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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks,

Over the last couple of months I've noticed some problems with gear selection in my T16S. Mostly obstinately not wanting to go into 1st or 2nd, with the occasional not being able to find 3rd. Alarm bells were ringing...

Then a fortnight or so ago I was getting creaking from the passenger footwell every time I used the clutch. Alarm bells, klaxons, red alert, abandon ship, etc. - this is exactly what happened 3 years ago when the weld broke in the pedal box on the clutch. Drove it straight home and have been in the Mazda since!

Anyway, braved the journey to my parents in the Saab complete with AA card - gear selection still tricky at times, but no problem once in gear, and no creaking. Went out for a blast today and it was fine...

So - I reckon the clutch is OK as there's no slipping and it's biting pretty near the floor (in fact maybe too near). Hydraulics should be OK as there's no fluid leaking. Could be the 'box itself as it's a 160k miles original, but no whining or popping out (and it's the later 91- box).

So I am wondering if it's one of weld going again / gearbox linkage / selector forks... Or maybe the syncro going (but odd for it to be dodgy on 2 gears at the same time)...

Thoughts?
 

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It could be your clutch master cylinder going out.....especially since it seems to be inconsistant. If it's catching really low and it didn't before then I would say it's either your master or possibly your slave. The slave usually will leave some nice fluid on the driveway, but I've had several master's go out with no fluid leaking.

A way to test if it's the master is to pump your brakes several times before engaging your clutch, if the clutch feels tighter and a little more normal then it did before you pumped the brakes...then more than likely it's on it way out. I've had several go out, I had all the same warning signs as you, gears difficult to engage, low clutch pedal, and each time I put off fixing it. Then one day you'll be at a traffic light and go for the clutch...and nothng happens:eek::eek:..it's not fun...trust me;oops:
 

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fliptopbin said:
I was getting creaking from the passenger footwell every time I used the clutch.
I had a clutch that would squeek everytime you depressed the clutch pedal. Squeek seemed to come from passenger footwell. I removed knee bolster and put some chassis grease on the clutch bar at any pivot point that moved. That curred the squeek.

I find 2nd gear is often a bit notchy on C900s I have driven, and occasionally it can be difficult to get in gear, but I have never had problems with 3rd gear.
 

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fliptopbin said:
...it's biting pretty near the floor (in fact maybe too near).
That's an indicator of trouble; either in the linkage or hydraulics.
Don't ignore it as it is certainly damaging the clutch disc, and possibly damaging the synchronisers in the gearbox.
 

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It is possible to test the selector linkage with the engine off. When i was realigning the linkage after refitting the gearbox, I did most of it with the engine off, and the clutch pedal up! Before stopping the engine, select neutral. Then stop the engine and leave up the clutch pedal. The idea is to see if you can find the gears without actually engaging them. If you feel even the slightest crunch then you need to adjust the linkage. If the linkage is getting worn it can be quite difficult to adjust. If you adjust the lever too much to the left it will go into 1st and 2nd easily, but crunch on 5th. If you adjust it too much to the right it will go into 5th easily, but crunch on 1st and 2nd.

Another test is to engage the gear with the engine off and the pedal down. You have to engage extremely slowly and count the number of crunches you feel!! You should feel 2 crunches. One when you engage the syncro ring and one when you engage the teeth on the gear. If you feel a third crunch, you need to adjust.

To engage third gear is completely different. If you try to find it yourself, you probably wont! You have to leave the gear lever find it for you! In neutral, the lever should spring away from 1st and 5th and align with 3rd. Gently tip the lever from side to side and push it straight foward. There is a bit of a nack in finding 3rd gear!(especially when the linkage gets a bit worn)
 

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On a related note, I put new clutch line, master, and slave cylinders in my 900. How far should I press the pedal before the clutch is engaged? I just want to figure out if I need to do more bleeding. :cheesy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just a quick update - car is currently with Rowan at South East Saab when he gets a mo to look at it. He suspects it's a linkage of some sort on the end of the master cylinder where the holes have elongated and need drilling out with a bigger pin in it (over the phone diagnosis).

Hopefully get it back soon, really missing it (barely driven since mid December).
 

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I did this job with three different cars. In all cases, I just bend down the heater duct and do the drilling in place. You need a 10mm clevis pin in place of the 8mm one. The drilling is a bit awkward but it's possible. Should take no more than 1/2 hour.
 
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