SaabCentral Forums banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
New to Saab and new to the forum !

Knowing full well what I was getting into, I purchased my first Saab last week. Bought a 2007 95 sedan with 88k from the original owner who took very good care of the car and had all maintenance records for repairs and service.

So far I have.......

-changed the oil and filter (0-30 Mobile1 Synthetic)
-installed new NGK BCPR6EIX-11 gapped to 0.0374 per the owners manual
(I could not find the OE NGK PFR 6H-10's locally)
-replaced the valve cover gasket set
-replaced the front drivers side torque rod on the transmission
-replaced the air filter
-replaced the O-ring on the upper left vent hose going into the valve
cover (old o-ring was hard as a rock and would not seal)
-replaced a missing bolt on the turbo bracket just above the two bolts
for the exhaust bracket
-purchased a Purolator F64857 fuel filter from the dorks at Autozone even
though my fuel filter is built into the fuel pump (should have done my
research before the parts run !)
-pulled the #35 fuse to disable the DRL's
-cleaned the engine with gunk engine cleaner

Most of the oil on the engine was from the valve cover gasket. After 400 miles, the only place I now have oil is on the front corner of the oil pan near the transmission (yes it's oil not tran. fluid) No leaks above the oil pan.

I removed the flywheel inspection cover to look up into the bell housing
and I don't see oil spun all over the flywheel/bell housing. In fact I did not see any oil at all. Am I correct in assuming this is an oil pan issue and not
a rear main seal leak ? Can the rear seal just leak down on the block without being flung all over the flywheel and bell housing ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
867 Posts
New to Saab and new to the forum !

Knowing full well what I was getting into, I purchased my first Saab last week. Bought a 2007 95 sedan with 88k from the original owner who took very good care of the car and had all maintenance records for repairs and service.

So far I have.......

-changed the oil and filter (0-30 Mobile1 Synthetic)
-installed new NGK BCPR6EIX-11 gapped to 0.0374 per the owners manual
(I could not find the OE NGK PFR 6H-10's locally)
-replaced the valve cover gasket set
-replaced the front drivers side torque rod on the transmission
-replaced the air filter
-replaced the O-ring on the upper left vent hose going into the valve
cover (old o-ring was hard as a rock and would not seal)
-replaced a missing bolt on the turbo bracket just above the two bolts
for the exhaust bracket
-purchased a Purolator F64857 fuel filter from the dorks at Autozone even
though my fuel filter is built into the fuel pump (should have done my
research before the parts run !)
-pulled the #35 fuse to disable the DRL's
-cleaned the engine with gunk engine cleaner

Most of the oil on the engine was from the valve cover gasket. After 400 miles, the only place I now have oil is on the front corner of the oil pan near the transmission (yes it's oil not tran. fluid) No leaks above the oil pan.

I removed the flywheel inspection cover to look up into the bell housing
and I don't see oil spun all over the flywheel/bell housing. In fact I did not see any oil at all. Am I correct in assuming this is an oil pan issue and not
a rear main seal leak ? Can the rear seal just leak down on the block without being flung all over the flywheel and bell housing ?
Trying to think what's above that area that you mentioned leaking. Possibly oil press sender. Could be main seal, though that's a tad rare. Or sump itself. Oil lines as well. I had a persistent leak for over a year with much if not all replaced to fix it to no avail. Turned out to be the timing cover. While your leak sounds like it's on the other side (ie. drivers) the only way is to clean the engine completely and try and spot of the leak. Worse case add dye to the oil. I would imagine if it was the main seal you would notice it when peering in, but given my experience with leaks anything is possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the input Paul. I plan on dropping the pan this weekend to reseal it and hope for the best. The dealer wants $1200 for the rear seal job and a local euro shop says $1000 so if it turns out to be the oil pan I will be very happy. Anyone out there had a rear seal leak that can tell me what the flywheel area looks like as far as oil spinning out of the seal ?
 

·
Registered
08 9-5 Aero
Joined
·
2,297 Posts
New to Saab and new to the forum !

Knowing full well what I was getting into, I purchased my first Saab last week. Bought a 2007 95 sedan with 88k from the original owner who took very good care of the car and had all maintenance records for repairs and service.

So far I have.......

-changed the oil and filter (0-30 Mobile1 Synthetic)
-installed new NGK BCPR6EIX-11 gapped to 0.0374 per the owners manual
(I could not find the OE NGK PFR 6H-10's locally)
-replaced the valve cover gasket set
-replaced the front drivers side torque rod on the transmission
-replaced the air filter
-replaced the O-ring on the upper left vent hose going into the valve
cover (old o-ring was hard as a rock and would not seal)
-replaced a missing bolt on the turbo bracket just above the two bolts
for the exhaust bracket
-purchased a Purolator F64857 fuel filter from the dorks at Autozone even
though my fuel filter is built into the fuel pump (should have done my
research before the parts run !)
-pulled the #35 fuse to disable the DRL's
-cleaned the engine with gunk engine cleaner

Most of the oil on the engine was from the valve cover gasket. After 400 miles, the only place I now have oil is on the front corner of the oil pan near the transmission (yes it's oil not tran. fluid) No leaks above the oil pan.

