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Equating quality solely to price is not solid reasoning, IMO.

All full synthetic oils from major refineries are good. If you change your oil as often as you say it doesn't matter which you use. As long as you use a weight listed in your manual.

Base stock and additives may matter some if you go 15,000 miles between changes. But if you want to just go for the most expensive oil, have at it.

Mobil 1 0W-40 for me. $23 at Walmart for 5 quarts and a $12 rebate from Mobil twice a year. Rebate on now until end of May I believe
 

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I have to say that Mobil1 used to work very well years ago, but my recent experience is not that good. It might be me getting too picky but I have the feeling the same oil is degrading quicker on my B205 and B235 engines. I have been looking recently at specs for oils in detail and Shell 5-40 seems to cope better with higher temperatures (at least on paper). And this is something important with these engines. I have had good experiences with Shell synthetic oil on the misses car (Volvo S40) so will be giving it a go at the next change.
So you sent your oil out for analysis to confirm your suspicions that Mobil degrades faster than it used to?
 

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I have a feeling that since DEXOS rating came out, the oil quality standards of acceptance are lower than they were for the GM-LL-025 rating. There really weren't many oils that met the GM-LL-025 spec, but DEXOS? I think my cooking oil meets that spec...
 

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Equating quality solely to price is not solid reasoning, IMO.
It's motor oil
It's all I have to go by
Other than the writing on the container
Although I do read some "spec" pdf's sometimes

I'm not the kind of guy who buys cheap food hoping it's as good for me as more expensive food.
My health is more important to me than saving money or not getting ripped off, if you prefer.
To each his own I suppose.

All full synthetic oils from major refineries are good.
Mobil 1 does not claim any of their motor oils in the US market are "synthetic" as far as I know.
I mean it says "fully synthetic", but when you read their website they don't claim any of their oils are "synthetic"
That's America, cut corners and scam everywhere
Like my Swiss friend says, big business, big ****
I think they say they meet "synthetic specs" on their website, so then by that logic they put "fully synthetic" on the bottle, but not "100% synthetic" supposedly, I read somewhere

Like cereal says "no high fructose corn syrup" on the front of the box in big writing and the ingredients on the side says "corn syrup" which might be and probably is, if I had to guess, high in fructose
I mean what is "high" anyway?
What is food?
What is medicine?
What is the speed limit?
What is synthetic?
What is a GM-LL-025 spec?
 

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It's motor oil

Mobil 1 does not claim any of their motor oils in the US market are "synthetic" as far as I know.
I mean it says "fully synthetic", but when you read their website they don't claim any of their oils are "synthetic"
I am not sure how "fully synthetic" does not imply that the oil is anything but "synthetic". I think it has been clearly established that oils listed as "synthetic" are in fact "synthetic" in some fashion. To me, the oils I would avoid are synthetic blends, as there are NO regulations about what the ratio of synthetic to non-synthetic oil is in the blend. Now there is a distinction between types of synthetic oils, that much is true.
http://www.industrialoutpost.com/understanding-synthetic-oils/
 

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It's a good thing there's oil analysis of M1 0W40 all the way out to 15k interval on this car, but whatever.....
 

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They both have some kind of GM specs
Neither is GM-LL-025 or whatever
One oil is MOBIL 1, 5W-30 annual protection ($40, 5-quarts)
The other is MOBIL 1, 0W-40 ($22, 5 quarts)

Can't seem to get past the $4.40 a quart for the 0W-40
That makes me think it's cheap garbage
Maybe it's not true
 

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They both have some kind of GM specs
Neither is GM-LL-025 or whatever
One oil is MOBIL 1, 5W-30 annual protection ($40, 5-quarts)
The other is MOBIL 1, 0W-40 ($22, 5 quarts)

Can't seem to get past the $4.40 a quart for the 0W-40
That makes me think it's cheap garbage
Maybe it's not true
Or a good buy and the more expensive one is to feed those who think more expensive is better. If you change oil every 5000-7500 miles Mobil 1 0W-40 is my choice.
 

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They both have some kind of GM specs
Neither is GM-LL-025 or whatever
If you find any oil on the shelves with the GM-LL-025 spec on the label, it will be old, inasmuch as that spec (in addition to GM6094M and GM4718M) was superseded by dexos1™ and dexos2™ several years ago, in 2010. The dexos standards were just revised in 2015 for roll out in 2017.
 

