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Discussion Starter #1
2006 9-3 Aero 6sp manual transmission - no start intermittent, typically when hot. If I open the hood and let it sit for 10 minutes to 45+ it will cool down and start as normal.

In all of the searching that I have done to try and diagnosis this the primary culprit is the Neutral Safety Switch, but that appears to be only for automatic transmissions. What would cause the same behavior on a manual trans?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have had a few instances of the Stability Control failure warning.
I put a BlueDriver OBD2 unit on the car and got the following codes.
U0212 - lost comm. w/ steering column control
U2142 - lost comm. w/ chassis constrol
U2143 - lost comm. w/ steering control
U2139 - lost comm. w/ body control
U2100 - CAN bus comm. malfunction
B3057 - No security code programmed (PTO, HMInter, Amp, parking brake)
P0463 - fuel level sensor (this is the fuel sending unit)
P0300 Random multiple cylinder misfire
P0303, 304, 305, 306

A new clutch was installed in Feb. 2019. I have to double check what parts were replaced while it was out and easier to access.

There is some oil coverage in the lower engine bay. I'm wondering if that could be affecting the Antilock Braking Sensor or the Crank Position Sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've found a couple of videos that show the crankshaft position sensor on the 4cyl, but none yet on the 6cyl.
The ABS module, is that the wheel speed sensor, a sub computer, or some other part of the system?
I'm looking around to see what test I can run to verify a bad part. Parts guessing and swapping is not efficient enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The CPS was not replaced in 2019. I have felt a slightly rough idle at times, mostly just an intermittent hiccup in an otherwise smooth idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Found this thread for the location.
Sounds horrible.
 

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Try this test involving bypassing the ABS module. If the car starts when the ABS is bypassed, don’t assume the module is bad. Instead inspect the female sockets inside the connector, specifically the 4 closest to the firewall. Use a pick to close them up to improve the connection. If that doesn’t help then the ABS may be in need of service or replacement.




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Discussion Starter #9
AeroJon and Laminator, thank you for the info. I was able to run the double jumper test today and found that the ABS is the issue. I found a video on pulling out the ABS module and resoldering the pins.
Mimmi, after the ABS is repaired and stable I'll wait to see if the misfire codes remain before I tackle the CPS.
 

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Don’t jump to the conclusion that the ABS is bad. I just helped a guy who went through this and it turned out to be the female connectors in the harness had stretched so they weren’t making good contact. He poked at them to bend them closed more and that solved the problem.


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I'm in favor of starting with the least invasive step. I'll give it a try this afternoon and see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update: drove it for a few months with the intermittent no-start and used a pair of paper clips to jump start the ABS module. Then it quit starting on its own altogether and would only start with module jump. That got old quickly.
I finally got around to pulling the module out. What A Pain In The ****. The only video on YT is done on a RH drive model, super easy. LH drive, not so much.
You need stubby socket torx T20, 8 mm 12 point box wrench. You have to pull the battery and battery box out. Its a mess.
With the smart phone camera on 4X zoom I could see 4 broken solder joints. I think I did ok redoing those. Putting it all back in was a little easier than getting it out. And - Nothing. Still has to be jumped.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I decided to run another scan all codes with my BlueDriver. All the usual suspects appeared. What if the codes need to be cleared to let the system reset? That solved it.
For me the combination was A) remove the ABS Module and repair the broken solder joints, then reinstall, B) clear all of the codes.
One of my symptoms was all guages stopped working.
Thanks for the help. I hope this is useful to someone else.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I wish it was that easy.
When I tried to start it this morning, all the codes were back and it had to be ABS jumped again. All guages dead.
Now I am having A LOT of trouble connecting to the ECU to read the codes. The OBD2 adapters will connect to the software, but will not connect to the car's ECU. Can't read or clear. I'm stuck for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I pulled the connector off of the ABS module, put in the two jumpers and tried to connect to the OBD2 & ECU. It worked. I read all of the codes. Cleared all of the codes. Then I removed the jumpers and put the connecter back onto the ABS. It would not start and the connection to the ECU was immediately broken.
I think this means that the ABS module is fried.
Agree or disagree?
 

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Bad ABS, or bad connection to it. Pull connectors and look at pins carefully.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Odd bit. From a stop, right turn with hard acceleration, it caused the tach, gas, temp, turbo gauges to start working. Speedo and odometer remained unresponsive.
 

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You need a tech2 to diagnose.
 

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I had a similar thing happen, although I did not bypass the module I did end up finding a broken wire in the loom between the fusebox and the module. I was going to bypass it but fortunately had another loom and it runs fine after swapping it out.

There's some info on the WIS for checking the wiring, mostly just pinouts, but it also mentions wiggling the loom and seeing what happens, I'd Ideally think they'd hook up a meter or scope to that, but it's gm design so who knows.

If you're able to stick a multimeter or oscilloscope between the connections for the wires I'd watch it to see if they change during movement while a good connection is maintained on the connectors, this is normally how I find broken wires.

A TII it can possibly pull some limited codes, but if the connection is interrupted anything that would be on that circuit won't respond. I hate to say it, but this does possibly sound like the ABS model was heat cycling and working then, but wiring isn't a strong part on these cars either.
 
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