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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I currently own a 1999 Saab 9-5 SE 2.3l, I am trying to find out if it is OBD II Compliant.

Does anyone have a good way of telling if my car is or is not?

btw it does have a 16 pin DLC under the Steering Colum and I am in the UK.
 

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Have the same car and yes it is obdII.All 96-newer are obdII. I actually got a scanner to read and clear my own codes without having to go to a parts store.Worth the $50.
 

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I thought models prior to my2000 were not OBDII compliant in the UK. US yes.
That's what I've heard, too. If the car was sold in the US after 96, it had to be OBDII compliant, but in the UK it was only after 2000. I just researched this to buy my own scanner.

Of course, calling a Saab mechanic and asking might give you a better answer. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That is also how I understood it, however I would like to know how I can tell, where would it tell me ? can I test it to see etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Also, if it is not OBD II, what is it and how or what would I use to get at the codes?

Thanks again for your responses up to now ;ol;
 

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I think under the hood, there should be some stickers/engravings that should tell you whether it is OBDII compliant
 

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My UK 2000 is ODB compliant. It was only mandatory in Europe from 2001 but many manufacturers did it earlier as it was mandatory in US from 1996.

I've yet to hear of a UK 9-5 that's not ODB compliant. (but prove me wrong!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK, I have the obd2 reader.

I plugged it in and at once it was talking to the EMS, however it would show no codes, confused and in a moment of frustration I pulled the fuse (No 17), with the engine running, after a quick "oups" I put the fuse back in, the car proceeded to tell me of by dinging at me and showing me an additional light "GEARBOX WARNING", I started my reader and there was a code, I knew I created this fault so I pressed clear and it went away.

with no engine light on at all I set off to test again, but, as soon as I put my foot to the floor the damn EMS light came on again, ran the tester and it shows no code and will not clear.

I know that the reader is working because of the "oups" fault, I am now wondering if there could be a fault with the EMS.

If any SAAB savi peeps read this, I remove fuse 17 for 2 min, light goes out, as long as I dont put my foot down it stays out, as soon as I put my foot down (for like 1/2 second) the light comes back on.
The car has a little less power but it does not appear to go into limp home mode.

I am confused ????
 

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OK, I have the obd2 reader.

I plugged it in and at once it was talking to the EMS, however it would show no codes, confused and in a moment of frustration I pulled the fuse (No 17), with the engine running, after a quick "oups" I put the fuse back in, the car proceeded to tell me of by dinging at me and showing me an additional light "GEARBOX WARNING", I started my reader and there was a code, I knew I created this fault so I pressed clear and it went away.

with no engine light on at all I set off to test again, but, as soon as I put my foot to the floor the damn EMS light came on again, ran the tester and it shows no code and will not clear.

I know that the reader is working because of the "oups" fault, I am now wondering if there could be a fault with the EMS.

If any SAAB savi peeps read this, I remove fuse 17 for 2 min, light goes out, as long as I dont put my foot down it stays out, as soon as I put my foot down (for like 1/2 second) the light comes back on.
The car has a little less power but it does not appear to go into limp home mode.

I am confused ????
I don't know if this would work, but have you tried removing the 17 fuse with the engine off to reset it since? Let it sit a couple of minutes without the fuse, it should reset everything. Don't leave the OBDII on it while you do this. Then start it back up. Maybe that would reset the ECM.

I read also that when you unhook the battery, you have to reset the ECM and the CPS. You reset the CPS by revving the engine to 6000 RPMs and letting it fall to at least 2000 RPMs five times. You reset the ECM by driving it for five minutes in a varied manner... In other words, don't just cruise for five minutes. Stop, start, accelerate, slow, all that. I don't know if you have to do that for the fuse, but I do think you have to drive it a bit to let the ECM break in.
 

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I read also that when you unhook the battery, you have to reset the ECM and the CPS. You reset the CPS by revving the engine to 6000 RPMs and letting it fall to at least 2000 RPMs five times.
I have had my battery in and out probably 50 times in the past year and have never heard of that process or had to do it.

Seems awfully extreme to me.
 

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I have had my battery in and out probably 50 times in the past year and have never heard of that process or had to do it.

Seems awfully extreme to me.
According to Mitchell 1, it's part of the "computer relearn procedure" for Saab. It's is a mechanic's database, so it's geared towards testing the car and turning it back over to the owner in perfect running order. Most of us would just start the car, drive it around for ten minutes, gun it a few times, and consider it a "breaking in" period, so we'd cover the bases then. But if you are disconnecting the battery, then starting the car to test it while idling, depending on the error, you could think something was still wrong when it just hadn't been broken in yet.
 

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Sorry to bring this up, but...

I read also that when you unhook the battery, you have to reset the ECM and the CPS. You reset the CPS by revving the engine to 6000 RPMs and letting it fall to at least 2000 RPMs five times.
Has anyone heard of this procedure for resetting the CPS? If anyone has done it, was there any benefit? I just replaced mine today so if it needs a reset I'd do it now...seems kind of random though.

Thanks.
 

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The CPS is a hall-effect sensor, there is NO intelligence in it. The ECU has all of the smarts to read it.

Thus, there is no such thing to "reset" the CPS. It either works or it doesn't.
 

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The CPS is a hall-effect sensor, there is NO intelligence in it. The ECU has all of the smarts to read it.

Thus, there is no such thing to "reset" the CPS. It either works or it doesn't.
Right, I know it's just a magnet, I guess I was just wondering whether the ECU needed some "duty cycles" of the CPS as suggested in this thread to adjust itself to a new one (or if the battery is pulled). I suppose even if it's done over the course of several driving cycles it would eventually get done, if it's even necessary.
 
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