I removed the flywheel inspection cover to look up into the bell housing
and I don't see oil spun all over the flywheel/bell housing. In fact I did not see any oil at all. Am I correct in assuming this is an oil pan issue and not
a rear main seal leak ? Can the rear seal just leak down on the block without being flung all over the flywheel and bell housing ?
Miles don't seem to justify the problems your having. Btw, you can get the NGK PFR-6H's at RockAuto.com if you didn't already know. Not too badly priced.
Just my .02, but I would use 0W40 at the very least.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I agree with you 05Aero21 on the 88k being very low for a rear seal leak to occur. Also given the fact the car was so well maintained by the original owner. Why the 0w40 recommendation ? I am in FL so I guess the jump from 30 to 40 would be better for the summer heat here. We don't really have winter either so should I bump up the 0 to 5w ?
 

·
Registered
08 9-5 Aero
Joined
·
2,297 Posts
I agree with you 05Aero21 on the 88k being very low for a rear seal leak to occur. Also given the fact the car was so well maintained by the original owner. Why the 0w40 recommendation ? I am in FL so I guess the jump from 30 to 40 would be better for the summer heat here. We don't really have winter either so should I bump up the 0 to 5w ?
Well from my knowledge, 0W40 seems to be the most popular choice among other members here and on other sites. There is talk of "shearing" w/the oil already being so thin, that when it gets hot, it's nothing.
I tried M1 5W40 TDT ( turbo diesel) which from my research is safe to run. It has more additives in it. But I noticed more oil consumption over the 0W40. Whether or not regular 5W40 syn. would do the same thing, I don't know.
These engines do run hot, and if most of your driving is city, that furthers the problem. I do 90% hwy, and for the most part 0W seems to hold up well, and the level really never drops over my 4K oil changes. You might experience different results in your climate, but I would upgrade from 30 weight no matter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,951 Posts
Congrats on the purchase; My say on oil is anything full synthetic 5w and higher. Your oil leak could be the oil pan/sump; re-torque the bolts, if that don't work drop the pan and redo the seal. One thing about your list of things done; I don't know about 2007 but Iridium Spark Plugs is not recommended for the Saab 2.3L T7 engines, you might want to consider the correct platinum plugs. Can you post a pic of the leak area?


New to Saab and new to the forum !

Knowing full well what I was getting into, I purchased my first Saab last week. Bought a 2007 95 sedan with 88k from the original owner who took very good care of the car and had all maintenance records for repairs and service.

So far I have.......

-changed the oil and filter (0-30 Mobile1 Synthetic)
-installed new NGK BCPR6EIX-11 gapped to 0.0374 per the owners manual
(I could not find the OE NGK PFR 6H-10's locally)
-replaced the valve cover gasket set
-replaced the front drivers side torque rod on the transmission
-replaced the air filter
-replaced the O-ring on the upper left vent hose going into the valve
cover (old o-ring was hard as a rock and would not seal)
-replaced a missing bolt on the turbo bracket just above the two bolts
for the exhaust bracket
-purchased a Purolator F64857 fuel filter from the dorks at Autozone even
though my fuel filter is built into the fuel pump (should have done my
research before the parts run !)
-pulled the #35 fuse to disable the DRL's
-cleaned the engine with gunk engine cleaner

Most of the oil on the engine was from the valve cover gasket. After 400 miles, the only place I now have oil is on the front corner of the oil pan near the transmission (yes it's oil not tran. fluid) No leaks above the oil pan.

I removed the flywheel inspection cover to look up into the bell housing
and I don't see oil spun all over the flywheel/bell housing. In fact I did not see any oil at all. Am I correct in assuming this is an oil pan issue and not
a rear main seal leak ? Can the rear seal just leak down on the block without being flung all over the flywheel and bell housing ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,709 Posts
Before I do a rear main seal I would definitly reseal the oil pan and change out the sending unit. A rear main seal is allot of work that might not be needed.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Saaber95er for the congrats. I'll be much happier when I can show it off to my buddies and not have the burning oil smell hanging around. They all said "stay away from Saab" so I'm determined to prove them wrong.

Here is a pic before cleaning the area:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/18/p1010678oa.jpg/

and this one is after cleaning,re-torque and a 7 mile drive
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/708/p1010682i.jpg/

You can see the oil originate just out of view and run to the lowest bolt on that side of the pan and eventually drip on the exhaust.

And I do have a set of OE NGK's on order.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,105 Posts
Leaking oil pressure senders drop oil on the exhaust leading you to the leak. Timing chain tensioners leak down the back right near the main pully and drip off the oil pan.

