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Did you use any rust penetrant on the exhaust to loosen bolts? If so, it could just be residue burning off.

Looks like the top of the turbo is wet - is that oil? Recheck the feed line on top of the turbo - did you have to remove it? If so, did you replace/renew the crush washer?

Unless you can hear exhaust escaping I'd say leave the exhaust alone for now. Also, make sure the thermostat housing area is dry: are all clamps tight?
 

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Discussion Starter #142
Did you use any rust penetrant on the exhaust to loosen bolts? If so, it could just be residue burning off.

Looks like the top of the turbo is wet - is that oil? Recheck the feed line on top of the turbo - did you have to remove it? If so, did you replace/renew the crush washer?

Unless you can hear exhaust escaping I'd say leave the exhaust alone for now. Also, make sure the thermostat housing area is dry: are all clamps tight?
Yes, I was using liquid wrench on the manifold nuts, lots of wd40 on various hoses, so I thought it might be residue burning off, but it was smoking for 10 minutes.
Yes banjo bolt on top of turbo was removed per instructions, still puzzled as to why. Just reused existing washers. You think it might be leaking to the top of the cat? I’ll look for that.
I’ll make sure thermostat housing area is dry, thanks. I’ll look at the clamps. Thx.

Didn’t hear any exhaust leaking. OK, I’ll leave it.
 

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OK. Hopefully, the water in the coolant tank is running clear of any oil.

Edit: I see you’re on Cape Cod. I don’t think it’s going to be too cold in the next few days but with only straight water in the cooling system watch ambient temperatures closely.
 

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Discussion Starter #144
OK. Hopefully, the water in the coolant tank is running clear of any oil.

Edit: I see you’re on Cape Cod. I don’t think it’s going to be too cold in the next few days but with only straight water in the cooling system watch ambient temperatures closely.
Good point, I was wondering about that about a week ago, so I threw in some 50/50 but I drained that out and it just has water in there.

Lows tonight 35 and tomorrow 40s so I’ll make sure it’s protected this weekend .
I didn’t see any oil in water yet, but it’s only been run for 10 min because of the smoke. I’ll be checking these things tomorrow. Thx.
 

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Discussion Starter #145
OK. Hopefully, the water in the coolant tank is running clear of any oil.

Edit: I see you’re on Cape Cod. I don’t think it’s going to be too cold in the next few days but with only straight water in the cooling system watch ambient temperatures closely.
Hi Steve, checked over connections, tightened the housing bolts, had a leak on the garage floor, tightened things up a drip stopped.
So I don’t think I have any leaks.
Started car up and Cat did not smoke, so maybe it was residue?
However, showing photos of expansion tank after warming up for 10 min or so. Looked like it would overflow, so I turned off engine.

Repeated the process after an hour or so. Same result. I thought the system level would go down not up?
I am not showing any oil in the water. Very clean looking.

Should I put the cap on the exp tank? And retest?
Thanks again for any ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
OK. Hopefully, the water in the coolant tank is running clear of any oil.

Edit: I see you’re on Cape Cod. I don’t think it’s going to be too cold in the next few days but with only straight water in the cooling system watch ambient temperatures closely.
Hi Steve, checked over connections, tightened the housing bolts, had a leak on the garage floor, tightened things up a drip stopped.
So I don’t think I have any leaks.
Started car up and Cat did not smoke, so maybe it was residue?
However, showing photos of expansion tank after warming up for 10 min or so. Looked like it would overflow, so I turned off engine.

Repeated the process after an hour or so. Same result. I thought the system level would go down not up?
I am not showing any oil in the water. Very clean looking.

Should I put the cap on the exp tank? And retest?
Thanks again for any ideas.
Hi Steve, checked over connections, tightened the housing bolts, had a leak on the garage floor, tightened things up a drip stopped.
So I don’t think I have any leaks.
Started car up and Cat did not smoke, so maybe it was residue?
However, showing photos of expansion tank after warming up for 10 min or so. Looked like it would overflow, so I turned off engine.

