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Discussion Starter #1
I'm sure this may have been discussed in past. But how do you go about changing your oil urself/instructions for a pepboys/autozone to follow. I can reset the car % myself right now, I just wanna know what they gotta do so I dont have another vacuum pump leak...
 

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SwizzDrums said:
I'm sure this may have been discussed in past. But how do you go about changing your oil urself/instructions for a pepboys/autozone to follow. I can reset the car % myself right now, I just wanna know what they gotta do so I dont have another vacuum pump leak...
1. Buy a filter, buy 6L of 0w40 Mobil 1
2. Croll under the car, anscrew the drainplug with a wranch of proper size. Drainplug is located on the driver side of oil pan, facing the wheel.
3. Let oil drain (oil should be warm) - for about 30 min
4. Put the plug back, use a tourque wranch to tighten it to proper tourque found in you manual I believe
5. Take the valve shroud of by undoing 4 or 6 star screws
6. Filter is located on bottom right corner (if you are looking at the valve cover). Move the wire that is near by and use proper socket to undo plastic filter cover.
7. Pull the filter out.
8 Put new filter in, oil the O-ring, put back the filter cover.
9. Pour in 2-3 liters of oil, look under the car for leaks,
10, Pour another 2 liters, check level. Pretty much pour 6 quarts for now.
11. Start it up, make sure no leaks. shut it off, let it sit for a while, check oil level, top it off to proper level.
 

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Oil change sounds pretty straightforward. Do you need a new drain plug gasket with each change? Why is the first poster worried about a vacuum leak?:confused:
 

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Saabseeker said:
Oil change sounds pretty straightforward. Do you need a new drain plug gasket with each change? Why is the first poster worried about a vacuum leak?:confused:
It will not hurt, it is pretty cheap. I am not sure what the deal is with the vacuum leak...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I took it to a pepboys when I first got car and they ended up I think breaking the vacuum pump. I had it replaced under warranty, maybe it happened by itself on its own but I dont think so, I think the pepboys was just incompetent because there was no data on the 9-3 at the time when I was going to do oil change. Every place I go to never has data on this car, I dont want to spend $85+ taking it to dealer when I know it can be done for like $30. What I think I will do is print out the instructions listed here and take it to a local autoshop for them to do it for me. If it goes well, then all is good.
 

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SwizzDrums said:
I took it to a pepboys when I first got car and they ended up I think breaking the vacuum pump. I had it replaced under warranty, maybe it happened by itself on its own but I dont think so, I think the pepboys was just incompetent because there was no data on the 9-3 at the time when I was going to do oil change. Every place I go to never has data on this car, I dont want to spend $85+ taking it to dealer when I know it can be done for like $30. What I think I will do is print out the instructions listed here and take it to a local autoshop for them to do it for me. If it goes well, then all is good.
Just do it yourself.
 

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I would open the oil filler cap and take the oil filter out and keep it open prior to taking the oil drain plug out. This would make the oil drain a little faster. Changing oil should take no longer than 45 minutes (if that). Good Luck!
 

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SwizzDrums said:
I took it to a pepboys when I first got car and they ended up I think breaking the vacuum pump. I had it replaced under warranty,
You really got me on this vacuum pump business. Sure it wasn't a vacuum line, because those run in the vicinity of the filter?

I don't think this car has a lot of vacuum driven accessories. Mainly it's underhood stuff like brakes and turbo actuators which need vacuum. Usually these separate pumps are on diesel cars.

Here are some pictures and descriptions of various pumps:
http://www.msi-motor-service.com/download/broschueren/vakuumpumpen.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I dunno, all I do know is it did fail was replaced. Maybe it had more to do with my car being the lemon that it is than pepboys, however there was never a leak or issue until I took it to them. And if you could be there when I was speaking with the mechanic who was working on the car, you just got the feeling he didnt know what he was doing/broke it. It was just the look in his eyes and how he was talking to me about it. But anyways, yea it failed and was replaced by dealer under warranty. All I do remember was when it broke, a lot of oil was going all over the place, wasnt pretty. You know it would be really cool if someone posted pictures of doing an oil change on the car, would be greatly appreciated. I'm kinda a novice when it comes to oil change but I would like to do it myself. When it comes to computers I do everything myself, build it and all so you know, good to learn another trade. Will I need to lift this car off the ground and if so what tools should I use to acheive such
 

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SwizzDrums said:
Will I need to lift this car off the ground and if so what tools should I use to acheive such
Changing oil is pretty easy on the 93SS.

I usually drive up ramps to change oil. But my Vector's front spoiler prevents that. I don't know if you can get a Linear on ramps easily. I believe in convenience for everything. So I use ramps, a creeper, and one of those oil drain pans with a hole in the middle for catching oil and a spout on the side for pouring into gallon jugs or other disposal vessels. Ramps and the creeper are optional if you don't mind laying on the ground. I used to save big cardboard boxes to make it easier to slide on the ground.

