhBayker]

Duh - I assume you have the correct PCV update installed?
You mentioned dropping the pan, and cleaning - which is good practice. +1.
I just wanted to make sure your car has the PCV installed.
Also, I assume you are using the correct oil grade & type of oil. ie Fully synth - something like Mobil 1.

If you don't have the PCV update installed - and the mechanic didn't advise you about it, then that's a little disappointing.

Oof yeah I don’t believe I have the PCV update. My mech never mentioned it and I’m just now hearing about from you and other places while trying to find solutions. They’ve been really great about giving me so much information about my car and what I need to do and be careful with to make sure it lasts me so I’m also a bit disappointed this didn’t come up. Seems like an affordable update so I’m going to talk to my them about it when I bring it in. I’m using full synthetic straight from the SAAB people so I do think I’m good on the kind of oil. Thank you for your response!

 

[jvanabra]

The proximity of the cat is not the problem. Lots of old school mechanics don't really understand how modern cars are designed (IME) which is where stuff like that comes from. The cat has been close to the oil pan since 1986, but only a couple years of these cars have this issue.

The problem is that the screen for the oil pickup is quite fine, and the PCV system is inadequate. One or the other would be fine, but the combination of the two means stuff that would either get taken care of by the oil filter or vacuumed out of the crankcase instead stays there, and sludge is formed from it. Probably some driving habits will make the problem worse.

Fifteen-ish years ago Saab updated the PCV system which for all intents and purposes addresses the issue - that's what Mort was suggesting and what 15 years of mechanics should have had eyes on. I still find cars that were not fixed, which is pretty troubling. ("I didn't notice you PCV system is outdated but I can tell you the cat is too close..." ... Whatever.)

Updating the PCV system or cleaning the sump on an otherwise healthy engine will help ensure it lasts, but neither will fix an already damaged engine. You gotta get a gauge on there to get a sense of what the damage looks like. Slightly low oil pressure can be reasonably address short term by using a 10w or if you live in a hot climate a 15w oil. It's a bandaid, it won't last. Severely low oil pressure means you are rebuilding the bottom end. Be sure you take care of the problem before you cause irreparable damage that will require a new engine.

The ONLY next step is a gauge. Don't spend money anywhere else til you do that.

 

[DuhBayker]

The proximity of the cat is not the problem. Lots of old school mechanics don't really understand how modern cars are designed (IME) which is where stuff like that comes from. The cat has been close to the oil pan since 1986, but only a couple years of these cars have this issue.

The problem is that the screen for the oil pickup is quite fine, and the PCV system is inadequate. One or the other would be fine, but the combination of the two means stuff that would either get taken care of by the oil filter or vacuumed out of the crankcase instead stays there, and sludge is formed from it. Probably some driving habits will make the problem worse.

Fifteen-ish years ago Saab updated the PCV system which for all intents and purposes addresses the issue - that's what Mort was suggesting and what 15 years of mechanics should have had eyes on. I still find cars that were not fixed, which is pretty troubling. ("I didn't notice you PCV system is outdated but I can tell you the cat is too close..." ... Whatever.)

Updating the PCV system or cleaning the sump on an otherwise healthy engine will help ensure it lasts, but neither will fix an already damaged engine. You gotta get a gauge on there to get a sense of what the damage looks like. Slightly low oil pressure can be reasonably address short term by using a 10w or if you live in a hot climate a 15w oil. It's a bandaid, it won't last. Severely low oil pressure means you are rebuilding the bottom end. Be sure you take care of the problem before you cause irreparable damage that will require a new engine.

The ONLY next step is a gauge. Don't spend money anywhere else til you do that.

Heard loud and clear, I’ll get a gauge and get that checked out before I go back to the mech for anything. Thanks for all of your help and knowledge.

 

[DuhBayker]

I am looking at installing the mechanical pressure gauge and it does look like I need to jack it up is that correct?