I've been fooled often with oil being blown around. Get a good clean baseline. I like using an air spray nozzle with a suction hose attachment on the bottom. I place the long hose in a can of mineral spirits and blow everything clean.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,615 Posts
Congrats on the purchase; My say on oil is anything full synthetic 5w and higher. Your oil leak could be the oil pan/sump; re-torque the bolts, if that don't work drop the pan and redo the seal. One thing about your list of things done; I don't know about 2007 but Iridium Spark Plugs is not recommended for the Saab 2.3L T7 engines, you might want to consider the correct platinum plugs. Can you post a pic of the leak area?
+1

Iridium can lead to issues with the DIC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok,

I pulled the iridium plugs and put in a set of the OE plugs I ordered from Rock. I will be dropping the pan this weekend and just had a couple of questions:

1) when I reinstall the exhaust do I need new gaskets or should the old ones be fine ?

2) when I put the bead of Loctite 518 on the pan do I need to circle the holes or just get a good bead on the inside edge of them ?

3) how long should I wait before filling with oil and running ?

4) the WIS says I need to remove the turbo bypass hose, is this really needed ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,615 Posts
Ok,

I pulled the iridium plugs and put in a set of the OE plugs I ordered from Rock. I will be dropping the pan this weekend and just had a couple of questions:

1) when I reinstall the exhaust do I need new gaskets or should the old ones be fine ?

2) when I put the bead of Loctite 518 on the pan do I need to circle the holes or just get a good bead on the inside edge of them ?

3) how long should I wait before filling with oil and running ?

4) the WIS says I need to remove the turbo bypass hose, is this really needed ?
When you reinstall the exhaust, you can use the old one (I have).

You don't have to circle the holes - stay on the inside edge. There is a DIY here if you use the search that has a pic.

Fill it right away and run it to make sure there are no leaks (and double check all of the bolts).

It is necessary to remove to get the room in order to get down in and get room for the wrench to put the exhaust on. It's no big deal, takes little time, and is a lifesaver.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks Rarelibra,

I'm looking forward to putting this leak and it's burning oil stink behind me !
I have checked all the potential leak areas pointed out by other members and have read many posts on leak issues. After cleaning the engine and runing it for a week, I have no oil leaking anyplace above the oil pan so if I'm still leaking after this, I must have a rear main seal leak. Will post the results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,615 Posts
Thanks Rarelibra,

I'm looking forward to putting this leak and it's burning oil stink behind me !
I have checked all the potential leak areas pointed out by other members and have read many posts on leak issues. After cleaning the engine and runing it for a week, I have no oil leaking anyplace above the oil pan so if I'm still leaking after this, I must have a rear main seal leak. Will post the results.
take pics!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Dropped the pan this past weekend and cleaned and re-sealed with Loctite 518. Still leaking in the same area dripping off the lowest bolt and on to the exhaust.

This is the area before cleaning:
http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w408/photopail1/1.jpg

This is after cleaning and driving 4 miles. Note the oil starting to gather along the edge of the pan headed towards the lowest bolt.
http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w408/photopail1/2.jpg

This is after dropping the pan and re-sealing it. Leak is in exact same location, gathering at the bolt and dripping on the exhaust.
http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w408/photopail1/4.jpg

I put a perfect bead on the pan and was very careful not to smear it when bolting back up. I can only assume this is a rear seal leak since it leaks in
the same exact spot after all the work to re-seal the pan.

Here is the pan after cleaning (it was not very bad to begin with)
The screen only had a few bits of old gasket material on it.
http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w408/photopail1/Panafterclean.jpg

Here is the crank
http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w408/photopail1/PanRemoved.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
342 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Finally dropped the pan this past weekend. Got a nice bead of Loctite 518 on it after first cleaning and prepping both surfaces. The pan was in great condition along with the crank area and the screen only had a few bits of old gasket material. Put it up on the lift and ran it for ten minutes, no leak ! drove it home 5 miles and got the burning oil smell when I pulled in the garage. DAMMIT!!!!!!!!!!!!! still leaking from the same exact spot. I scanned the WIS and found a service bulletin # 210-2715 that talks about replacing the 3 upper bolts on the rear seal plate of the engine. The symptom is oil leaking between the engine and gearbox. The only thing that doesn't jive is the vin range 73507538 to 83505366 on 2007-2008 2.3's. My vin is 735060442. I may try to torque the bolts a little and see what happens. Does the rear seal plate have a gasket or is it bolted on with a sealant? and has anyone ever replaced or re-sealed the plate ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
Did you scrape the pan and block with a razor blade? I had a leak after the third time I dropped my sump and it was really the case that I had just not done a good enough job of resealing it. I had not done a bad job really, its just one of those things that requires perfection. You have to scrape ALL of the grime off and use just the right amount of RTV. Not too much or too little. I also recommend letting the RTV dry a bit over night otherwise the oil might contaminate the sealer.

There are a lot of too cool for school guys who say to use the non-hardening RTV. To whom I say, use the sealer that has a picture of an oil pan on the packaging. No need to overthink this. Do it right and you'll have a perfect seal.

My rear main seal was perfect after 130k miles, so it seems unlikely to be your problem. The other common culprit is the oil pressure sensor.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top