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I do a lot of stop and start driving short distances and the oil is usually quite dark when it get changed. I look at it this way I pay CA$90 for an oil and filter change probably twice a year that may save me a ton of money in a few years time. My car is nearly six years old (I got it in Aug08) and I intend on running it into the ground and replacing it with a second hand 9-5 (the model due out this summer) when it does head off to that scrapyard in the sky.

zippy:cheesy:
Now wait, you stated you change every "5000Km", (that's roughly 3,106) because you do "around town short distances". You stated also, you change your Oil twice a year... you drive Less than 6500 miles per year and change your Oil twice?

It might pay for you to have an Oil analysis for 25 bucks......I think you'll see your throwing money away. I change every 7.5K and there are some that believe that's too soon. My car is an 03 105K+, does not burn or leak a drop.
 

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Saab recommends Mobil 1 OW40. Thats the best oil out there in my opinion. I change it every 8-9K miles.
 

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The GM-LL specs are correct for the 9-3 and should be followed. That said, especially given the change to lower OCIs in subsequent years, that spec may or may not be important. What IS important, and apears to be a prerequisite for the LL oil is to meet ACEA A3. While A5 is the long drain spec, my manual explicitly states that if the right LL spec oil cannot be found in a pinch, that the correct plan of action is to use an A3 oil with the right viscosity.

I buy that... That said, I have run Amsoil SSO, which is not A3, and got very nice UOA results.

However Id recommend ACEA A3 at bare minimum. The LL spec oils are very good, Id run them and not bother thinking about anything else.
+1 All of the above..... Realistically you can run Dino if you just change at the recommended interval for the Oil you choose. It's not the Engine tht's rated, it's the Oil.
 

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I myself change every 7.5K, I reset my OLM every other Oil Change. After 7.5K it usually reads between 44 and 55% Oil Life left. I do mostly Highway and Suburban driving.

@Cos look in the 93SS Manual 06 on, Saab now recommends 10K intervals or one year, and the SID/OLM Algorithm has been adjusted to that Interval, ...We've had this discussion in June, I'd posted links about it ....from a June thread....

"I've posted Links about it in the past, http://lnengineering.blogspot.com/ it's old news, you can also find information on BITOG. Or write Mobil."


and

Mobil 1 0W-40 Current PDS - Bob Is The Oil Guy


Mobil 1 0W-40 Current PDS - Bob Is The Oil Guy

More on discrepencies with Mobil 1 0w40, reformulations, and its poor performance in high performance engines.
I do recall us discussing it this summer.

That doesn't change the fact that it still has the GM Long Life spec.
And you have seen all my UOA's on both my 03' and 06' correct? They don't get much better. And I don't think anyone on here has done as many UOA's as me or had as long an OCI. I think I'm the only person here that has data to back up what I say.

Ironically I'm now running Royal Purple 0W 40. It should be interesting to see how that oil performs and I'll bet not as good as M1 0W 40 although I hope it does.
 

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I do recall us discussing it this summer.

That doesn't change the fact that it still has the GM Long Life spec.
And you have seen all my UOA's on both my 03' and 06' correct? They don't get much better. And I don't think anyone on here has done as many UOA's as me or had as long an OCI. I think I'm the only person here that has data to back up what I say.

Ironically I'm now running Royal Purple 0W 40. It should be interesting to see how that oil performs and I'll bet not as good as M1 0W 40 although I hope it does.
Yes it does have the LL spec, up until 06 the Manual recommended changes every 15K, if you read on it mentioned up to 18K longevity (p.238). But the rating has changed, that's why SAAB lowered the Interval from 15 to 10K and reprogrammed the SID/OLM (There's a ststement right there). Notice no Mobile Literature lists Mileage, it's left up to the Manufacturer's recommendation.

I'm sure Royal Purple will be at least equal too if not better than M1. We'll see.

But I still think people changing at 3K should just switch to Dino, that's how often my Grandfather used to change Oil. Even cars that still come through with Mineral 5W30 have a 5K Interval.
 

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+1 All of the above..... Realistically you can run Dino if you just change at the recommended interval for the Oil you choose. It's not the Engine tht's rated, it's the Oil.

I wouldnt go that far necessarily. Given the ACEA A3 requirements for HT/HS and stability, syn base fluids really are required. An A3 oil can be made from dino, but they usually are 20w-50 or similar fluids...
 

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So I am starting to do the maintenance on my car my self. Today the Car went to 37k and my intermediate service light came up. I asked the dealer how much for a Intermediate service and they wanted $340.