Repeated the process after an hour or so. Same result. I thought the system level would go down not up?
I am not showing any oil in the water. Very clean looking.

Should I put the cap on the exp tank? And retest?
Thanks again for any ideas.
wait, did I reverse the exp tank hoses?
I think I did?
 

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Top hose should run along engine, bottom hose should run along battery case. When cold, coolant/water level should be just above midpoint on tank. Yes, run engine with cap on.

Edit: water may still be clear because it hasn't circulated if the thermostat hasn't opened. You need to run it more than 10 minutes at idle for thermostat to open. You'll know it's open when the top radiator hose is warm/hot to the touch. Hopefully, you won't see any oil...
 

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Discussion Starter #148
Ok, Steve, yeah top hoses weren’t reversed.
Let car run with water in it, and tank leaked water out the back with the top cap off.
Turned car off after it got warm enough to open the thermostat, squeezing the hoses frequently
Seemed like heater core was getting water and heat was working, water temp about 180.
So drained the water and filled it with dexcool 50/50 and put cap on.
Seemed to warm up fine, no overflow, and it took about the right volume of coolant.
No sign of oil in coolant.

However, seems like I’ve sprung a leak somewhere. Big spot on garage floor after a quick test run.

Saw a drip. Will have to recheck connections, will get some UV dye and try to find it.
Not surprised that I’ve got a leak somewhere. It’s probably somewhere at the thermostat housing.
Almost, but not quite 😩
 

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Discussion Starter #149
Bought a leak detection kit at the auto store, put dye in, warmed up car, looked for leaks with black light,
Only seemed to leaking from expansion tank overflow tube?

Anyway drove car for a while, parked in garage and came back a couple of hours later to a leak on the garage floor. Checked expansion tank level and looked under the cold line.

Unscrewed expansion tank cap, and the level popped up, I guess that relieved the pressure.

So, when pressurized , the coolant was leaking out, not a good seal somewhere. Inspected with black light and fingers. Fingers near banjo bolt got wet and glowed under the light.

So I reused the crush washers, and hand tightened bolt, as tight as I could.
Very awkward spot.
Anyway, I think I should get new crush washers. Are they special order things or at any hardware store?
Thanks for any thoughts on my experience.
 

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I’d suggest putting the car on ramps and taking a look from below at the thermostat housing and coolant tube that runs to the water pump. I think crush washer for turbo coolant pipe is #92150435 (14.2mm ID x 17.9mm OD x 1.5mm thick).
 

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Discussion Starter #151
Thanks, good idea and nice 👍 of you to spell out that part. I was unsure what part to specify. Esaabparts diagram was a little confusing.
 

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Discussion Starter #152
I’d suggest putting the car on ramps and taking a look from below at the thermostat housing and coolant tube that runs to the water pump. I think crush washer for turbo coolant pipe is #92150435 (14.2mm ID x 17.9mm OD x 1.5mm thick).
Put car on jack stands, looked up from below, and spotted leak at the Banjo bolt with the black light pen.
A glowing droplet plus glowing threads near the washers. Tightened the bolt another quarter turn. Got car to op temp, tuned it off, let it sit overnight, and no glowing spot on the floor.👍
So thanks for that tip.
No oil in coolant that I can see.
Somehow, I don’t think the story is over, but it seems to running Ok.
Too early to celebrate victory, but hoping for no problems.

Reminder, that the original problem was a stuttering, shaking engine that felt as it was misfiring, but no engine codes, but black coffee in the coolant reservoir.
No stuttering shaking so far, no oil in coolant reservoir so far.
Fingers crossed 🤞
Thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #153
Ok, looking for help. Car overheated on a 20 minute test drive. Reached 243 degrees, slightly above dead center on gauge.
Turned off, cooled down to 190. Drove back home. Looks like it was going to overheat again.

During drive, was steady around 180, and, heard a weird boing from below.

Minutes later, heard whistling near expansion tank, glanced at ECT on my diagnostic and had shot to 230.

