[czarmarciales]

Okay, today I finally had a helper to help diagnose the car. I was having no fuel delivery, but I was not sure about the spark.

Checked spark at plug: nothing
checked spark at coil: nothing.
Fuel pump: not working with key turn, OR jumping the fuse block.

The car ran fine after replacing the head gasket but then died suddenly shortly after driving it (about a week later and a few minutes into a grocery run). The battery was new at the time of rebuild.

I am in Alaska and there are NO Saab mechanics near me at all. I do NOT have the finances to pay a mechanic to fix. I do have the ability to do the work, just not wanting to chase down tons and tons fo leads. I am following the processes laid out in the repair manual (Robert Bently manuals).

Any more advice would be appreciated. Could this be a computer issue? Sensor issue?

Any help is good help at this point.

 

[jvanabra]

There are so many threads on this topic, I would really recommend starting with a search. Here are some:

https://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=728020&highlight=start
https://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=723250&highlight=start
https://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=721992&highlight=start
https://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=708273&highlight=start
https://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=669434&highlight=start
https://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=693113&highlight=start

 

[czarmarciales]

Test for ground?

my mechanical skills are good. electrical skills are bad. How do I test for ground?

 

[02Pilot]

my mechanical skills are good. electrical skills are bad. How do I test for ground?

Get a multimeter and set it to continuity. Put one probe on a piece of solid, unpainted metal (like the engine block) that is not insulated from the rest of the car (so nothing attached solely with rubber bushings), and put the other probe on the thing you want to test. There should be zero or near-zero resistance, and most multimeters will emit an audible tone when continuity is present.

 

[Jim Mesthene]

Do not use a continuity test to check grounds. That only tells you if it's connected enough to carry the current of a 9v battery.
Check grounds with a voltmeter. If you show more that 0.2v at any ground point it's badly grounded.
For example: If your rear defroster was switched on but had no ground, it would show 12v at one terminal and would show 12v at the other one also. A weak or bad ground might show 7v or 4v. Anything more than 0.2v is too much.

When you find voltage where there should be none, you have a bad ground.

 

[czarmarciales]

update.

So, I went through and one item at a time, testing things as per the manual. I rented a noid light kit to see if I was getting signal to the Fuel Injectors. I had disassembled the connectors that run from the CPS to the wiring harness (3-wire on my 1992 900s). So, I set the noid light and cranked the car to see if I was getting signal and it fired RIGHT up. I turned it off, removed the noid light and then turned it on again and it started up easily and idled for a bit. As it was running, I manipulated the wires that run from the connector back to the CPS to make sure it was not making contact with the pulley, and the car IMMEDIATELY died. Found the issue: bad sensor or wires between connection to rest of the harness back to the sensor.
New sensor and wires on order and it should be up and running in about a week (3-5 days shipping, add some extra days as I live in Alaska.)

Thanks for all your help.