Not too sure if thats worth it since they really don't do to much I think imho.

So I was thinking Motul Oil but wasn't too sure about the weight and a K&N Oil Filter.

Any suggestions?
 

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I talked to my mechanic and he said he's going to put 5w40 in mine, he also said if I agree to do 3 with him over time he can give me all 3 for 100 because he'll get a lot better deal on the oil, I was extremely happy with that so the next time I'm home I'm going to bring it to him for the first of 3 changes.
 

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Hi All, new to Saab Central... I ahve a 93 late2007 tid wagon....

I have owned my car for 5 months, have traveled about 5,oookm ....Im after the recommended synthetic oil for my due oil change ?



Good answer. However your manual should state 0W-30 or 0W-40. The last year or two 5W-30 and 5W-40 have been added.

Mobile 1 0W-40 is your best bet all around--reasonably priced, easy to get, and probably the best oil out of all of them.
 

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I have owned my car for 5 months, have traveled about 5,oookm ....Im after the recommended synthetic oil for my due oil change ?
The car spec will say anything meeting GM-LL-A025.

I believe the consensous around here is Mobil1 0w-40 as it "met" that requirement.

GM has since dropped all that GM-LL stuff and have been saying Dexos.

Dexos1 spec for petrol engines and Dexos2 spec for diesel engines.

That said, you can surely still go with Mobil1 0w-40.

If someone who has gone to a Dexos1/2 spec'd oil could chime in on what they use, that'd be nice.
 

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Thank you Idle....
My oil was replaced about 4000km ago (3 months).. I personally watched the refill process!....I know its early to be changing fully synthetic oil but it looks v dirty at this km…, is this normal for these diesel engines?...
 

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Thank you Idle....
My oil was replaced about 4000km ago (3 months).. I personally watched the refill process!....I know its early to be changing fully synthetic oil but it looks v dirty at this km…, is this normal for these diesel engines?...



Yes it does have the LL spec, up until 06 the Manual recommended changes every 15K, if you read on it mentioned up to 18K longevity (p.238). But the rating has changed, that's why SAAB lowered the Interval from 15 to 10K and reprogrammed the SID/OLM (There's a ststement right there). Notice no Mobile Literature lists Mileage, it's left up to the Manufacturer's recommendation.

I'm sure Royal Purple will be at least equal too if not better than M1. We'll see.

But I still think people changing at 3K should just switch to Dino, that's how often my Grandfather used to change Oil. Even cars that still come through with Mineral 5W30 have a 5K Interval.
The car spec will say anything meeting GM-LL-A025.

I believe the consensous around here is Mobil1 0w-40 as it "met" that requirement.

GM has since dropped all that GM-LL stuff and have been saying Dexos.

Dexos1 spec for petrol engines and Dexos2 spec for diesel engines.

That said, you can surely still go with Mobil1 0w-40.

If someone who has gone to a Dexos1/2 spec'd oil could chime in on what they use, that'd be nice.
 

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Hi All, new to saab central... can i add another question to the group...i have a 2007 93 wagon tid, 74,000km. I replaced oil at 71,000.. oil seems v dirty for only covering 3000 in 3 months... i know the oil was changed at 70,000 because is personaly watched it go in! is this normal for these diesel engines ?.. & when checking the oil i find it v difficult to understand what the dipstick is saying/reading, is there a trick, method for reading the dipstick as the oil seems to be covering the dipstick all over..
 

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My oil was replaced about 4000km ago (3 months).. I personally watched the refill process!....I know its early to be changing fully synthetic oil but it looks v dirty at this km…, is this normal for these diesel engines?...

As soon as you replace the oil in a TDi, it will go black - this means it is doing its job ;ol;
 

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Hey everyone, I change my oil every 3k miles with Dexos1 full synthetic 5w-30. I haven't had any issues with it since I started using it. Although at 3k miles the oil is pretty dark. I dig the Dexos1 though, it's a pretty good quality oil. I mean they do require it in all of the brand new cadillacs after all
 

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I don't know why, I change every 3k miles and usually use Mobil 1 0W-40:
https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1
But I don't always write the mileage down and have a terrible memory, so maybe it's more like 500 miles sometimes.

