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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone.

Shifting gears on my car wasn't the most pleasant thing to do since the day I bought it (second hand). Sometimes the 4th gear wouldn't want to engage and others it's just the whole notchiness (if there's such a word) of the gearbox that is a bit of an annoyance.
I was just wondering if there is an actual way to adjust the gear linkages manually and if there is, it doesn't require a hoist and $700 to do it. :)

Thanks,
tim.
 

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  1. Park vehicle, apply handbrake.
  2. Locate alignment hole in top of gearbox (next to part no. plate). Prise out plug on hole, select 4th gear, insert screwdriver in hole to lock in 4th.
  3. Inside the car, remove gear lever gaiter and mounting frame to expose the gearchange lever housing. Use another screwdriver or drill bit and insert in the alignment hole on the side of the lever housing.
  4. If this locking pin can be inserted easily, then the gearchange linkage is correct. If its difficult the linkage needs adjustment.
  5. In the engine bay, where the selector rod passes through the bulkhead, slacken the pinch-bolt adjacent to the rubber coupling, to allow movemen between the two halves of the selector rod.
  6. Move the gearlever so you can lock the screwdriver/drill bit into the alignment hole in the lever housing. (make sure its still in 4th)
  7. In the engine bay tighten the pinch-bolt on the selector rod.
  8. Remove the screwdriver from the gearbox alignment hole, and re-insert the plastic plug.
  9. Remove the screwdriver from the gear selector alignment hole, refit mountin frame and gear lever gaiter.
  10. Before moving the vehicle, make sure all 6 gears can be smoothly selected. (check the key can be removed when reverse is selected)
  11. Crack a tinny and celebrate, you've just saved yourself $150 at the dealers. :cheesy:
 

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I shall just add a bit to this excellent advice :)

On items 5 and 6

Make sure you use a screwdriver / drillbit that is near as a perfect fit in the holes, i think it was 6mm or 6.5mm.
Because the fine adjustment of the clamp 13mm nut at the bulkhead is very particular to get the perfect gear change.
As long as you align the holes in 4th, then with clamp slackened allow the linkage to sit happy with all holes aligned, then carefully tighten the clamp avoiding any movement of the linkage whilst tightening.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wow! Thanks heaps guys! I shall give it a try after reading what you've written many times. :)

Hopefully my questions won't arise in the middle of the actual excercise :)
 

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Check the gear linkage for wear. The adjustment procedure is dependant on the linkage being in good nick.
 

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I'd try changing the tranny oil to something like Redline MTL or the latest saab synthetic (Redline is cheaper :D ). I just changed to Redline MTL and am pretty pleased with the results.
 

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OK, just planning for worst case scenario.

What are the approx costs for making my gear change smooooooth - if it's not the fluid - and not the alignment?

I suppose it's the cost of a replacement linkage?

I'm not a mechanic - so any other ideas with costs would be great.

Cheers

(and thanks in advance!)
 
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Just a note. Even with a perfectly alligned gear box the 9-5 is known to have a reverse crunch in the manual. This is a design fault and Saab have a fix for it :) (But its not really worth the money) I have had my gear box re-built and I still get a tiny grind going into re-verse :roll:
 

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My Saab has been having difficulty moving into reverse lately. Probably about 50% of the time it will move into reverse, but the others, it's impossible. It feels like it is pressing against a spring or a flexible sheet of metal or something like that. If it costs too much to get it fixed at a repair shop, I'm going to have to sell it. :( Is there anything that I can do like you are talking about with adjusting the gear box that will save my car?
 

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MikoUmi said:
My Saab has been having difficulty moving into reverse lately. Probably about 50% of the time it will move into reverse, but the others, it's impossible. It feels like it is pressing against a spring or a flexible sheet of metal or something like that. If it costs too much to get it fixed at a repair shop, I'm going to have to sell it. :( Is there anything that I can do like you are talking about with adjusting the gear box that will save my car?
could be worn out synchro's. There is a replacement kit for the 'reverse package' in the gearbox. Look for the thread for this, it has been discussed before. Look into this link (http://www.genuinesaab.com/psi/file...rans-update.htm) these are updated for the trans solving various problems. You may also look into this one: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=81353, discussing issues with the trans. Mods can be done and no new box is required.

