That's what I've heard, too. If the car was sold in the US after 96, it had to be OBDII compliant, but in the UK it was only after 2000. I just researched this to buy my own scanner.I thought models prior to my2000 were not OBDII compliant in the UK. US yes.
I don't know if this would work, but have you tried removing the 17 fuse with the engine off to reset it since? Let it sit a couple of minutes without the fuse, it should reset everything. Don't leave the OBDII on it while you do this. Then start it back up. Maybe that would reset the ECM.OK, I have the obd2 reader.
I plugged it in and at once it was talking to the EMS, however it would show no codes, confused and in a moment of frustration I pulled the fuse (No 17), with the engine running, after a quick "oups" I put the fuse back in, the car proceeded to tell me of by dinging at me and showing me an additional light "GEARBOX WARNING", I started my reader and there was a code, I knew I created this fault so I pressed clear and it went away.
with no engine light on at all I set off to test again, but, as soon as I put my foot to the floor the damn EMS light came on again, ran the tester and it shows no code and will not clear.
I know that the reader is working because of the "oups" fault, I am now wondering if there could be a fault with the EMS.
If any SAAB savi peeps read this, I remove fuse 17 for 2 min, light goes out, as long as I dont put my foot down it stays out, as soon as I put my foot down (for like 1/2 second) the light comes back on.
The car has a little less power but it does not appear to go into limp home mode.
I am confused ????
I have had my battery in and out probably 50 times in the past year and have never heard of that process or had to do it.I read also that when you unhook the battery, you have to reset the ECM and the CPS. You reset the CPS by revving the engine to 6000 RPMs and letting it fall to at least 2000 RPMs five times.
According to Mitchell 1, it's part of the "computer relearn procedure" for Saab. It's is a mechanic's database, so it's geared towards testing the car and turning it back over to the owner in perfect running order. Most of us would just start the car, drive it around for ten minutes, gun it a few times, and consider it a "breaking in" period, so we'd cover the bases then. But if you are disconnecting the battery, then starting the car to test it while idling, depending on the error, you could think something was still wrong when it just hadn't been broken in yet.I have had my battery in and out probably 50 times in the past year and have never heard of that process or had to do it.
Seems awfully extreme to me.
Has anyone heard of this procedure for resetting the CPS? If anyone has done it, was there any benefit? I just replaced mine today so if it needs a reset I'd do it now...seems kind of random though.I read also that when you unhook the battery, you have to reset the ECM and the CPS. You reset the CPS by revving the engine to 6000 RPMs and letting it fall to at least 2000 RPMs five times.
Right, I know it's just a magnet, I guess I was just wondering whether the ECU needed some "duty cycles" of the CPS as suggested in this thread to adjust itself to a new one (or if the battery is pulled). I suppose even if it's done over the course of several driving cycles it would eventually get done, if it's even necessary.The CPS is a hall-effect sensor, there is NO intelligence in it. The ECU has all of the smarts to read it.
Thus, there is no such thing to "reset" the CPS. It either works or it doesn't.