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If all other possibilities ruled out, it is only remaining cause.
For marrying you need TECH2
 

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Discussion Starter #22
WIS > Electrical Systems > Charging System > Zoom in gets you this:
View attachment 277086


Also,if you go into the WIS > Wiring Harness> Four headed arrow tool AKA "Component Location" and double click on the fuse box listing at the top > you will see each circuit id'd for the source voltage. It's also on each individual wiring diagram above the fuse feeds for that circuit.
Thanks Bob,
I will try to explore it
 

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Discussion Starter #23
If all other possibilities ruled out, it is only remaining cause.
For marrying you need TECH2
So that means that I would have to buy new and than tow the car to some mechanic who would now what to do and this would maybe solve the problem or maybe not,. Am I correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Did you use a fuel pressure tester or just check spray on the schrader valve ?
Just pressed the shrader valve. But as I said than car was running for a half an hour or so. I assumed that this good evidence for the sufficient fuel supply?
 

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Along the lines of dho's thinking, I would be taking a very detailed approach to this troubleshooting. I would have a fuel pressure tester on the rail, a noid light on an injector, and probably a second test light on the DIC connector to show coil pulses. When it's not starting, either one of these three things isn't happening OR they aren't happening to the right degree. Eliminating the possibility that one is completely not working means you can move on to details.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Along the lines of dho's thinking, I would be taking a very detailed approach to this troubleshooting. I would have a fuel pressure tester on the rail, a noid light on an injector, and probably a second test light on the DIC connector to show coil pulses. When it's not starting, either one of these three things isn't happening OR they aren't happening to the right degree. Eliminating the possibility that one is completely not working means you can move on to details.
I will test fuel pressure with the tester on the shrader valve tomorrow. The other tests, I am afraid are above my capacity.
By the way my fuel pump has less than 20k life although it took us more than 4 years.
What about this fan which is on every time when I crank the engine ? What could be the reason for that ?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Can this be the clue to explain not starting? I am almost sure that it started at the same time
 

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Anything is possible, which is why it's important to go through systems thoroughly to start eliminating variables.
 

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So that means that I would have to buy new and than tow the car to some mechanic who would now what to do and this would maybe solve the problem or maybe not,. Am I correct?
Perhaps... you can also buy a Chinese Tech II for about $300 and have it in a few days. Then you could not only match a new ECU but potentially avoid the issue entirely by checking and reprogramming modules as jvan suggested. You could also buy an ECU from a tuner who could put your immobilizer code in and give you a plug-n-play ECU but that's going to cost almost as much as just buying a Tech II with none of the other benefits to owning that.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Today I rented fuel pressure tester and here is what happened:
1 . at the first attempt to start engine kranked and started and than died again.
2 At the next kranking every time tester was jumping to about 43-44 psi and when I stopped kranking (releasing key ) was not holding preasure and slowly going down to zero. I would expect tester to hold til I manually released it.
Also, tachometer was not moving at all (don't know if it should) and fan was on from the first kranking.
Maybe this will bring some light to the problem. Thanks in advance for any comment
 

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There are check valves at the tank and the fuel pressure regulator on the rail which should hold pressure for at least a few minutes and ideally for many hours. If pressure dropped off immediately after cranking, it suggests one of those two things isn't functional. But, you know the pump is running when you crank, which eliminates the CPS from the mix as a likely culprit. Next you need to determine whether the plugs are firing and the injectors are pulsing.
 

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To add to above, if the pressure drops off immediately the system may not maintain pressure in order to actually run/fire, the FPR is very easy to access and change plus it's cheap, the check valve in the tank can be a pain to swap though.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Thanks a lot ,
How I can check it? As I wrote before I was once able to start the engine with stating fluid and than car run for about 30' before I killed it. So for me it tells that a I have sparks? And today it started on its own except that it died immediately.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Thanks Bob, I just did it. The pressure jumped immediately to about 43 than gradually was going down. After 60 seconds I tried to start but it was just cranking as before
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I was just exploring access to FPR and discovered that the vacuum hose to the regulator completely deteriorated. Could that be the cause for not starting and not holding pressure? If yes, I can call myself the most lucky person on this forum.
It is to late to do it today but tomorrow I will replace it and will see,
 

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No, the vacuum hose needs to be there for properly operation, but won't affect starting.

You should test the regulator by jumping the fuel pump from the battery with the gauge hooked up and watching for steady pressure. Apply pressure and vacuum to the FPR vacuum fitting and watch the gauge for a corresponding change in fuel pressure.
 

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If that's true, change all the 4mm vac lines. You need 10' of 4mm - 5/32 hose. Cut them off the fittings carefully.
 
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