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They both have some kind of GM specs
Neither is GM-LL-025 or whatever
One oil is MOBIL 1, 5W-30 annual protection ($40, 5-quarts)
The other is MOBIL 1, 0W-40 ($22, 5 quarts)

Can't seem to get past the $4.40 a quart for the 0W-40
That makes me think it's cheap garbage
Maybe it's not true
I run it on all 3 of our 2.0T cars. Great oil.
 

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Time to buy oil again:

Which oil is "better"?:
Mobil 1 Annual Protection 5W30, 5 qt -- $40
Mobil 1 0W-40 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 qt. --$25

I have a 2007 Saab 9-3 2.0T -- I believe the owner's manual calls for 5W-30.

Is either one group IV or V ; "fully" POA or ester based?
To me it's seems like the one that cost 60% more should be the better oil or should be more "synthetic", also it suppose to last longer.

regardless of cost which one is "better"? Going to be winter in NH sooner.

More of my "thinking":
What seems to happen in American markets or markets in general is some one created hype about something (i.e. a brand, a model, a spec, a certification, but can be literally anything) then corporations make that product cheaper and cheaper and it has little do with the safety/performance of the original products.
 

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I would assume the 0W-40 has ACEA A3/B3/B4 and various VW, BMW, Mercedes, and Porsche certifications. Does the 5W-30? I doubt it.

Of course if the 0W-40 doesn't have all those certs, then it's not the 0W-40 that's usually recommended here.
 

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Probably a toss up. How long are you going to run it? Generally, I think the 0W-40 oils are better in these engines.
 

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I'm using Castrol 03084 EDGE 5W-30.

dexos1

http://a.co/arxvL2W

The Mobil 1 5W-30 High Mileage was not in stock.
Woh, those are some crazy fresh *** dope *** [email protected] on dat bottle. I know where the money goes when you buy that oil. But where does it go with the difference in the Mobil 1 oils? Nobody on a forum knows? It's like that old chinezer saying; those who know don't speak and those who speak don't know; really makes you think.

I run it on all 3 of our 2.0T cars. Great oil.
What is "it"?
I'm going to do what you do because you're avatar is the stoned ancient alien guy.

Or a good buy and the more expensive one is to feed those who think more expensive is better. If you change oil every 5000-7500 miles Mobil 1 0W-40 is my choice.
I change my oil every 3k; well now-a-days it's more like 3-4k, but I'm currently at 3.5k between changes AND I CAN FEEL THE PANIC SETTING IN <-----------SEE ; THE CAPS THAT MEANS PANIC ; like this guy -------> :eek:
 

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Time to buy oil again:

Which oil is "better"?:
Mobil 1 Annual Protection 5W30, 5 qt -- $40
Mobil 1 0W-40 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 qt. --$25

I have a 2007 Saab 9-3 2.0T -- I believe the owner's manual calls for 5W-30.

Is either one group IV or V ; "fully" POA or ester based?
To me it's seems like the one that cost 60% more should be the better oil or should be more "synthetic", also it suppose to last longer.

regardless of cost which one is "better"? Going to be winter in NH sooner.
So.... what did you end up using?

FWIW, my opinions to your questions:

The 0W-40 is always going to be better for these engines. The thing to look for is the ACEA rating. A3/B3/B4 is a better spec for a turbo engine (better HT/HS and additive package) than A1/B1/A5/B5.

Both should be Grp4 PAO oils, but I believe Mobil has stopped using esters to solubilize the additives and is now using a small amount of Grp3 for that. The exception might still be their Delvac 1 (5W-40) full syn oils.

Also, have you considered having your oil analyzed thru Used Oil Analysis? That would give you better data on how your oil's holding up than just "gut feeling." From everything I've read, GM's Oil Life Monitor does a really good job of calculating oil life for the recommended oil. If you're using a better oil (ACEA A3/B3/B4), then the OLM should be overly conservative in its Oil Change Interval estimate.
 

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So.... what did you end up using?
0W-40 - seemed to run rougher at 3k after oil change, not sure of course.
BUT I changed valve cover gasket right after oil change and valve cover had weird orange residue after going through dish washer. And I couldn't clean all the sludge out of the valve cover gasket. But I did try to clean it well. Ran out of oil at one point, light came on, that surprised me. I thought I check it often, but maybe I slacked after I changed the gasket. Power steering seal leaks I think, also. But I like it due to all the salt on the roads in the winter. Keeps that side of the sub-frame nice and oily :cheesy:;ol;

5W-30 -- seems to last longer. Engine runs quieter for another 1k+. So it lasts 3.5k+ instead of 2.5k. But of course could all be my imagination and I had the valve cover sludge clean out which left loose sludge in the cover and the orange residue.

