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Discussion Starter #1
hi all,

back with another broken part... ugh.

my g/f was driving the 99 9-3 and the oil pressure light went on. she pulled over and shut down the car and found that oil had *sprayed* all over the front right (passenger) side of the car. it was dark and late, so i just had it towed home. thanks AAA+!!

the engine did not seize (thank god). she shut it down quick enough and it's been draining oil for the last 2 days (lots of oil). i'm not even going to crank it until this is fixed and re-filled with oil.

i got to examining it and could see that the oil cooler hose fitting had somehow come 'undone'. the rubber O-ring is still in place, although broken. i wanted to see if someone had a $20 solution (like a custom fitting/pipe) so i can replace this connection without having to replace the whole oil cooler hose piece. everything else (hoses, oil cooler, etc.) looks fine except this connection.

here are some pics of what i'm talking about:

if you follow oil cooler tube #1 to the left, that is the connection that is broken. and below is an 'eyewitness photo'... ;)



ok, here's the connection. how do these pipes fit in here? you can see the yellow gasket/o-ring is still there, but broken. is there any way i can put this back together on the cheap?

also, i noticed that a bracket that (i think) holds these two hoses 'together' broke.

i know you guys can help me solve this!!! please tell me all i need is a piece of plastic shaped like a cheerio (and not like a credit card)! :cheesy: thanks...

 

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Great pics:cheesy:
For a ten year old, with over 150K miles** on the clock, I'd feel much more comfortable with new parts, professionally installed....if you want this vehicle to be reliable for another 5 to 10 years.....
**a guess, of course,probably close..

Important...How are the two oil lines secured to the cooler ??

Neither the Cheerio O nor the credit card look to be appropriate..:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
oh, you like it? come take it! pleeeeze! :cheesy: it has about 170K on it, except for the engine which has about 65K miles (replaced).

this car has been nothing short of a nightmare. engine was replaced about 2 years ago, power steering pump/hoses went bad (see my posts in this forum), turbo replaced, lots of other stuff.

as soon as i stuff that tube back in there, i'm getting rid of it, sorry to say. i'm at my wit's end with this car. seriously. if anyone wants details, pics of the entire car, a list of what's new/what's OEM, etc.

just ask and you can make me an offer! (not kidding) i will even buff the crap out of it for you! ;)

it looks like that rubber 'o-ring' may actually be more of a 'nipple' that is a friction-fit into the 'goes-inta' hole in the intercooler. to be honest, i'm afraid to pull the other 'goes-outa' line from the intercooler since it's ok. but what have i really got to lose? i would have to buy *two* fittings? LOL

just ran down to local Saab shop, but they were closed. they probably would have had the part, too. :roll: will go back tomorrow...

as far as professional installation, it will be professionally installed. by me!

seriously, i can turn a wrench just as well as anybody else, and worst-case is a new set of oil cooler lines for $125 (or less) and not much wrenching (although more than i care to do at the moment). but if the solution is a $2 rubber nipple, that's my solution! :cool:

thanks.

*edit* forgot to answer the 'how do those hoses fit in there?' question. LOL - that's what I'm asking! as i mentioned above, i found a bracket (or half a bracket, anyway) lying by the car. it looks like this bracket holds the hoses together (and maybe 'in place') so they don't move too much. it could have been that the bracket failed, the car went over a bump which then dislodged the 'goes-inta' hose - and *Ka-blamo!* - instant oil sprayer!
 

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By professionalism, I mean the entire ball of wax.
I was a wrench turner at one time...probably thought I "knew it all".....there is an awfully lot to it... more than many can handle...

Your cooler is from a '99 which is slightly different from a '94 to '98 model..
I think, that with some minor? modifications, they are interchangible...A year or two ago, another poster had a similar problem....I do not remember the outcome..
I did a search...

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45432&highlight=cooler+fittings
interesting reading, if nothing else.
I cannot tell how the oil cooler fittings appear, the views are blocked, not so good..
I think there should be a threaded nipple soldered or brazed into the cooler....
If this is missing, maybe a good shop can fix this ...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i knew what you meant. ;)

ok, i've got it figured out now. this is an easy problem to fix.

the bracket that i mentioned in my first post turns out to be THE issue. this is because (as i astutely and previously surmised, LOL) that this bracket actually holds (or presses) the pipes into the intercooler. and in fact, IT DOES.



there is a flute at the end of the oil cooler (pressure) lines similar to 'pressure-fittings' but without the actual screw-on, threaded fitting - just plain 'pressure line' after the flute (and before the flute as well). this gasket pushes (when correctly screwed on!) on the flute(s) and holds them into the intercooler.

the yellow gasket/o-ring is just that. just makes for a better seal. the one pictured above is a bit shredded and will not be re-used.

i pulled the 'goes-outa' line (comes out easily with a little wiggle) and found this gasket/o-ring relatively intact.



so basically all i need to do is get a new o-ring (going to run to Home Depot to see if they have one - looks pretty standard), insert the in & out lines back into the intercooler, and find the appropriate size screw (and washer this time!) to screw it back in, which will force the in/out lines back into place snugly. then fill the oil again. and pray!

