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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my first post so excuse the long-windedness. I bought a 2002 93 vert with 63kmi in August. The not quite white with a blue top caught my eye badly. IN the three months that I've owned the car I have fixed:
Power antennae (broken off in the reel)
CD changer (PO spilled glue and broke the ejector button)
SID ribbon cable (really easy with the tool)
Coolant flush
Trans fluid drain and fill.
Took drivers airbag off to fix horn.
put it back on horn worked once doesn't work now.
I am still afraid to do the clockspring. I need a good video. Just for confidence.
My current issue is the oil leaking from somewhere in addition to the timing cover seal/oil pump o-ring. I have confidence in my abilities to do that job
but something is leaking higher up.
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Pics are upside down
I'm putting an order together for the cover seal and oil pump o-ring
What else should I get? I've saved a ton of money on this car already
so I will buy parts, and I want good ones. I'm going for likelihood here.
I've been lurking hard on this site for a couple months now and really want to thank all of the people that take their time to help others ;ol;
On deck is a NSS jumper with a momentary switch
Block heater
Fuel filter
Throttle body needs cleaned
Convertible top has some hangups. Works but not perfectly.
Suspension upgrade
I really like this car and I know Saabs are winter monsters but I can't have it leaking at all. Not really interested in taking it to the indy yet either.
 

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Take a look at the o-ring and seal at the chain tensioner and also the oil pressure sender that is located behind the starter. Before you remove the tensioner, be sure you read up on how to properly remove the tensioner spring and resetting the tensioner. The oil pressure sender is a pain to get to because you need to remove the starter to get to it. There's a youtube video on it.

If your leak is near the pulleys, it could be the tensioner o-ring or valve cover. If the leak is on the firewall side of engine block in the middle dripping on or near the exhaust, there's a good chance it's the oil pressure sender.
 

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I did this recently on a 2002 and you'll find some video links for the chain tensioner in this thread http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=436626&highlight=leak Order the washer and o-ring for it if you're putting in an order.

If you wash off that spattered oil with brake cleaner or the like, you might be able to see where it's actually leaking from better.

The PCV system should be on the list to get the latest upgrade, if not done already. That might help with oil leaks too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey thanks for the responses guys. I added the tensioner seal and screw o ring I think I'll get a sending unit while I'm at it. I also got filter housing rubber just because.
Is/are oil delivery and oil pickup tubes the two oil lines going into the filter housing?
is the Oil Valve Seal washer the one on the side of the filter housing, under the big nut you see when looking at the oil filter from the front? I did take the wheel and plastic cover off inside the fender well to clean up the front of the engine I'll jack it up and do the brake fluid and degreaser to see exactly what's up on the firewall side of the engine.
Thanks again Remo and Danno
 

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The oil pressure relief valve is located on the bottom of the timing cover, that has a seal washer, there 'big nut' on the front of the filter housing retains the oil thermostat, again there is also a seal washer for that. Unless you feel that either the oil pressure relief valve is sticking, there are problems with the oil thermostat or you have oil leaking from either location (which is rare if they haven't been touched) then they can just be left alone.
 

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The oil delivery tube, and oil pick up tube are all in the pan. You'll see them when you're dropping your oil pan and cleaning the sludge from the oil pick up tube... (and you'll need those three o-rings for the job)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@ Jake: thanks I'll leave these alone and start with the chain tensioner and I think I'll add the sending unit to my order. For after the oil pump seal job of course.
@ Danno I got the assumed sale there. I'll get those seals too but I won't be able to do the pan till spring. I am really curious as to the condition of the screen and afraid to let it go any longer than that. That's a big job for me. I are carpenter. I ordered my block heater today and I am realizing what a task it is to install. I think if I can get that my oil pan will just be a pita.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got my stuff from eeuro and put the front oil seal/oil pump cover o ring in yesterday. Fairly easy with an electric impact wrench for the harmonic balancer bolt. Seal was leaking pretty good not so sure about the cover but whatever.
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I used two allen wrenches and channel locks to work the circlip. This proved to be not challenging.
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All done, running no leak here anymore. On to the other ones. I got some good light on the chain tensioner and it is leaking but not much.
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OK so 34$ for the seal for the genuine saab thing.
10$ for the O-ring or something like that. Took about 2 hrs because I am old and slow. I saw nothing but shiny clean metal in the oil pump. No gooey oil or sludge but I don't know if that means anything or not. It can't be bad.
My Throttle body has this streak of crap stuck in the bend around that whateveritis. I don't want to get too aggressive with it for fear of breaking some chunk of gunk off.
IMG_0604[1].jpg
I am going to get the chain tensioner done today if it warms up a little.
I bought some awesome 10spoke wheels from an SC member in Palisades, new tires included.
Where does excess coolant drain if you overfill? After flushing and new coolant I topped the overflow tank last week, used the car, and was greeted with a green puddle in the morning. Under and around the water pump is dry. I'm hoping I just overfilled it.
 

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Just replaced my worn pleather steering wheel with a nicked but nicer real leather one outta the junkyard. I did disconnect the battery and let it sit for 10-15 minutes as I read somewhere on here - I didn't need an airbag in the face. (Have the radio code handy when you reconnect it.)
To avoid any clockspring entanglements, the trick is to loosen the large (22mm?) nut under the airbag, but don't take it off completely. With the nut loose, jiggle or yank the wheel loose from its splines, and the nut will keep you from ripping the wheel all the way off, unraveling the clockspring with it. :cool:

...Ummm just re-read your post... if you're trying to replace the clockspring (which I don't think is actually a spring, just the wiring wrapped up like a spring so you can turn the wheel without yanking it, right?)... I'm also a bit intimidated by that idea as well. Sorry if my bright idea wasn't what you needed...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I replaced my clockspring and as it turns out I should have used my tester first. Then when I had the sid out I realized there is some after-market re-rig done. Apparently the horn circuit in the sid was bypassed. Now the horn works but the radio controls don't. I have a new fluid leak. It appears to be the power steering hose coming from the bottom of the reservoir to the rack. On the part diagram it's called return hose. I can't fit my hand down there to work on it for the relay box. Question: can I undo the one nut and move it out of the way, or does it not move much because of all the wires?
 

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Colorado, I bought a used rack from Ebay for $55 (hope it works) and it's supposed to arrive tomorrow. I also ordered new mounts from eeuro, but they are on backorder supposedly to be shipped out this week. My PS is dripping occasionally, but not too bad. I been giving the Lucas power steering stop leak a try, but so far it's not working - I'm about 3/4 through my first bottle.
I will let you know how my rack job comes out. I probably can't get to it for a couple weeks though.
 
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