FWIW, my opinions to your questions:

The 0W-40 is always going to be better for these engines. The thing to look for is the ACEA rating. A3/B3/B4 is a better spec for a turbo engine (better HT/HS and additive package) than A1/B1/A5/B5.
"FWIW - Wiktionary
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/FWIW
(Internet, text messaging) For whoever is wondering."

I believe it's "whomever" not whoever, lol, but nice to know or NTK, if you will :lol:
Okay, maybe I'll give it a try again, I guess.


Both should be Grp4 PAO oils, but I believe Mobil has stopped using esters to solubilize the additives and is now using a small amount of Grp3 for that. The exception might still be their Delvac 1 (5W-40) full syn oils.
I doubt either are "group IV", but what do I know?; other then Mobil is not officially stating 0W-40 is group IV, so why would it be. I have been surprised in the past by how fast "Mobil 1 synthetic grease" and even silicon grease has eaten plastic. I specifically remember the "Mobil 1 synthetic grease" eating plastic.

If you want good oil run Amsoil or Redline. I believe Redline is group V (redline spokes person, if I remember correctly). Ams oil I have no clue.

https://blog.amsoil.com/are-all-synthetic-oil-groups-the-same-group-iii-vs-iv-vs-v/

Also, have you considered having your oil analyzed thru Used Oil Analysis? That would give you better data on how your oil's holding up than just "gut feeling." From everything I've read, GM's Oil Life Monitor does a really good job of calculating oil life for the recommended oil. If you're using a better oil (ACEA A3/B3/B4), then the OLM should be overly conservative in its Oil Change Interval estimate.
No, but I have been thinking of having tests done on my blood and hair; this would give me better data on how I'm holding up and how my gut is feeling :lol:
 

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I have been surprised in the past by how fast "Mobil 1 synthetic grease" and even silicon grease has eaten plastic.
I don't know why you would be surprised by that. Silicon, a hard brittle tetravalent metalloid existing in crystalline solid form, is a 7 on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness (diamond is a 10). Suspending very small particles of silicon in a base oil with thickener (the basic constitutents of all greases) would result in the creation of a colloidal sandpaper that should be highly effective at "eating plastic."

On a related note, silicon breast implants result in unrivaled firmness and should resist sagging for decades.

Now, if we substitute the term "silicone" for "silicon" we will find that we have a polymerized siloxane, aka a polysiloxane, which is a polymer uniquely well suited to lubrication, and in gel form contained within an elastic membrane inserted beneath the skin, an excellent mimic for adipose tissue.

In conclusion:
Silicon grease = outstanding abrasive, terrible grease;
Silicon breast implants = Unparalleled firmness, likely exceptionally uncomfortable;
Silicone grease = waterproof, dielectric, wide temperature range lubricant suitable for thousands of uses;
Silicone breast implants = very natural appearing and behaving prostheses particularly well suited for their purpose.

Mr. Know-It-All will be here all week. Please address your inquiries to [email protected] and I will try to answer them in a timely fashion.
 

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Is this the part where I post a picture of silicone breast implants cover in silicone grease? :lol:

See this is why I never get anything done :lol:
 

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CRC Heavy Duty Silicone Lubricant
Says: "NOT FOR USE ON PLASTICS"

I sprayed it in my ignition switch and all my locks and a bunch of places I can't remember :cheesy:

In my Kia Sedona.

Not too many lubricants are suitable for plastics. And it seems like the ones that are are expensive.

Only white lithium grease I guess is okay for plastics because it's for bearings. Does not say: "DO NOT USE ON PLASTICS", I think. I mean the cheap one you get at the auto parts store, Permatex or whatever. I actually go through a lot of hassle trying to find synthetic bases lubricants, not derived form petroleum. Or ones safe for (all?) plastics.

Only one I found locally is synlube or whatever it's called. Comes in grey tube at harbor freight.

I wouldn't be surprised if all the brittle timing guides in the motor are do to the motor oil used. But I guess it happens over time anyway.
 
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