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Discussion Starter #41
Thanks Bob,
I am guessing that you suspect that all other vac lines are in the similar shape. But can this specific one can be the reason for not holding preassure and not starting?
 

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Discussion Starter #42
No, the vacuum hose needs to be there for properly operation, but won't affect starting.

You should test the regulator by jumping the fuel pump from the battery with the gauge hooked up and watching for steady pressure. Apply pressure and vacuum to the FPR vacuum fitting and watch the gauge for a corresponding change in fuel pressure.
Should I jump the pump from the fuse? And the reason is to bypass Ignition key?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Should I jump the pump from the fuse? And the reason is to bypass Ignition key?
Jvanabra,this morning I was trying to follow your instruction.First I checked that when I turn the key to ON pump is activated only for the short moment , is that correct? After that as I checked voltage, at the fuse, is dropping down to zero. So, I checked pump by activating it from fuse box (fuse 32), with the key in OFF position. Fuel pressure behaved exactly the same as from the ignition key, which means that as long as I kept voltage the presure was steady about 43 and when i was taking voltage off, was slowly dropping. The only difference was that cooling fan was not activated. Please advise
 

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That's positive, but to complete the test you need to add pressure/vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator with a vacuum pump. Although it's unlikely to work properly at rest and then fail with vacuum/pressure, that's the proper way to test the FPR.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
That's positive, but to complete the test you need to add pressure/vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator with a vacuum pump. Although it's unlikely to work properly at rest and then fail with vacuum/pressure, that's the proper way to test the FPR.
I was able to repeat this test with aplying my mouth instead of vaccum pomp an pressure dropped down a little, just to 40 or 39. Is that telling you something more??
 

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This is NOT fuel pressure
Guys I hardly make comments here but REALLY. can test my car now and for a fact my rail holds zero pressure. Actually I have no stop valve on return oron pressure line and car starts and drives just fine .
 

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Myredsaab get compression test done. You either have cracked piston broken piston rings or bad valve
 

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I was able to repeat this test with aplying my mouth instead of vaccum pomp an pressure dropped down a little, just to 40 or 39. Is that telling you something more??
Eh, it's better than nothing. :) Regardless, we know the pump runs when you try and start the car, and we know the regulator is enforcing fuel pressure. That's all you need to start the car.

Gotta look somewhere else, next. Ignition, injectors, mixture. I don't buy into the low compression scenario. Even a car with next to no compression will start, and you don't just suddenly lose four cylinders of compression after a short drive.
 

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Oh ok ..yes you can instantly lose compression..Why lose compression on all 4 cylinders could only be one.. Why can car start only on starter fluid..
The fact that myredsaab says only after short drive.
Maby he was pushing it!!!
I wasn't there.
Oil could be grease for all we know
 

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I'm sorry myredsaab
For being so blunt
We try help here always even know need help
Please don't take it personally.
 

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That means that my ECM/ECU is damaged? Can this be in some way checked? What is involved in reprogramming? And what should be done to marry?
I definietly have to educate myself before testing ECM. It looks that I didn't check maxi fuse2 as Mimmi advised, I just checked regular fuse#30. If I am correct it is located in engine bay, correct? Also what "+30" stands for? Is that connector? or relay?
I found out that on ECM I should check pin 23 (for power supply +30). What else should I check ?
I assume that I should do it with ignition key ON? I am studying Hyness Manual and WIS, but mostly I am counting on help of this forum. So, please guide me
Hello my name is Scott. I have an 04 9-3 arc. I feel your pain I've gone through exactly what you are. So I know how frustrated it. In my case I'm a certified mechanic so I was able to troubleshoot my issues. First thing I would do is find a mechanic you can trust who knows European cars. I played stupid with a couple shops and they both tried to screw me. Things you can check on your own. Check every fuse all of them. Check compression you can buy a gauge at any advanced auto parts for about 30 bucks. Check all fluids. Especially coolant. If you can get your scanner to work post all codes. Mine had injector fault 1234 and turbo waste gate codes. That pointed to a bad ECM. I got a used one on ebay for 150 and had it programmed to car. My email is [email protected] if I can help I will I've had 4 9-3s so Ive had slot of experience with them
 

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Thinking of some silly things here
Many the plugs are just fouled..
Helerious
Could be simple or devistating
Compression test is a MUST
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Eh, it's better than nothing. :) Regardless, we know the pump runs when you try and start the car, and we know the regulator is enforcing fuel pressure. That's all you need to start the car.

Gotta look somewhere else, next. Ignition, injectors, mixture. I don't buy into the low compression scenario. Even a car with next to no compression will start, and you don't just suddenly lose four cylinders of compression after a short drive.
Thanks jvanabra. I just put new vacum hose on FPR and everything is the same. Than I tried again to start with the starting fluid. I tried few times and failed.; Few times it looked like cuthing up but that's it. After that I got to spark plugs and all 4 were completely DRY!!!!!. So what would be my next step.
 

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As I mentioned before, I'd be looking at the injectors... put a noid light on one of the injectors and crank, make sure the light flashes. You will want to test each injector, although one bad injector likely wouldn't prevent the car from starting. Noid lights are cheap, and many auto parts store will rent them for free. You'll probably need a helper to crank the engine while you watch the light, although some noid lights come with a fiber optic tube so you can watch remotely.

Another, more dangerous test, would be to disconnect the DIC, remove the spark plugs, and try and crank the engine. You'd be looking for puffs of fuel from the spark plug holes. Obviously blasting atomized fuel into the air isn't great, but we have reason to think the injectors aren't firing.

This is generally circling back to what Mimmi mentioned about a bad ECM. You most likely have a CPS signal because the fuel pump is running, but that also means the injectors should be pulsing. Since the spark plugs are dry, there's reason to think the injectors aren't pulsing. We also have a fan than runs spontaneously, and an OBD2 tool that can't talk to the ECM. Lots of things to point at a failed ECM, but given how involved it is in replacing one, I'd personally want to rule everything else out that I could, first.

You might consider looking at the Tech 2 location thread on the Tech 2 board and see if there is someone in your area who'd be willing to come by and plug in a Tech 2, see if that yields any useful info.
 

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Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
Thanks
All this is new for me. I will rent NOID tester tomorrow. As I understand they are different for different brands . Should I use one for GM or Bosh? Or any other one?
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Two more questions. This NOID test is to check if the signals from ECM are coming to injectors? Correct? And what if the signals are coming? And next question where should I looka for TECH 2 Board?
 
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