 

[Boy-racer]

So I’ve got a 2002 9-3 with just under 200k miles on it. I’ve been plagued with problems since I got it, clutch blew out my second day of ownership and then the sludge problem surfaced. My SAAB mech told me all about the sludge problem, then to put dropping the pan and cleaning the screen out first on my list of next repairs. So I had planned to do that in a month or so. Buuut she told me the sign that it’s causing a problem is when the oil light comes on when getting off the freeway.

I took a two hour drive home (didn’t happen on the way to my destination) and the light flickered on. I did what I was told, turned it off and got it towed immediately. I didn’t want to lose my engine. They got it dropped and cleaned out, said I had a mountain of sludge. So all good right? I’ve had it back for a little over a week now. Everything’s great, I love driving this car.

Theeen I took the same drive that I have to take every week or so and on the way back (again, didn’t happen on the way there) the light came on when getting off the freeway. Literally the same exact point too, when I hit the ATL traffic slowdown just south of highway 20. This time I was annoyed so I drove it the 2 miles I had to go to get it home. The light would stay on unless I was giving it gas, but I let it idle a bit when I got home before I turned it off (i was told to regularly do this to save my turbo some grief) and the engine sounds completely normal like it has all week.

I’m frazzled because I just know theres no way I got that amount of sludge back in a week. I’m going to call my Mech and see what’s up when they open on Monday but I wanted to see if anyone here has some advice. I saw some old posts saying it could be the Mech didn’t put on the sealant right and that could sludge up the screen. Before I went into the place asking about that I wanted to check with the SAAB community. I was told this problem comes from heat boiling the oil, so if it means anything it’s been absolutely hot as hell here in GA. Any advice would greatly appreciated.
- a very happy yet concerned new SAAB owner

Hey mate,
Your oil issues exactly mimic the oil issues I had with my 1997 900 manual turbo.
I did everything.
Professionally flushed the engine,
New full synthetic Nulon oil and filter, the oil light still came on intermittently.
Renewed the oil light sensor, pulled the sump and inspected the debris grille, nothing.... didn't make sense.
Well, guess what it was?
An engine flush is good but it doesn't get it ALL out....the oil dump valve under the oil pump...easy to get to, undo the bolt, carefully prise out the small piston and check it for wear...mine was worn, and the sludge inside the chamber was evident, the flush could reach it, so those little clumps would find there way back into the motor, clog somewhere and bring my light back on.
Another flush AFTER the dump chamber was cleaned and new dump valve fitted....no more oil light, no more issues,
Boy racer

 

[cjcopp]

Thanks! I’d love to be able to do more on my car by myself but I live in an apartment complex where I can’t jack it up to get underneath. I can do things in the engine bay which won’t require any lifting but that’s about it, so unfortunately I can’t access the oil pan itself unless I take it somewhere. I think the oil filler tube cap is something that I can check, so thank you for the advice. Excuse my ignorance if not.

No ignorance detected. We all do what we can with what we've got. Study up on here and elsewhere on the interwebs and you'll be fine. Find a mechanic you're happy with, but you'll need some loot to keep her going. 👍
Maybe these sites will help -

The Saab Tech Wiki

www.saabwiki.info

Saab DIY at platonoff.com

1997 – NG900 1997 | SAAB Workshop Information System

 

[Mort]

The PCV update #6 kit doesn't cost that much, and it's simple to install. It's worthwhile if you're going to keep the car long term. Hopefully you get your oil pressure sorted.

 

[Fast_Ed]

I’ve had oil pressure issues on my viggen for the last 50k or so.. there is no sludge in my engine (it’s been apart many times) and I’ve checked the main bearings on several occasions (they are within spec.. in fact on the tight end of the spec). Been running a mechanical gauge for quite a while. Oil pressure spikes to 70-80 psi cold idle then rapidly declines as heat gets into the oil. With rotella 5w-40, I’ll see less than 10psi on a 90 degree day after a 40mile highway drive that includes plenty of 5th gear boosting. Scary.. and keeps me from driving it hard on hot days. The car stays around the 10psi/1krpm range that is minimally acceptable for many…. Just.

I recently switched to a 20w 50 synthetic with correct ACEA ratings and I’m never under 10psi after a highway drive. Typically beating the 10psi/1krpm by 5 psi in normal driving. Been about 1500miles at this point.