...elementary, my dear Watson! :cheesy:

it seems that this bracket could have been designed better. i am guessing that the screw became loose (it's nowhere to be found), the car hit a bump and the flutes jumped the now-loose bracket. i am also guessing that the bracket (sans screw) was rusted onto the 'goes-outa' line and that's why it survived the tow home.

then i start thinking that i could have fixed this on the spot with a SCREW!!! GRRRrrr!!! LOL :lol:

it seems that the addition of a thin, but large washer in-between the bracket and intercooler face would keep the flutes from jumping the bracket, even if the screw became very loose. maybe i'll try it. but if the screw fell out for any reason, all bets are off. ;)

a possibly better solution would be to buy 2 of these brackets, put one on the bottom and put one on the top (flipped 180* so it looks like an 'M' instead of a 'W'). then there would be NO WAY that the flutes could make it through a thoroughly circular 'collar' or 'double-handed-strangle-hold' bracket. just imagine your hands around someone's throat. ahhh. that feels better... :evil: :cheesy:

i'll post in-progress and 'completed' pics when done. (hopefully in a couple hours!) and with that - i'm off to the store!
 

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I was thinking that a hold down plate was used, but had no knowledge nor proof of this.
Also I was thinking that a support bracket is used...or that one should be used. Plastic cable ties are far better than nothing...

Washers ?
old design, note how few are used in todays vehcles....

Today, its Lock Tite....and better screw designs...
In other words, that all important screw should never have backed out ..;oops:
Several years ago, someone may have removed the oil cooler, then reinstalled it without lock-tighting or even cleaning the threads...A military application of the same thing would use inspected safety wire on the screw..
This is an example of what I meant by "professionalism"..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i was going to use washers to increase clamping area and to decrease the chance of damage *if* for whatever reason (clamp gnomes?) the screw came loose or broke. Loc-tite will be used on the screw threads. i noticed that the clamp's threaded screw hole is actually a 'tube' as there is a hole on the other side. IOW, a long screw is needed so that a nut can be placed on the other end.

it would be great if someone could post a pic of a service manual and how all of this is supposed to go together - just so i know the right way. ;) and also so i know exactly which size o-rings and which size screw/nut for the clamp, recommended torque, etc. (don't want the thing breaking. i usually go hand-tight and then a 1/4 turn as a rule of thumb.)

thanks.
 

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it seems that this bracket could have been designed better
That bracket shouldnt be there at all... it should be banjo union fittings, but I guess this is 'yet another' little accounting cost saving exercise... Such a shame these cars are riddled with niggles like this.

Oh, and the screw will have corroded itself to oblivion... the oil cooler is aluminium... and the screw is steel...

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=MOCMMS3-6-8

The cooler might be adapted to use these, and then the possibility of competition grade cooler lines becomes a real joy...

Have fun :)



Owen
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for the info.

'competition grade' oil cooling may be a project for the next owner. ;)

so an aluminum screw should be used. good info.

any idea what size screw was there to begin with?
 

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I'd look at a stainless bolt - better able to hold the tension needed, and will not corrode like mild steel...

To fix, I would:-

drop the cooler,
Clean the damned thing up...
gently drill the current fastening hole, and re-tap it to accept a slightly larger bolt.

(eg. use an m5 bolt - you'll need to drill out to either 4 or 4.5mm and an M5 tap - the drill hole size should be specified on the tap). Use a light oil as a cutting fluid - 1/2 turn in, 1/4 turn back for a revolution, then back out 3/4 turn (to help clear the swarf). Its a tedious process, but it wont take long.

Fix up using a stainless bolt of the right size.


Have fun



Owen
 

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Sorry to dig this back up. But I'm kind of having the same problem except my line is no good and is starting to leak. I was wondering if any one knows of a fitting that will press in to the oil cooler with the yellow o-ring but instead of the oil line it would just be a barb fitting so you could run a standard 1/2 inch oil line clamped on to the barb fitting with a hose clamp.

Again sorry to dig this up but I figured it was a good thread to hijack because it already has the pictures posted.
 

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Sorry to dig this back up. But I'm kind of having the same problem except my line is no good and is starting to leak. I was wondering if any one knows of a fitting that will press in to the oil cooler with the yellow o-ring but instead of the oil line it would just be a barb fitting so you could run a standard 1/2 inch oil line clamped on to the barb fitting with a hose clamp.

Again sorry to dig this up but I figured it was a good thread to hijack because it already has the pictures posted.
The o-ring size is a 11mm ID by 3mm so I'd expect the ID of the hose to be 11mm (7/16"). I doubt it is 13mm (1/2").

Easiest answer is to take the hoses off the car and to a hydraulic hose shop. They can replace the hoses while retaining the original metal ends. Quick, easy and very affordable.

But, if you can find some 11mm ID hose, there's a good chance you could carefully cut the old hose off the current fittings and use hose clamps. You might need to flare the hose ends of the metal fittings to keep the hose from sliding off under pressure.
 
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