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Discussion Starter #1
MY 201 SAAB 9-3 is not starting any more. I finished short drive parked the car and noticed that fan was still working. Waited a little while and it still could hear the fan. Locked the car remotely and after a moment fan stopped working. Temperature outside was maybe above 40 F the short run was maybe 3.5 miles and mostly downhill so all this was rather strange. Got back to the car and wanted to check if my OBDII will tell me something. Hooked my scanner and after a while got error linking to the vehicle. Never got anything like this before so checked if it is well connected and tried again. Again after all this routine initial messages I got linking error. Then tried to start the car, starter cranked nicely but that it. after about 1hr I tried the same and the same results. I think that I heard the pomp working (with the help of my wife) and later checked the presume on the fuel rail valve. There was pressure. I also noticed that when was turning ignition, cooling fan started working even if the engine was cold. The only way to stop it was to lock the car.
Please any hint what to do next will be appreciated.
p.s I checked the scanner with the other car and is working well.
 

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Check the engine ground. There's one to the tranny and a line on the end of the tranny to the chassis. Make sure they are OK. Check the ground by the battery.
 

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My 6 cents, (inflation) would be that your ignition switch under the keyset is going bad, are you having any other weird issues. the tabs break off and strange things go on, most everything runs through the harness attached to the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What I noticed recently is, that when turning key from OFF position when I push the key down I can not turn it, it is kind of locked. I didn't happen before. If i don't press it down there is no problem. I was even about starting the new threat with question about it and specifically what type of grease should I use, if any
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
This morning i did few things. Was able to push the car to my backyard. I tried to start it again with extra ground cable. Than i released the black rigid input tube from throttle body and sprayed some starting fluid. After short hesitation engine started. I let it idle for about half an hour. Than I turn it off. With the key off fan was still ruining. Outside temp 55 F and engine definitely not overheated, if you believe in my gauges. I tried to start again and still nothing, just cranking and fan running. I tried to scan with OBDII and again was not able to link to the vehicle. At least I know that I have spark and fuel.
But have no idea what to do next?
If you have any suggestions please help
 

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You have erased trionic7. When there is no sw, fan runs.
Typically that happens when battery voltage drops or +30 voltage missing.
Check maxifuse 2 and fuse 28 in engine fuse box.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You have erased trionic7. When there is no sw, fan runs.
Typically that happens when battery voltage drops or +30 voltage missing.
Check maxifuse 2 and fuse 28 in engine fuse box.
Thanks Mimmi,
I just checked them both and they are good..
What is "+30 voltage missing" ?
 

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+30 voltage is uninterrupted battery voltage (always ON).
 

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You probably wanna get access to the ECM and make sure battery voltage is present at the connector. Low battery voltage could explain the whole thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
You probably wanna get access to the ECM and make sure battery voltage is present at the connector. Low battery voltage could explain the whole thing.
Thanks,
It looks like new challenging and expensive experience for me. Never worked with ECM. Do I have to remove glove compartment in my 2001 9-3? Also what specifically should I look for? And again any knowledge experience or insight how and what for will be very appreciated.
 

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Has this car actually run before? ,you said you got it running on starter fluid, which means cps and DIC are working, if you got it running on the starter fluid it's entirely possible that the fuel pump isn't working as it should, you may hear it run but it may not be building any pressure to the rail or very weak pressure hence getting it running on starter fluid. you can check pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Has this car actually run before? ,you said you got it running on starter fluid, which means cps and DIC are working, if you got it running on the starter fluid it's entirely possible that the fuel pump isn't working as it should, you may hear it run but it may not be building any pressure to the rail or very weak pressure hence getting it running on starter fluid. you can check pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail.
Thanks for responding.
Before my car run beautifully. As I wrote in my initial post , what caught my attention was noise of fun working after I shut down the engine, after relatively short run and low temperature outside. At that time i checked if the preasure is bulding up at the fuel rail valve. And I had nice spray. So concluded that there is good fuel supply. Also after starting with starting fluid I was running engine for about 30' before killing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I definietly have to educate myself before testing ECM. It looks that I didn't check maxi fuse2 as Mimmi advised, I just checked regular fuse#30. If I am correct it is located in engine bay, correct? Also what "+30" stands for? Is that connector? or relay?
I found out that on ECM I should check pin 23 (for power supply +30). What else should I check ?
I assume that I should do it with ignition key ON? I am studying Hyness Manual and WIS, but mostly I am counting on help of this forum. So, please guide me
 

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+30 is one of the power lines. There's also +54, +X, etc. I have no idea of the derivation of those line names. Some are ignition switched, others battery, others only powered during start, etc.

There's a chart in the WIS somewhere. If I find it later I'll post a pointer.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Today I cheked all maxi fuse 2 and all other maxi fuses in engine compartment. They were all in good shape. Then I got to ECM. I just took out some nut on the right side and was able to pull out the carpet. Took out connector and checked as follow: pin 25, 47,67 - good grounds, resistance practically zero. Pin #23 voltage 13.64, than I put ignition key "ON" and pin #43 voltage 12.31. Had a charger hooked up to the battery.
So what should I check next? Please advise
 

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WIS > Electrical Systems > Charging System > Zoom in gets you this:
277086



Also,if you go into the WIS > Wiring Harness> Four headed arrow tool AKA "Component Location" and double click on the fuse box listing at the top > you will see each circuit id'd for the source voltage. It's also on each individual wiring diagram above the fuse feeds for that circuit.
 

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I'll try to reprogram ECU or try with another one. Remember that you need marry new ECU to car.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'll try to reprogram ECU or try with another one. Remember that you need marry new ECU to car.
That means that my ECM/ECU is damaged? Can this be in some way checked? What is involved in reprogramming? And what should be done to marry?
 
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