BTW it is not a cheap fix.

Arnie
 

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Arnie-

The first link you sent me sounds like it can be done under warranty, and also in the other thread you mentioned that you had it done under warranty. But here you said that it won't be a cheap fix?
 

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MikoUmi said:
Arnie-

The first link you sent me sounds like it can be done under warranty, and also in the other thread you mentioned that you had it done under warranty. But here you said that it won't be a cheap fix?
I had it done under warranty, they took out the transmission and replaced several what they called units. Under warranty :D it will not cost you anything when it is covered. When you don't have warranty on the transmission, it will be costly.

I had the same problem as you had, and it became worse over time, ending up with expensive noises when changing to reverse. This started just after delivery of the vehicle. The dealer had my car for a whole week, but it thinkg it can be done in two days.

Arnie
 

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Arnie said:
I had the same problem as you had, and it became worse over time, ending up with expensive noises when changing to reverse.
Arnie
Expensive noises? I'm not having any noises when I change...just the difficulty of getting it into reverse. Is it going to worsen and start making noises?

How much do you think it will cost to repair it? If it's too much, we're just going to have to get rid of it. :(

By the way, thanks for the time range. I was worrying about that...now all I have to do is drive down to Austin to get it to a dealership!
 

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MikoUmi said:
Expensive noises? I'm not having any noises when I change...just the difficulty of getting it into reverse. Is it going to worsen and start making noises?

How much do you think it will cost to repair it? If it's too much, we're just going to have to get rid of it. :(

By the way, thanks for the time range. I was worrying about that...now all I have to do is drive down to Austin to get it to a dealership!
The expensive noises I had, finally, after witnessing the same problems that you describe were grinding noises of several parts trying to align without success. You will get the same noise when wanting to shift without properly engaging the clutch.

For the costs you better refer to a good trannyshop or an Indy the dealer will probably cost you more. They would have quoted me €1.500,- if it wasn't done under warranty.

Arnie
 

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AeroNate said:
Then concerning the trans does this sound like it also needs a rebuild?


Any help would be apreciated on this. I originally posted this in the 9-3 sorkshop but perhaps someone here has a better idea.

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95818



Thanks

Nate
Well the problems mentioned over here deal with difficulty changing gears, not really popping out of gear, as a result of worn out synchro's. The replacements, see the thread above, are a cure for this. Basically, I thought that the tranny's for the 9-5 and 9-3 are very similar, only different gear ratio's used. Sorry that this doen't help you very much. I hope I clarified the 9-5 issues a bit.

Arnie
 

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Yeah, Thanks Arnie.

The gearbox is a Viggen and i thought that the Viggen and Aero had the same ones but i may be wrong there.

My buddy was able to find another trans from a Viggen with 62k on it and we are going to swap them out on wednesday. After which he will probably get the broken one fixed as he has 2 Viggens and will always have a back-up.

Is the SAAB manual trans prone to breaking?


Nate
 

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AeroNate said:
Yeah, Thanks Arnie.

The gearbox is a Viggen and i thought that the Viggen and Aero had the same ones but i may be wrong there.

My buddy was able to find another trans from a Viggen with 62k on it and we are going to swap them out on wednesday. After which he will probably get the broken one fixed as he has 2 Viggens and will always have a back-up.

Is the SAAB manual trans prone to breaking?


Nate
I only have heard rumours that the gearbox is not the strongest part. No solid evidence other than the patches mentioned earlier and the update for transmission fluid. A fact is that the gearbox is very compact for the amount of force they have to withstand, e.g. compare it to the enourmous BMW gearbox that have to withstand similar HP's. It is a very efficient design!

Arnie
 
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