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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dear all,

I just bought a 2000 model 93 convertible at auction that has been fresh water affected although I can find no signs of water damage at all. I did the usual things of checking the cylinders and intake system for water before turning the engine by hand, then charging the battery and checking all fuses etc. The car powered up and sid check reported all ok - turn the key and the engine cranked, caught for a second and then died - next try it just cranked. As it had fired up for a second I focused on the fuel side, jumped the relay under the dash to check the pump which runs well. I am a little stuck at this point but am suspecting the remote receiver/immobiliser for a couple of reasons...I am unable to sync. the banana style remote to the car or get the sid to display the number of keys / remotes associated to the vehicle and yes I have changed the battery and checked the switches on the remote. I have read somewhere that if the car is locked by the remote it wont start again with just the key - is this true ? I would appreciate any input to help get the car running again - also is there a way to get the car to display any fault codes without a dedicated code reader.

Many Thanks.

Keith.
 

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If the engine cranked them immobilizer shouldn't be a problem.

Check the following

- spark in the spark plug (remove the ignition module for this)
- battery (use a battery tester, or get a boost from another vehicle).
- neutral switch (if you have auto gearbox)
- starter motor (try running wire to it directly)
 

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check cps. if the car does not detect cranking it will not start. how far under water was it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey guys, thanks for the quick responses - I know the battery is good, neutral switch is ok and starter motor is ok as the car will crank over easily but just not start. The CPS will be on my list of things to check, I have been wondering about this but am not sure how to test for a bad CPS - I have a multimeter so can check for voltage, resistance etc. etc,, just not sure what I need to look for so if you can tell me that would be great. I will double check for continuous spark but can confirm that the car did run briefly so suspect the problem is elsewhere, I will also drain the fuel tank. The keyfob is the banana type and I have checked it is getting power. I may disarm the alarm per the instructions if I don't get further with the other steps. No idea how deep under water the car went but it would be fresh water and for less than 24 hrs or it would have been declared suitable for parts only. Will let you know how I go in the morning.

Thanks again.

Keith.
 

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not much you can do to detect a bad cps. its nothing but a magnet that reads a wheel with notches and creates little pulses as each notch passes
 

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On the older cars (1994-1998), the immobilizer opened (removed battery) from 3 circuits - starter, fuel pump and ignition. An internal problem with the immobilizer can cause one or more of those three circuits to fail, and there is a documented strapping procedure to bypass it. I don't know if it will work on the newer cars though... Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK some updates, checked for resistance across any combination of the 3 wires from the CPS and found none but i'm not confident that I did the test properly as the engine will occasionally start for a moment, any tips here - I read the thread on checking the CPS but it doesn't indicate which of the three wires I should get resistance across. Next I pulled the DIC again, checked compression - all good - placed spark plugs in DIC and earthed to block, girlfriend cranked the car while I checked for spark - no spark! Put it back together, turned the key and the engine started for half a second and then died. So, looking away from the fuel system and back at spark...

Other things worth a mention - the trunk release button on the drivers door is not working and I read something about it being on the same circuit as the remote control receiver so may have a relay issue there, also the hood won't operate - push the switch forward with hood locked and the dash chirps it's warning note, release it from the windshield and try again, nothing in any direction and no relay noise.

Everything else on the car works well.

I am getting hold of a copy of the WIS so will have a look through there shortly for inspiration but want to start a basic no spark troubleshooting process for this car. If anyone has one please pass it on. Oh - I also rechecked all fuses.

Many thanks.

Keith.
 

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does the rev counter needle move when the engine is cranked over? Usually if it doesnt move at all when your crankin its the CPS. I think im right about that?!?

Hope this helps :)
 

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OK some updates, checked for resistance across any combination of the 3 wires from the CPS and found none but i'm not confident that I did the test properly as the engine will occasionally start for a moment, any tips here - I read the thread on checking the CPS but it doesn't indicate which of the three wires I should get resistance across. Many thanks.

Keith.
According to the WIS, you can check the CPS resistance on pins 1 and 2; pin 3 is a ground. Pin 1 is yellow, pin 2 in the middle is black and pin 3 is black. The WIS says 540 ohms +/-55 ohms. You can also measure the amplitude and frequency, but you would need an oscilliscope and the engine needs to be running (which doesn't make much sense)... Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK - some movement! Took the car to the local dealer who gave me a free diagnostic on the Tech2 - didn't even need to take the car of the trailer - very cool and thanks Lismore Saab. The TWICE unit is fried - I need another one, may try the bypass in the meantime but...does anyone have a TWICE with keys, with or without doorlocks for sale - part no. 50 42 189. Preferably outside of Europe as I have tracked them down cheaply there but can't get them shipped for at least a few weeks due to the issues with flying in that region. Let me know what you have guys.

Many Thanks.

Keith.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK - TECH2 says my TWICE is fried - anyone have one with the key and with or without door locks. Part no. 50 42 189. Prefer if it's not in Europe with the flight difficulties it may take a while to get here. Also - someone posted info on bypassing the unit with three jumpers but I can't for the life of me find it now - must need some more sleep, if you could post again it would be a huge bonus and get me rolling for the short term.

Cheers.

Keith.
 

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One of the posts in the link above referenced that alldata.com provided schematic diagrams. Maybe that would help, as I have only seen schematics for the '97 floating around the internet... Ron
 

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hey i think i got what you need, i got a key or two w, remotes the electronic interlock and the remote reciever(twice???) maybe in order to keep your lock you can swap remotes out of the keys and the reciver and electronic interlock around the ignition.
any ideas on that??
 
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