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Hi, my odometer and tripometer are broken. They do not change, but the speedo does work. What can I do to fix this? Thanks, Thanh
 

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Here you go.........

To repair the odometer you need to remove the instrument cluster, so remove the following; steering wheel & shrouds, speaker/air vent (to disconnect Speedo cable)
Dash facia, there are 4 vertical screws that need to be removed; these are all different lengths so keep them in order (they are marked 1-4). Stereo. Pull the dash forward and disconnect all switch's be careful of heater control as this is connected by a rod with a u/j type joint and can be broken, you can see the rod through the speaker/air vent. Mark the wiring positions on the blower motor switch as these can get mixed up, as they're not in a multiplug!

You can now remove the 4 screws that hold in the instrument cluster, disconnect Speedo first, then the 2 multiplugs on either side of the dash. You should now be able to withdraw the cluster. Next remove screws in back of cluster to remove gauges and tachometer; these can be lifted off together with the printed circuit. Next remove the Speedo head, you need to get the Speedo facia off, so pull the needle below and past the needle stop pin, this will be the position to refit the needle on reassembly. Next pull off the needle and remove the 2 small screws to remove the facia.

The fix is to push the small plastic cog back into mesh with the worm drive, this cog is to the left of the top row of digits and seems to slide off the end of the shaft after a period of time, I think you will see what has happened once you can see the Speedo workings, mine just pushed back on and has been working for several thousand miles, but you may wish to use some sort of glue if you wish!

Now it's just the simple matter of refitting everything in the reverse order. This maybe a good time to replace, the instrument cluster bulbs, clean both sides of the instrument cluster glass etc...
 

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Question...my odometer/tripometer stopped working too, and just like the first guy, my speedo works fine. When I drive, I can hear a click in the odometer every 10th of a mile.

This first happened last week. I finally discovered where the click was coming from while I was driving. I reset the tripometer and things started rolling again until it got to about 7 miles, then it stopped rolling and began clicking again. I reset it once more, and it rolled about 4 miles then stopped.

Do you think John-w's solution will fix my problem?
 

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yeah pretty much. There are gears in there, and the gears for some reason start slipping on their shaft or go out of alignment. Put some glue or whatever and then fixed.
 

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900t said:
yeah pretty much. There are gears in there, and the gears for some reason start slipping on their shaft or go out of alignment. Put some glue or whatever and then fixed.
Are you talking about putting a dab of glue on the shaft behind the last gear so that they don't slide anymore?
 

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Just find the one that is slipping on the shaft and reglue it to the shaft. They break loose from the shaft after a while then the gear just spins on the shaft instead of spinning the shaft.
 

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Pretty much. Your gear could have cracked as well... you won't know until you have it apart.
 

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I had one with a broken gear too, you just use more glue....:)
 

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There's only one gear fixed to the shaft. The rest are free spinning and only stay in place by interfering with each other.
 

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Odo repair

Ryan -- I've taken apart the speedo on my old 85 spg and 83 turbo to fix dead odometers that had the exact same symptoms you're having .. it wasn't hard but I read the online info... took me a sec to play around and figure out what's going on.

One thing to take note of is that there's a way you can put the gear thing back on so that the dials end up being is 1/2 off from where it should be... ie instead of 100003.1 it ends up being 100002/3.1 (the 2/3 is text for halfway between the 2 and 3). Anyway, it looks dumb but the thing still works. So try to watch out for that.

ALSO - I can't remember - your car's an 88 right? Not sure which speedo that has but I believe 88 and back were the same, if so you're in luck.

It gets way trickier when you try and repair the odo on an 89-94 c900 -- the speedos are different and 'sealed' on the back, you can't just undo the odometer/speedometer from one another. Haven't figured out the way to fix that yet (and luckily the odos on both my 89 and 90 SPGs are working A-OK, for now).

Also -- word of advice -- just don't use the trip reset button. I'm convinced that hitting it while driving combined with aging brittle plastic is what is the death rattle for these VDO units.

Ben
 

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Yeah, I'm probably going to tackle this sometime after the holidays. Thanks for your notes and suggestions....I will definitely take those into account when I tear this thing apart.

I don't normally hit the trip button while I'm moving. I do reset it every fill-up though.
 

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will be the position to refit the needle on reassembly. Next pull off the needle and remove the 2 small screws to remove the facia.

How much force is required to pull the needle off? I have tried a fair amount, but it seems to be on there pretty firmly...
 

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It requires a damn good amount of force to get that thing off. When I did it to my spare to roll up the odometer to a more accurate mileage, I thought that I had broken it, but then discovered that I hadn't, it just has some way of fitting on there that makes it hard to get off/on.
 

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Is there a particular method of removing the speedo needle? I haven't tackled my odometer yet because it's been way too cold to get outside and work on it.

However it's beginning to warm up and I want to get this fixed.

I'm afraid of two things.

a.) I'll break the needle
b.) I'll scratch the fascia

Are there any recommended tools or precautions any of you can recommend to reduce the chance of either of the above from happening?
 

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ryan_in_nashville said:
a.) I'll break the needle
work in really close to the spindle while trying to pop it off so you're not levering it to excess. If they're like VW needles (they're VDO's, right?) the hole in the needle is almost like a circlip - so it resists coming off - if you support it underneath on three sides and yank straight up the needle will come off - it'll also probably fly off to parts unknown unless you put some tape on it to connect it to whatever tool you've fabricated to yank it. I have used a fuse remover (for the blade fuses) on VW's - and it worked (didn't scratch a thing) - it's worth a shot.

ryan_in_nashville said:
b.) I'll scratch the fascia?
pad where your tools come in contact - be prepared with a black sharpie to cover any "oopsies"
 
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