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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new to my saab


where do you fill and drain the engine oil ?

and where do you fill and drain the gear oil ?


is the oil cooler for the gear box or the engine ?

does the turbo use the engine oil ? or no oil (i think mines a liquid cooled turbo ?) its a 90 spg
 

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Piccies Please!

Oil Drain plug is a 13mm hex head near the front, to the left.

Transmission drain plug on my '88 is a 12mm internal hex (allen key type) at centre rear, but IIRC yours may not have one.

Oil cooler is for engine.

Turbo is cooled by engine oil and by coolant.
 

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use a half inch wrench on the engine oil bolt, it fits a little snugger so there is no risk of rounding it off.
 

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yfs87 said:
use a half inch wrench on the engine oil bolt, it fits a little snugger so there is no risk of rounding it off.
And if it starts to round then buy a new bolt to put back on before going any further.

I generally use a socket and breaker bar on mine. Always seem to round off with a spanner.

Sometimes you have to loosen them off with a hammer and chisel if the Previous owner didnt change the oil as much as they hould have done.
 

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My 88 turbo doesn't have a drain for transmission (I think!) Done three oil changes since getting it and only had to top up transmission the first time. I am going to look for that 12mm allen screw now just in case!

The big pain for me is getting the old oil filter off. I pierce it with a screwdriver (the old filter is getting disposed of anyway) and loosen it using the shaft of the screwdriver for leverage before unscrewing by hand - a strap wrench just slips and there isn't enough space for leverage on a wrench anyway.
 

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once you get it off just finger tighten it as tight as it will go by hand. thats all it should need and you can avoid this problem in the future.
 

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I guess Jim isn't hear to pipe in that Saab never specified a gear oil change interval because it wasn't warranted, so I will. There is no no interval or specific need to change the gear oil.
 

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There is nothing to break down the gear oil apart from friction, ist not like engine oil that has to absorb the blow by gases from the pistons, another good reason to have a good condition PCV system in place.

Do the Automatic box take the same amount of oil as the manual boxes?

I have done over 4k miles with synthetic gear oil and its better than its ever been, even on frosty mornings its smooths up in 100 meters of road.
 

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Shadow- The auto box takes, 8.5 U.S. qts, 7.2 Imperial qts., 8 litres. The manual box takes 3 U.s. qts, 2.5 litres and I dont know how many Imp.qts.
 

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Oh waaa I have like 3.5 litres in my gearbox:lol:

Why does the Autobox take sooooo much more oil, is the same size right?
 

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All those people who say not to change your gearbox oil, have you done it before? Or do you prefer to save $50 and have sludgey grimey oil which does nothing to properly lubricate your gearboxes?


Dont be tight...
 

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****** said:
All those people who say not to change your gearbox oil, have you done it before? Or do you prefer to save $50 and have sludgey grimey oil which does nothing to properly lubricate your gearboxes?


Dont be tight...
Yeah. I don't see how changing the gearbox oil can cause any harm.
 

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ShadowWorks said:
Oh waaa I have like 3.5 litres in my gearbox:lol:

Why does the Autobox take sooooo much more oil, is the same size right?
'cos it uses it for power transmission as well as lubrication. The torque converter takes about 4 or 5 litres on its own. This being in place of the manual's dry clutch explains much of the extra amount.
 

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yfs87 said:
once you get it off just finger tighten it as tight as it will go by hand. thats all it should need and you can avoid this problem in the future.
I do that, perhaps next change I shall make it fingertip tight rather than hand tight!
 

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Spin the filter on until you can feel the previously lubricated gasket ring make contact with the mounting surface. Then another half turn and you should be fine.

Always check for leaks while it runs for a minute or two.

Finger tip tight might leave you open for leaks, or the catastrophic loss of oil if the filter vibrated loose from its mount.:eek:
 

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****** said:
All those people who say not to change your gearbox oil, have you done it before? Or do you prefer to save $50 and have sludgey grimey oil which does nothing to properly lubricate your gearboxes?


Dont be tight...
The oil in your gearbox will never get sludgey and grimey. The worst that happens is you get teensey little metal flakes in there.
 

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Question

I have a 1990 Saab - manual.

Does it have the same 12 mm internal hex nut ?

I also noticed two nuts side by side underneath the transmission. What is the diference and why two of these ?

Can you please confirm that I open up the 12 mm nut that is closed to the rear of teh car to change the gearbox oil.

What type of oil do you use for the gearbox ?

What is PCV system in place ?

Since the gearbox is weak in these cars does changing the gearbox oil help that ?
 

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On my older boxes the drains are labelled by raised text in the casting itself. Clean the bottom off and have a look.
 
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