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Discussion Starter #162
No, it didn’t overflow at all. I’ll double check the garage floor in the am.
But it was quiet near the expansion tank this time
 

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Discussion Starter #163
Bad news. I got oil in the expansion tank again.
After a couple of local errands without problems, I tried a 15 mike trip, but got a heat spike around mile 13, to 243.Dash gauge crept a tiny bit over dead center. I was on the local highway, at 55 mph, when I heard escaping gas/fluid noises near the exp tank. Checked ECT and it had spiked from constant 180 ish to the 245 ish.
Limped home with the ECT around 200+.
Popped the hood and saw the same black sludge in the new exp tank😩.

Also examined the oil cooler and noticed a light sweat on the wafers. I had cleaned the top so it was clean and dry.

So, was it the oil cooler? Is another possibility a breach in the radiator seals with the transmission cooler?
Transmission fluid is bright red in cooler? Expansion tank contamination looks like oil sludge. But I have clean oil in the system.

Any thoughts about going for the oil cooler?
 

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Bad news. I got oil in the expansion tank again.
After a couple of local errands without problems, I tried a 15 mike trip, but got a heat spike around mile 13, to 243.Dash gauge crept a tiny bit over dead center. I was on the local highway, at 55 mph, when I heard escaping gas/fluid noises near the exp tank. Checked ECT and it had spiked from constant 180 ish to the 245 ish.
Limped home with the ECT around 200+.
Popped the hood and saw the same black sludge in the new exp tank😩.

Also examined the oil cooler and noticed a light sweat on the wafers. I had cleaned the top so it was clean and dry.

So, was it the oil cooler? Is another possibility a breach in the radiator seals with the transmission cooler?
Transmission fluid is bright red in cooler? Expansion tank contamination looks like oil sludge. But I have clean oil in the system.

Any thoughts about going for the oil cooler?
Sounds like oil cooler is failing. Oil pressure exceeds coolant pressure so oil contaminates coolant. Unfortunately, you have to drain and clean coolant system again. But, not a difficult R&R.
 

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Discussion Starter #165
Yeah , you mean putting in the oil cooler?
It’s not as involved as water pump.

Yeah, I’ll have to clean system, but that’s not to bad, I think.
 

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EDIT - see post #171.
OEM oil coolers ($350!) aren’t available but aftermarket is. Cooler depends on VIN. If your VIN is after 713582 then it’s 55565996. There are a few new on EBay - see one for $80. Need o-rings and maybe the seal for the oil pressure sensor which is mounted to cooler. Do you have WIS?

I wouldn’t use plain water to clean system, you really need to get tiny passages in radiator clean. I’d use a commercial radiator flush but I’d ask around to see what a shop would use.
 

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Wa
Sounds like oil cooler is failing. Oil pressure exceeds coolant pressure so oil contaminates coolant. Unfortunately, you have to drain and clean coolant system again. But, not a difficult R&R.
I hate to say it but way back at the start of this the most likely culprit imho was the oil cooler.It won't be the ATF cooler as you would have milk shake in the gearbox too.
 

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Discussion Starter #168
Wa

I hate to say it but way back at the start of this the most likely culprit imho was the oil cooler.It won't be the ATF cooler as you would have milk shake in the gearbox too.
Yeah, the oil cooler was suspected earlier, Hus Sho and probably you? Several posts indicated the Water Pump as the culprit.

Chose the Water pump to replace, thinking it had 240k on it anyway.

it was a big job, but not expensive parts cost. So only out couple of hundred for the parts. But it did take me a long time, being a novice.

I’ll do the oil cooler, and hope it eliminates the cross contamination.
Thanks for the opinion on the ATF issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #169
OEM oil coolers ($350!) aren’t available but aftermarket is. Cooler depends on VIN. If your VIN is after 713582 then it’s 55565996. There are a few new on EBay - see one for $80. Need o-rings and maybe the seal for the oil pressure sensor which is mounted to cooler. Do you have WIS?

I wouldn’t use plain water to clean system, you really need to get tiny passages in radiator clean. I’d use a commercial radiator flush but I’d ask around to see what a shop would use.
My VIN ends with 018290 or 1018290, not sure how to compare. Thanks for the part number. Esaabparts might have one? I use online WIS, plus I’ve seen a video on replacement of the oil cooler. Looks easier than the water pump 😀. Would you trust aftermarket? They don’t look the same? Shape and oil connection ports don’t match?

I have a radiator flush product from Blue Devil?
 

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EDIT - see post #171.
Your car is later than 713582 so that should be the part. Esaabparts has two in the US but they're....$454.20! Verify with your VIN. I did a search on that number and saw a new aftermarket one on EBay for $79.99 - up to you. You could also buy used.

I've never replaced one but it's easier than a WP for sure. Don't know about Blue Devil but see if it will dissolve/remove oil residue which is throughout the system, including radiator and heater core.
 

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EDIT: Sorry, wrong info - it's engine #713582. It's actually VIN #81127713 so it looks like your car is earlier which calls for 12786259. Here's what it says in Esaabparts: "Engine ID split occurs near Chassis 81127713 (Sedan/Wagon) and 86007263 (Convertible)". Unfortunately, 12786259 which is $356.84 (!) is back-ordered.

eEuroparts has a ProParts equivalent for $115.47. Again, verify the number!
 

