SaabCentral Forums banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
507 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I took the car for a spin the other day in anticipation of selling it. I did a few errands and stopped for gas. After filling up, I turned the key and got nothing. No cranking or clicking, just dash lights and a fuel pump hum. I have power at the alt. and the starter but when turning the key to start, I don't get power at the signal wire(yellow wire on the starter solenoid). Fuses are good as well.

I don't have a wiring diagram so I'm limited in my wire tracing and troubleshooting. Before I replace the starter without knowing for sure that is the issue I was hoping for some input from you guys.

It will bump start and run but the other day the CEL came on and stayed on so I'm thinking it may be the Crankshaft position sensor.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
257 Posts
Well, working back from the starter solenoid yellow wire, it hits the starter relay, which is fed from #2 the 60A maxi-fuse. The relay is controlled by the ignition switch, which runs through passenger cabin fusebox no.36. From there it may or may not (depending upon installed options and transmission) pass through the alarm/immobiliser, sensonic control module, and/or AT inhibitor switch before inputting to the starter relay.

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,143 Posts
CPS bad would make crank but no start. it tells the ECU that the engine is cranking, and what point in the stroke the crank is at so it knows when to fire the injectors and spark plugs. if you are not getting power to the wire attached to the starter solenoid, it could be numerous things. manual cars have a switch by the clutch pedal that must release to allow cranking. auto cars have the prnd switch or neutral safety switch requiring the car be in either neutral or park to crank. another issue these cars seem to have is the ignition switch, not the key tumbler itself but the switch located on the bottom of it, disassembly of the center console is requires to gain access to it. you can also try to jump the starter solenoid to the battery (do so at your own risk) by removing the small wire from the starter solenoid and replacing it with a long wire to connect directly to the positive battery terminal. jumping the terminal from under the car is dangerous, but can be done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
If you have an auto, this sounds like classic NSS failure. If this happens again, try pooring water on it (generally, just poor some water behind the battery), and see if it starts then. If so, it's the NSS. I have the same problem. The most economical solution is to wire in a bypass (there is a thread about that). It means that the starter will engage with the trans in positions other than Park or Nuetral, but that really doesn't bother me. Otherwise, you can remove, disassemble, clean and regrease the switch (not expensive if you DIY, but labor intensive. Or replace it (not a cheap part, if you can even find one these days).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
507 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Pontius: I can bump start the car but I was lead to believe that you wouldn't get dash power(which I have) with a bad ignition switch.

AZR: Thanks for the info. I went ahead and bought a new CPS for the hell of it along with some other unrelated items. I will check the switch on the pedals.

Nova: The car is equipped with a manual transmission.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
507 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I just replaced the CPS and the CEL is now gone. One problem down!

I also found the cruise control switch on the clutch pedal was broken so I replaced that as well. The car still will not start though. When I turn the key, I can hear the starter relay clicking under the dash so that is good and I'm assuming the ignition switch should be good because of that. The maxi fuse under the hood is intact as well. All the grounds(earths) are good. I'm stumped.
I guess I'm going to pull the starter and have it tested.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,583 Posts
Do the full battery/charging system service.
;oops:if all that is needed is a new battery;oops:
...or alternator brushes....
If no power to the yellow, bridge the NSS...If this works and she now starts.....then;ol;
If still no power, to the yellow, and the relay is good (easy to test) then its the switch...a known problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
507 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It turned out to be the 170k mile starter.
I couldn't believe that it had gone bad as I never had to replace one in any of 250k to 350k mile C900! It never showed any sign of weakness, just gave up the ghost in the summer heat.
In the words of the parts tester, "this thang is ver-ry frozen."

Thanks for the help, guys;ol;
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top