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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to stop a leak of ATF from the auto trans in my 89 900i and it looks like the pan gaskets are shot.

I already have a spare kit of the special metal bracing to go on the outside of the pan lips, but I'm wondering if I should get new pans (since the newer type has a better lip design apparently) and also whether it's best to use standard gaskets for the pans or use Loctite 518?

I'm looking to do both the main pan gasket and the one under the torque converter section since both appear to have leaks. I already planned to change the ATF and I will also take out the ATF filter and clean it at the same time (since they're cleanable and shouldn't need replacing unless the consensus is otherwise).

Craig.
 

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Both pans have some profile on their lips, I can't explain it in english, but You can see it at photo here:

So, You cannot use Loctite for sealing, there is no flat surface to form seal there... Use special gasket. Look, what came inside a big set of spare seals and gaskets for restoration of automatic tranny from US. These gaskets are perfect, as I can see more then one year since i used them. No leak at all...


 

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I was advised by a transmission rebuilder to not use anything on the gaskets, but to make sure everything was totally dry and clean before installing. I used brake cleaner on a clean piece of white t-shirt then followed it with an alcohol wipe and dry then reassembled. Other than my leaving the one bolt out from the pan area, no leaks. I will advise to be strictly in line with the torques (75-106 in/lbs). Gasket crush is the most common failure I've run across.
 

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One very important thing. Be carefull when tightening pans screws. These gaskets are very sensitive to correct pressure, too much is bad, You can deform or destroy it easy. All screws have to be tightened with he same force. Correct torque is, I think, 8 - 10 Nm, but I have to check it inside service manual.
 

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Butting into this thread, I wish they did like VW did in their valve covers where the bolts press against a metal strip that sits on the top of the valve cover, which distributes the load. Or like Mercedes did in the valve cover gasket in my turbodiesel: put an aluminum spacer in the washer so to limit how much you can compress the gasket.

But I like to have weird dreams like those...
 

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Butting into this thread, I wish they did like VW did in their valve covers where the bolts press against a metal strip that sits on the top of the valve cover, which distributes the load. Or like Mercedes did in the valve cover gasket in my turbodiesel: put an aluminum spacer in the washer so to limit how much you can compress the gasket.

But I like to have weird dreams like those...

But they do ..(same as VW valve cover ) your dream is now reality . :lol:

As craig mentions in his post there is a metal brace (strip , bracket , whatever ) 2 piece that helps to ditribute the torque evenly across the 2 mating surfaces . Not seen in MIsus' picture .

The secret as said in other posts is applying a NEW cork gasket to perfectly clean and dry surfaces , then applying the correct torque evenly with this Bracket/spreader bar in place .
Use the same logic you would on a head gasket Craig , Extremities , opposites , working in to centre .
Craig , both pans off to drain as much ATf as possible , even then you dont get it all . Cleaning filter is fine in IMHO , also panel beat the Covers where required ( and it will be on the main )
 

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I used a green fiber material (non-cork) gasket I got from Eeuro. I only opened up the front pan, though.
I did the same as others, thoroughly cleaned and dried the surfaces and applied the gasket dry. Tightened all bolts to the proper torque, and it already had the 2 piece bracket/spreader which I reinstalled. For as much as I love 518, I didn't apply any here.

No leaks (at least from there! :lol: ) thus far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I will definitely be taking both pans off since I am well aware of how important it it to have clean fitting surfaces for installing any sort of new gasket, even in cases where Loctite 518 or similar is used. Contamination of mating surfaces is a no-no for good long-term reliability.

There is a place here in SA (right in the heart of Adelaide) that specialises in auto transmissions so I'll try them out for gaskets and I already have a new kit for the metal bracing pieces which I think also have new pans (forgot I'd brought it over from Sydney when I relocated the family to SA in January!).

It's Saab part # 10 29 542 on the rather faded label. It's got two of the same plate (it came from a mechanic that was closing down) and both of the special metal pressure-spreading pieces (one is numbered 011 and the other has 012 stamped on it) which each fit into two adjacent sides of the outside of each plate lip. Going on the pics that 'misu' has kindly included, it's the plate for under the main part of the transmission. I suspect there probably is a similar kit for the plate under the torque converter section.

I don't remember if the trans currently in my 89 900i has the metal pressure-spreading pieces already. I'm fairly sure the auto trans in my 81 turbo sedan does (fitted when the car had a complete mechanical service after I first bought it in 2007).

Craig.
 

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I need to stop a leak of ATF from the auto trans in my 89 900i and it looks like the pan gaskets are shot.

I already have a spare kit of the special metal bracing to go on the outside of the pan lips, but I'm wondering if I should get new pans (since the newer type has a better lip design apparently) and also whether it's best to use standard gaskets for the pans or use Loctite 518?

I'm looking to do both the main pan gasket and the one under the torque converter section since both appear to have leaks. I already planned to change the ATF and I will also take out the ATF filter and clean it at the same time (since they're cleanable and shouldn't need replacing unless the consensus is otherwise).

Craig.
If you want it to never, ever leak, use some 3m or Permatex weather strip adhesive. The yellow stuff. Don't use a lot, and let it dry before you fill it up with fluid. The stuff is a once and for all cure for leaky gasket sealers.
 

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I actually use Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker part number 51813. It is easier for me to find locally than the Loctite brand. All of their anaerobic gasket makers part numbers start with 518 and end in two other digits that are different due to package sizing (51817 is the 6ml tube, 51813 is the 50ml tube).
I think Permatex and Loctite were part of the same company at one time.
 

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I actually use Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker part number 51813. It is easier for me to find locally than the Loctite brand. All of their anaerobic gasket makers part numbers start with 518 and end in two other digits that are different due to package sizing (51817 is the 6ml tube, 51813 is the 50ml tube).
I think Permatex and Loctite were part of the same company at one time.
I think you are incorrect-they were competitors who are now part of the same umbrella company, but will clarify a little later.
 

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Not all anaerobic sealers are the same.
For most applications, you want the kind that stays pliable, whatever the brand name.
For the Transmission Primary Case, the rigid stuff is better.
 

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Update- Loc-tite and Permatex do not appear to be related companies. I utilize industrial adhesives and sealants and made an error. We may have to see about a sticky where updated (read changed) P/N's are posted for products we are used to seeing in the Bentley.
 
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