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Discussion Starter #172
EDIT: Sorry, wrong info - it's engine #713582. It's actually VIN #81127713 so it looks like your car is earlier which calls for 12786259. Here's what it says in Esaabparts: "Engine ID split occurs near Chassis 81127713 (Sedan/Wagon) and 86007263 (Convertible)". Unfortunately, 12786259 which is $356.84 (!) is back-ordered.

eEuroparts has a ProParts equivalent for $115.47. Again, verify the number!
Actually sent an email to Matt at esaabparts, to ask what my Engine ID was, and which part I need.
He looked up my engine ID, and specified the 55... part number. So I think I know which one it is.

A used one could be good for a 240k
engine, hope I can find out how used it is. 😁
Going to try to get one today, I guess.
Maybe I’ll take out the one in the car and make sure an aftermarket version will fit. They don’t look identical.
 

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Discussion Starter #173
2040parts.com has a used 55565996 for 199.00.
They say they test and warranty used parts. So maybe that’s worth the extra?

Better option than the 454 part but need the seals/gasket/oring stuff.

Anybody ever use them?
Just googled Saab part# 55565996, and found it.
 

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Discussion Starter #175
2040parts.com has a used 55565996 for 199.00.
They say they test and warranty used parts. So maybe that’s worth the extra?

Better option than the 454 part but need the seals/gasket/oring stuff.

Anybody ever use them?
Just googled Saab part# 55565996, and found it.
Found this one,


I would look at the one in your car and see if it is the same.
I purchased the part you found. Here are photos of mine after I got it out.

It’s the same.

I have a lot of oil sludge around the oil cooler, that’s for sure. It looks like the unit broke containment to a non pro.

Also, got some residual coolant from pipes, even though I drained the system. If I run water through the oil channel, should I see leaking? Or does it have to under pressure?

Does anyone know why the O ring is $37 on esaabparts? Wow that seems expensive. But I would not want to put the used unit in without good seals.
 

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Doubt you could see any leak. Oil pressure could be 50-70 psi and all it would take is a small split in the internal oil tube to contaminate the coolant. It might not be possible to open up the cooler but it would be interesting to see how it failed. Yes, $37 is excessive - I'd email Matt and ask him if it's a typo..
 

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Discussion Starter #177
Doubt you could see any leak. Oil pressure could be 50-70 psi and all it would take is a small split in the internal oil tube to contaminate the coolant. It might not be possible to open up the cooler but it would be interesting to see how it failed. Yes, $37 is excessive - I'd email Matt and ask him if it's a typo..
Thanks Steve, Yeah I was thinking it wouldn’t leak unless under pressure.

Yeah that price is kind of crazy. I’ll ask if it’s right.
 

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Discussion Starter #178
Sorry to report that the Oil Cooler does not seem to have been the problem either.
Got a used part which had only 98k on the donor car. Plus a couple of nice hoses. Didn’t use them because I’m not very good getting hose clamps off and on😫.
Anyway, got the part in today and drove around for 40 min. Had distilled and a degreaser flush solution in the system.
Same exact problem around 15 miles
On the road.
A sudden spike from 180 to 230, and a overflow noise from the expansion tank. Same result, oil scum in exp tank and a loss of coolant from the pressure/heat spike.

It seems strange that the system behaves normally for a good half hour of idling/driving, and suddenly goes south. Not gradually, but suddenly.
Is that unusual? Seems like an overheat should be a steady rise not a spike?
It did seem like the oil scum contamination in the expansion tank was dissipated this time. Possible that contamination is gradually being cleaned out? Coolant flush had dye from previous fill, looked like what you may expect?
Thanks, sorry to not be able to report mission accomplished.
Can’t see any leaks.
Going to fill and do another flush tomorrow.
 

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This is a strange one. Since it seems to happen suddenly I’d suspect a bad coolant tank cap that’s failing to hold pressure, but think you said you replaced it. However, did you replace the cap after the first time it ever overheated or was the new cap on the tank before it overheated for the first time?

Keep in mind that it will take some time for the contaminated coolant to be purged from the engine, radiator, hoses, heater core. You may have to flush it many times. (Earlier, another poster here said he still sees oily coolant a year after his cooler failed.)

Edit: The oil cooler failure wouldn’t cause the overheating but it is the cause of oil in your coolant so it had to be replaced.

Edit: Think you need a new cap. A 15# cap (for example) raises the boiling point of straight water (which is what you have now) from 212 to 252 degrees. So, if it suddenly fails to hold pressure, water in the system will rapidly expand and boil and you’ll see temps spike while coolant blows out the overflow tube. It’s possible that the contaminated coolant damaged the cap’s seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #180
Thx Steve for hanging in there.
So, you think there is still gunk in the system that needs to be flushed out?
I was thinking the same.
Hoping anyway.
So I’ll do another water and flush treatment tomorrow and see if it happens again.
I’ll try a different cap.
So, the same cap was on for the last two identical incidents.
Can’t understand how cap would cause a spike in temp?
Thanks.
 
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