The filter is cartridge type which drops in the top of the engine. You will need a 32 mm socket to get the cover off. This is the only special tool you might have to work to find. You will also need a socket set (metric) to get the oil drain plug off, as well as the oil filter cap. The oil filter cap is in a kind of tight spot, so you might want to get some 3/8 extensions and a universal joint. The 32 mm socket will be 1/2" drive, so you need a 3/8-1/2 adapter. You will need to get the plastic shroud off the top of the engine. That's held by torx screws. So you either need the right torx bit for your screwdriver, or the actual size torx screwdriver. That should be it for tools.

Sounds like a lot, but I recommend you buy the house-brand tools at your auto parts store. These will be dirt cheap, made in China, and usually carry a lifetime replacement guarantee. The alternative is the house brand at your hardware store, Home Depot, or Lowes. Sears Craftsman tools are nice, but overpriced.

Must have tools:
1) Plastic oil drain pan ($10)
2) 3/8" metric socket set, 15-20 piece set ($25)
3) 32 mm socket ($6-30) (buy the cheapest you find)
4) 3/8 extension (9" long) ($3)
5) 3/8-1/2 adapter ($2)
6) 3/8 universal joint ($3)
7) Torx bit or screwdriver ($2)
8) plastic funnel to pour oil into engine (prevents spillage)

Someone here will know the exact sizes of the oil filter drain plug and torx screws. I think the drain plug may be 15 mm. The screwdriver in the spare tire compartment probably fits the torx screws on the engine shroud.

Buy the tools on the list. Keep them in their packaging until you are sure you need them. You may be able to get by without the extension and universal joint.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you

Thanks all for the help, I will make attempt within the coming week and take photos so all can see how it is done. I do not own any ramps, think it be safe to jack the car up using the a jack *original crumpled...* so a lil concerned. lol.
 

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Don't use a jack. Get a pair of rhino ramps at autozone for $30. Drive up the ramps, and it's smooth sailing from there. You may get a little dirty, but can avoid it if you do a few simple things. On tip on the ramps, keep moving until you hit the top of the ramps, if you don't , the ramps will slide out from underneath the wheels. This is no biggie though, it's not dangerous or anything, it will just frustrate you the first couple times, that is all.

This is what I learned my first time.

Make sure to put down lots of cardboard, as the oil will shoot further than you expect the first time.

Hold the drainpan as you finish undoing the plug. Let it all drop in the drain pan, and then slowly put it down as you judge the oil flow. Pull out the plug from the oil.

When you unscrew the filter put a bag or something around it, and then unscrew it(make sure its not hot enough to melt the bag), this will let everything drop into the bag, and save you a big mess.

Lastly wear some sort of gloves, I go with the thick dishwashing gloves that come up to the forearm...oil can be HOT!
 

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DougR has some great tips.

I will add that driving up on ramps can be intimidating if you've never done it. It's a bit easier if you have an auto tranny. Don't even bother trying if your wheels or ramps are wet. You'll probably end up kicking them out.

You have to be careful if you don't make it all the way up the first couple times. The car will start to roll back. It bounces a bit as it does. Depending on clearance of the front spoiler you risk rubbing the ramps on your way down, or cracking the spoiler.

Ramps are a great, cheap addition to your garage. But they take practice. You WILL roll back unexpectedly the first few times. Be sure no one (especially small children) is in the vicinity.

If you buy ramps and have a smooth surface to work on, you should eventually treat yourself to a cheap Chinese Mechanic's Creeper. This is the thing you lay on that rolls on six wheels. You need a smooth, flat surface for it to work. They only clear the ground by about 3/4". With the car on ramps you will be able to easily roll back to the middle of the car's underside to inspect and work on things. You don't need to go that far to change oil. But with a creeper it's like zip under, zip out. Always beware of hot parts under the car, as you can quickly get too close for comfort!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Definately some good tips

Thanks guys. I'm starting to feel real confident about this, especially after finding out my girlfriend changes her own oil on her car *Mitsubishi Lancer* so I'd rather not look like a fool doing my own car, she'll be present so I wanna look like a pro. Before I go on this mini spending spree, I shall ask around for the ramps, I'm sure one of my friends has a set. And yes I have auto tranny so they actually is good for something for once. Thanks once again, oh yea and ctrlz, I'm adding a basslink sub this summer, bout time I upgrade the 7/150. I felt like a chump when I sat in Lancer and sound system was comparable if not better. And I'm not talking the Lancer Evolution, just a simple Lancer, we all know this car is worlds beyond that one, or at least is supposed to be so Imma take care of this and that now.
 

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One tip I've heard about the ramps, if you have the lower Vector/Aero spoiler, and you think you might scratch it on the ramps, use longer planks of wood to make the slope less aggresive. I haven't actually tried this, just something I heard.
 
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