Hi Steve, just ran a simulation of the video. Sorry to report that my results were very similar.Cap wouldn’t cause temp to increase but a loss in pressure from failed cap seal could cause overheating/boil-over. A head gasket leak that allowed combustion into a water passage could cause temp spike.
See this video: is this what your car is
Yeah, checked the ATF recently. Went down through the fill hole with the oil dipstick, and looked for signs of contamination, fluid looked reddish, no sign of coolant dye.Logically there is only a few places the oil can get into the coolant.
The ATF cooler is a possibility but any time I have seen this its shown as coolant in the gearbox...not the other way around.You would have also destroyed your gearbox by now if that was the culprit.
If you had a problem with the engine block re headgasket etc then the symptoms would be different
Also what has been happening to your oil level?
When it happened to our 9-3 it was the oil cooler that failed and it took half a dozen engine hot flushes to calm down to an acceptable level.
Even now two years on there is still some black scum build up on the header tank walls as the oil will have coated the insides of all the pipework.....its difficult to shift.
So if it isnt the oil cooler at fault goodness knows whereas else it can come from.
Not to mention the wife 😩 it’s her car, well it’s the main family car, but we have a second car so that takes some pressure off.No worries - I wanted to retrace the steps to be sure I’m not missing anything. The compression and coolant tests don’t point to the head gasket but the sudden temp spike and coolant purge do - unfortunately. It’s bugging me that we can’t narrow this down - I can only imagine how frustrating it is for you.
Thanks for your input. Steel seal, blue devil, Barr’s, k seal. Blue devils got some YouTube documentation, seemed positive, not as expensive as Steel seal, but both are minor amounts versus replacement.I don't have any experience with head gasket sealers but have read plenty of reviews - both positive and negative. (Negative mostly due to clogs elsewhere in cooling system, like heater core.) Steel Seal is one I've seen a lot but it's pricey. If you decide to use one, you really need to flush clean the system beforehand.
Yeah, I’m going by white smoke for coolant in cylinder, don’t see white smoke.Also, looking for signs of milk shake in oil, don’t see any.It's a big job but you could DIY a gasket change although you'd have to be certain you know how to time the camshafts...You might get lucky with a sealer.
It's odd that no coolant has gotten into the oil or a cylinder. That's still true - correct? So you may have a combination of things going on here:
1) failure of the oil cooler. Replaced it so what you're seeing now may just be residual oil from before the cooler change. Nevertheless, it will take several thorough flushes to clean out the small passages in the radiator, heater core as well as the engine and all hoses.
2) head gasket breach which may or may not be pushing oil into a coolant jacket. But, you should also see coolant in the oil since after you turn off a warm/hot engine (so no oil pressure) coolant, which is still under some pressure, should find its way into an oil galley or a cylinder depending on where the breach is located. However, since your compression test didn't show a big difference in cylinders (true? you may want to test again) - the breach in the gasket may be very small since only high compression is making its way to the coolant.
Unless someone else here can explain it, I'd say you have nothing to lose with a sealer.