This time I bought 5W-30 annual protection just cause it cost more, I guess:
https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-annual-protection

I was thinking of buying the 0W-40 long and hard, but decided to go 5W-30

Sometimes I think changing the motor oil more often cleans the engine. Of course I'm not sure that it does.
It's also pretty "dirty" at 3K miles, whatever that means

I did a 5k miles oil change in my Camry (longest interval I can recall ever on any car I've had) recently and it was pretty dark, like Saab 3k dark. That was with Mobil 1 -- 0W-20 annual protection.
Sometimes you do so little on a Camry you forget to maintain it. It's like the opposite of a Saab.

Also figuring out what parts (oils, motor oil, whatever maintenance parts) you need for a Camry is as easy as ****.

My Saab want me to change the side lights on it and I'm like WTF, how do I do that?! Used to piss me off bad on my old Saab and now it's just kind of funny, but still pissed me off a little :lol:

Took it to car wash for like 2 months this year; lights stopped working. Tail light lens fell off. Key's goofy, trunk randomly opens.

I would change the ATF fluid again, but I have no good/easy way to check the fluid level.

Thinking of getting 06-09 -- 9-5 wagon, but you need the patience of a saint with these vehicles. Just figuring out which oil to buy is nutty.

Make sure you buy one that was mostly driven by some one who drives slow and maintained it ;ol;

Don't buy one from a kid who put extra small tires on the front wheels and tells you to floor it during the test drive.
Don't buy one at the airport when the car is already warm and the guy clearly doesn't want you to know where he lives.
 

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Not hearing the best things about mobil 1 0-40...switching Porsche and Saab to castrol syntec 5-40 or mobil 1 5-40.
I have to say that Mobil1 used to work very well years ago, but my recent experience is not that good. It might be me getting too picky but I have the feeling the same oil is degrading quicker on my B205 and B235 engines. I have been looking recently at specs for oils in detail and Shell 5-40 seems to cope better with higher temperatures (at least on paper). And this is something important with these engines. I have had good experiences with Shell synthetic oil on the misses car (Volvo S40) so will be giving it a go at the next change.
 

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I have to say that Mobil1 used to work very well years ago, but my recent experience is not that good. It might be me getting too picky but I have the feeling the same oil is degrading quicker on my B205 and B235 engines. I have been looking recently at specs for oils in detail and Shell 5-40 seems to cope better with higher temperatures (at least on paper). And this is something important with these engines. I have had good experiences with Shell synthetic oil on the misses car (Volvo S40) so will be giving it a go at the next change.
I went to Walmart years go 2010 or so.
0W-40 was 4 quarts and about $5-10 more than all the other Mobil 1, 5-quart jugs.
A few years ago 0W-40 started coming in 5 quart jugs and cost as much as the other Mobil 1 oils.
So I started buying rotel 5W-40 turbo diesel oil

I just got the 5W-30 Mobil 1 annual protection because it cost the most.
But I though about getting 0W-40.
It was about $40 for 5-quarts and 0W-40 was about $25.
Group 4-5 synthetic motor oil should cost about $8-15 a quart, I would think. The older I get the more I realize everything is just marketing trickery and playing semantics with labels/brands and ideas about products people have in their heads

It's just label/brand/product ruining cycles.
There's an infinite number of ways you can trick a consumer.
We live in the land of scammers/tricksters unfortunately
 

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I went to Walmart years go 2010 or so.
0W-40 was 4 quarts and about $5-10 more than all the other Mobil 1, 5-quart jugs.
A few years ago 0W-40 started coming in 5 quart jugs and cost as much as the other Mobil 1 oils.
So I started buying rotel 5W-40 turbo diesel oil

I just got the 5W-30 Mobil 1 annual protection because it cost the most.
But I though about getting 0W-40.
It was about $40 for 5-quarts and 0W-40 was about $25.
Group 4-5 synthetic motor oil should cost about $8-15 a quart, I would think. The older I get the more I realize everything is just marketing trickery and playing semantics with labels/brands and ideas about products people have in their heads

It's just label/brand/product ruining cycles.
There's an infinite number of ways you can trick a consumer.
We live in the land of scammers/tricksters unfortunately
Yes, couldn't agree more. But you have to know when you are also paying a cheap price because you are getting a worse product. In the UK Castrol tends to be very expensive, so is Mobil1, although the later can be found cheaper sometimes. Shell oil is not so popular (therefore expensive) but my experience is telling me it is as good if not better.
I can buy a 25litre can of Chevron for the price of 5litre Shell or 2litre of Castrol/Mobil1. However having reviewed the specs in detail I wouldn't trust the Chevron for our turbo engines. It should be ok though for most naturally aspirated ones.
 
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