I recommend none of this.. just telling you what I’ve observed. Also, I’m fully aware that someday I’ll need to either retire the old girl or buy a used 9-5 aero engine. It’ll probably be the latter…. But until I start getting bad noises, I’m driving this car.

I want to do an oil temperature gauge but haven’t wanted to go full fast and furious gauge pod setup in my daily driver.

good idea to get the oil pressure gauge.. let us know what you observe. And good luck!!

 

[Deskmechanic]

Check your cooling fan resistor. The high speed fan comes on at 113c (235f) coolant temp. Oil runs a bit hotter usually which means it is very thin and you could have pressure problems.

pVC update won’t make much difference at this point tbh, but switch over anyway.

 

[AUSSIE900]

The PCV update #6 kit doesn't cost that much, and it's simple to install. It's worthwhile if you're going to keep the car long term. Hopefully you get your oil pressure sorted.

What the mort ? ( cheap yes ) simple well yeah its simple, no science. but you want TINY hands and a lot of patience to get the suggested pathways right ! I find them a real B of a job ! and includes removing the cable duct that runs above the fuel rail ....sorry its just a bit raw at the moment , Fitted mine last night on the rebuild I have been working on , I made the very bad mistake of not doing it all while the engine was sitting on an engine stand , Nah I will do that when the motor is back in , BAD call .
TO the OP , as has been said many times and as you realise , Get some real oil pressure readings , trying anything alse at this stage is good money after bad. If it has low pressure then consider your plans from there , but Pcv kits , different oil specs or change intervals are not fixing the problem . If it does have genuinely low prssure , then likely possibilties are Balance shaft bearings are damaged , turbo damage , Bottom end bearings , Starvation damage to valve train , so Cam and journals , timing chain and guides etc etc . Is it rattly sounding in the top end ?

I am hoping you have a dodgy sensor

 

[Mort]

Sorry - I didnt want to confuse any issues here. I just wanted the OP to realise that a PCV kit is important for OG9-3 cars.
Maybe I should have said - Relatively simple for a shop to install....

 

[Cirr]

So I’ve got a 2002 9-3 with just under 200k miles on it. I’ve been plagued with problems since I got it, clutch blew out my second day of ownership and then the sludge problem surfaced. My SAAB mech told me all about the sludge problem, then to put dropping the pan and cleaning the screen out first on my list of next repairs. So I had planned to do that in a month or so. Buuut she told me the sign that it’s causing a problem is when the oil light comes on when getting off the freeway.

I took a two hour drive home (didn’t happen on the way to my destination) and the light flickered on. I did what I was told, turned it off and got it towed immediately. I didn’t want to lose my engine. They got it dropped and cleaned out, said I had a mountain of sludge. So all good right? I’ve had it back for a little over a week now. Everything’s great, I love driving this car.

Theeen I took the same drive that I have to take every week or so and on the way back (again, didn’t happen on the way there) the light came on when getting off the freeway. Literally the same exact point too, when I hit the ATL traffic slowdown just south of highway 20. This time I was annoyed so I drove it the 2 miles I had to go to get it home. The light would stay on unless I was giving it gas, but I let it idle a bit when I got home before I turned it off (i was told to regularly do this to save my turbo some grief) and the engine sounds completely normal like it has all week.

I’m frazzled because I just know theres no way I got that amount of sludge back in a week. I’m going to call my Mech and see what’s up when they open on Monday but I wanted to see if anyone here has some advice. I saw some old posts saying it could be the Mech didn’t put on the sealant right and that could sludge up the screen. Before I went into the place asking about that I wanted to check with the SAAB community. I was told this problem comes from heat boiling the oil, so if it means anything it’s been absolutely hot as hell here in GA. Any advice would greatly appreciated.
- a very happy yet concerned new SAAB owner

Hello, No need to panic, check with your mechanic if the O-rings of the suction pipe and crosspipe were changed when they don't the result is lack of oil pressure and the blimking signal in dashboard...no need to panic, better make sure he did, those O-rings become toast in a few years, use always NEW VITTON seals all around your car. Cheers!