Sounds like oil cooler is failing. Oil pressure exceeds coolant pressure so oil contaminates coolant. Unfortunately, you have to drain and clean coolant system again. But, not a difficult R&R.Bad news. I got oil in the expansion tank again.
After a couple of local errands without problems, I tried a 15 mike trip, but got a heat spike around mile 13, to 243.Dash gauge crept a tiny bit over dead center. I was on the local highway, at 55 mph, when I heard escaping gas/fluid noises near the exp tank. Checked ECT and it had spiked from constant 180 ish to the 245 ish.
Limped home with the ECT around 200+.
Popped the hood and saw the same black sludge in the new exp tank😩.
Also examined the oil cooler and noticed a light sweat on the wafers. I had cleaned the top so it was clean and dry.
So, was it the oil cooler? Is another possibility a breach in the radiator seals with the transmission cooler?
Transmission fluid is bright red in cooler? Expansion tank contamination looks like oil sludge. But I have clean oil in the system.
Any thoughts about going for the oil cooler?
I hate to say it but way back at the start of this the most likely culprit imho was the oil cooler.It won't be the ATF cooler as you would have milk shake in the gearbox too.Sounds like oil cooler is failing. Oil pressure exceeds coolant pressure so oil contaminates coolant. Unfortunately, you have to drain and clean coolant system again. But, not a difficult R&R.
Yeah, the oil cooler was suspected earlier, Hus Sho and probably you? Several posts indicated the Water Pump as the culprit.Wa
I hate to say it but way back at the start of this the most likely culprit imho was the oil cooler.It won't be the ATF cooler as you would have milk shake in the gearbox too.
My VIN ends with 018290 or 1018290, not sure how to compare. Thanks for the part number. Esaabparts might have one? I use online WIS, plus I’ve seen a video on replacement of the oil cooler. Looks easier than the water pump 😀. Would you trust aftermarket? They don’t look the same? Shape and oil connection ports don’t match?OEM oil coolers ($350!) aren’t available but aftermarket is. Cooler depends on VIN. If your VIN is after 713582 then it’s 55565996. There are a few new on EBay - see one for $80. Need o-rings and maybe the seal for the oil pressure sensor which is mounted to cooler. Do you have WIS?
I wouldn’t use plain water to clean system, you really need to get tiny passages in radiator clean. I’d use a commercial radiator flush but I’d ask around to see what a shop would use.
Actually sent an email to Matt at esaabparts, to ask what my Engine ID was, and which part I need.EDIT: Sorry, wrong info - it's engine #713582. It's actually VIN #81127713 so it looks like your car is earlier which calls for 12786259. Here's what it says in Esaabparts: "Engine ID split occurs near Chassis 81127713 (Sedan/Wagon) and 86007263 (Convertible)". Unfortunately, 12786259 which is $356.84 (!) is back-ordered.
eEuroparts has a ProParts equivalent for $115.47. Again, verify the number!
2040parts.com has a used 55565996 for 199.00.
They say they test and warranty used parts. So maybe that’s worth the extra?
Better option than the 454 part but need the seals/gasket/oring stuff.
Anybody ever use them?
Just googled Saab part# 55565996, and found it.
I purchased the part you found. Here are photos of mine after I got it out.Found this one,
2004-2011 SAAB 9-3 OEM FRONT OIL PUMP COOLER. DONOR CAR: 2009 SAAB 9-3 SEDAN 2.0T ext. code 170 (BLACK) int. code BO2 (BLACK LEATHER). LEFT SIDE IS THE DRIVERS SIDE AND THE RIGHT SIDE IS THE PASSENGER SIDE .www.ebay.com
I would look at the one in your car and see if it is the same.
Thanks Steve, Yeah I was thinking it wouldn’t leak unless under pressure.Doubt you could see any leak. Oil pressure could be 50-70 psi and all it would take is a small split in the internal oil tube to contaminate the coolant. It might not be possible to open up the cooler but it would be interesting to see how it failed. Yes, $37 is excessive - I'd email Matt and ask him if it's a typo..