Will have to look for the boing I guess.
Maybe sprocket bolt dislodged?

Don’t trust my work now, will bring it to a mechanic, thanks for any ideas.
 

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Does it start and run?
Any noises while idling?
I doubt there's an issue with the water pump but if anything's wrong with it you'd certainly hear it. If so, shut it off.
If no noises, then I'd suspect a bad / stuck closed thermostat. Did you replace it with a new one?
When you start it from cold, the big hose on the passenger side that goes into the radiator should be cool and you should be able to squeeze it. After several minutes (and the temp gauge starts to move) the thermostat will open and will allow hot coolant to flow through the big hose. Feel it - is it hot?
 

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I think the leaking is from the overflow tube on the tank. The underhood temp will continue to rise after the car is turned off since there is no air movement, especially with the hood closed. It may rise enough to cause the coolant to bubble out the tank after it sits for a while. I think the root of your problem is overheating and suspect a faulty thermostat. You may also need a new cap for the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Does it start and run?
Any noises while idling?
I doubt there's an issue with the water pump but if anything's wrong with it you'd certainly hear it. If so, shut it off.
If no noises, then I'd suspect a bad / stuck closed thermostat. Did you replace it with a new one?
When you start it from cold, the big hose on the passenger side that goes into the radiator should be cool and you should be able to squeeze it. After several minutes (and the temp gauge starts to move) the thermostat will open and will allow hot coolant to flow through the big hose. Feel it - is it hot?
Starts no problem, no noises while idling, can’t hear anything abnormal.

I did replace thermostat with a new one.
Car is cold right now, big hose is cool and squeezable.
Expansion tank level is low after overflow valve released the hot fluid, and “coolant level low” dash warning light illuminates ...
Turning on car right now, and will check hose after warmup and filling expansion tank to cold level.

Thanks.
Will put it up on jack stands tomorrow and review my work for loose bolts or anything.
 

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Good about no noises. I think your water pump R&R is OK and it's a simple thermostat problem. The "coiled spring" part of the thermostat goes towards the engine.

Edit: There also may have been an air pocket in the coolant that took time to work itself out.
 

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Discussion Starter #158
Ok, idling car right now, ECT IS 147 and hose feels warm, ECT up to 165 after 10 min, not hearing any noises, plenty of heat from heater, temp rising slowly while idling,radiator fan blades seem to be spinning, can’t tell, ECT at 190. Gauge at dead center at 190. ECT at 200 gauge dead center ...ECT back to 192, no unusual noises or things going on... just idling...ECT back to 185? ... plenty of heat... staying around 180 ish ? Gauge dead center ... been running for 15 min.
Raised RPM To 2500 for 30 sec...no change in temp? .. 187.
Steady idle, sready temp, no noises...

Any thoughts on this?
Thanks for your help Steve, I tested thermostat in boiling water, worked fine... before I put it in, and I have a new tank cap.

Will this only happen while under driving conditions instead of just idling?
Car off,
 

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Sounds normal. You will see slight changes in temp as cooling fans cycle on and off as ECU directs them (looks at temp and whether or not AC is on).

I'm not sure if thermostat can go in the other way but do you recall how you put it in? Is it a brand new thermostat?

Can you feel coolant in the big hose? If you squeeze/release repeatedly, can you see coolant level in tank rise and fall?
 

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Discussion Starter #160
Well, I recall that putting in the thermostat was only possible in the spring down position. It has to go in the right way, I think. Yeah. It was brand new, came with a gasket that fits the circular ring shaped top part, which snugged up to the groove in the thermostat housing. Then you put the cover on top with three bolts? The cover is like a junction for several cooling lines. It certainly could be an area that things could go wrong,

Can I feel coolant in the big hose? Yes, and I squeezed it frequently during coolant “burping”.
It would cause movement in the exp tank. Just gave it a squeeze and seemed pretty full and warm, and did not move tank level at all. Maybe a little, it was tough to tell.
 
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