SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You may well consider me foolish but Ive dispensed with the entire APC system including dodgy knock sensor and gone with me new fav gadget the wideband afr guage . Will soon install an EGT gauge along with 3 inch DP . Car already has FMIC 3 bar FPR and redtop injectors and open air intake in the cold area in front of the wheel and a standard lh2.2 ecu . Oh and one of those frowned on MBCs set to approx 12 lbs Anything I may have missed as far as making reasonable power with an emphasis on retaining good everyday reliability?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,014 Posts
Anything I may have missed as far as making reasonable power with an emphasis on retaining good everyday reliability?
Yes, remove the redtop injectors and replace them with the standard injectors. You will be running pig rich and your car will be very thirsty for petrol with larger injectors not tuned to your ECU.:nono;
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Well the original injectors where causing it to run very lean and like a complete spaz! . So the red tops may be masking a weak fuel pump? It oddly is running pretty well at except at WOT 10.3 AFR and cold start . The test will be next time I fill up ! Id better test the fuel pump pressure I suppose .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
I believe that disabling the apc is a dangerous move on your part, especially if you plan to tune your engine. Without the apc, your engine is a lot more susceptible to knocking, and other further damage caused by it. The APC system in a saab, in my opinion is a vital tool any classic 900 owner needs if they plan on increasing power production without detrimental effects.

I've seen plenty volvo owners incorporate an apc into their cars when tuning it, along with the knock sensor and knock led to keep a careful eye on the status of their engine.

next upgrade(s) though, would probably be a fuel chip, uprated turbo, clutch to handle the power, and if you're so inclined, new camshafts, other internal engine upgrades, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Well for now Im taking my chances . Untill the t5 conversion is done so if that means sitting behind slower traffic on long hills so be it. The car is running the best it ever and is settling down to 13.5-14.0 afr when cruising so something must be right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Have just done the 300 ohm orange wire on the amm mod and afrs are better. Was getting 10 litre/100km and expecting a bit better now Just the cold start afr to consider . Might have to put up with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Have just done the 300 ohm orange wire on the amm mod and afrs are better. Was getting 10 litre/100km and expecting a bit better now Just the cold start afr to consider . Might have to put up with it.
Why do people choose to use the orange wire mod? is this any different than adjusting the resistance screw on the air mass meter?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Yes it extends the adjustability when using redtop injectors and 3 bar fpr to bring afr back to a more resonable range so no more 9.8 wot stuff more like 11.00 - 16.00 and settling to 14.7 at idle which is pretty good from my understanding though Im now having trouble with cold start leaning as it fools the ecu into thinking the engine is hot.Guess you cant do a 50c mod and expect it to be perfect! Im thinking of being able to switch out the resistor for cold starting , just a germ of an idea at the moment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,102 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Ive got it running pretty well now and have removed the manual boost controller to preserve the gearbox. Now only 8-10 lbs boost but feels like considerably more so obviously the mods have made a quite a difference .Am now going to have another go at getting the knock led working.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top