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Have you replaced the temperature sensor that's on the intake manifold? It's part of Trionic's fuel system, and is used to change the air/fuel ratio depending on the engine's temperature. I've had the sensor fail twice on me, and both times it's made the car run so poorly I barely got it home. It's cheap, and strangely enough is the same sensor that's in the side of the head on a 9-3 for the temperature gauge.
 

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'96 SAAB NG900 SE (R.I.P.), '99 SAAB 9-3
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Discussion Starter #102
Have you replaced the temperature sensor that's on the intake manifold? It's part of Trionic's fuel system, and is used to change the air/fuel ratio depending on the engine's temperature. I've had the sensor fail twice on me, and both times it's made the car run so poorly I barely got it home. It's cheap, and strangely enough is the same sensor that's in the side of the head on a 9-3 for the temperature gauge.
I can swap in the sensor from my NG900 when i get home to test it out.
But before i do that i'll also check what the temp reading is through OBD2. Because if i see a reasonable reading then there's not much need to fiddle around with it.
 

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'96 SAAB NG900 SE (R.I.P.), '99 SAAB 9-3
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Discussion Starter #103
Bought a new FPR but the issue remained exactly the same, changed the air temp sensor and still no improvement.
Took it out for a ride and gave it the beans and now it's all fine, but if i restart the engine it goes lean again so i'm a little puzzled.
Lean only at idle, so you'd think it's to save fuel, but +25% short term fuel trim suggests otherwise, after a drive it idles fine and no longer comes close to stalling out when revs fall to idle after throttle input.
Also did some testing and came to the conclusion that all T5 LPT's come with the hot map in them already.
I know this because at full throttle the boost settles at 12 PSI which is about 0.83 bar.
Also the boost climbs rapidly to 12PSI but then stays rock solid at that value so i know the boost pressure regulator solenoid works, also i can hear it buzzing the same way it did on my NG900.
I'll go rip the rest of the crap body filler off and will prime the surface while the weather is still ok.
After that i'll go looking for the sander i had somewhere because sanding filler by hand is annoying and gets tiresome quick.
 

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Also did some testing and came to the conclusion that all T5 LPT's come with the hot map in them already.
I know this because at full throttle the boost settles at 12 PSI which is about 0.83 bar.
I won't argue with your tests, but I think the assumption is wrong. An LPT would need to have a map that capped it or it would not be an LPT - it would just run to 12psi, BPV or not. I think it's more likely someone swapped the ECU in that car before you got it.

FWIW, that is around the right number for a 185HP car. The HOT car would actually be closer to 15 psi and 205HP.
 

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It's easy to swap out the ECU on a T5, since no marrying procedure is required. It's plug and play, unlike T7 cars.
 

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'96 SAAB NG900 SE (R.I.P.), '99 SAAB 9-3
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Discussion Starter #106
I won't argue with your tests, but I think the assumption is wrong. An LPT would need to have a map that capped it or it would not be an LPT - it would just run to 12psi, BPV or not. I think it's more likely someone swapped the ECU in that car before you got it.

FWIW, that is around the right number for a 185HP car. The HOT car would actually be closer to 15 psi and 205HP.
The ECU had no way to control the turbo pressure, because the turbo was connected directly to the waste gate.
In that case even if the ECU had the hot map it would never use the "hot" part because it never gets over 0.4 bar.
So to me it makes perfect sense that SAAB would put the same ECU with the same maps in LPT an FPT cars and just cap LTP's at 0.4 bar leaving the hot part of the map unused.


Anyways, the wind carried some very nasty clouds over so i didn't even bother with the filler removal, i only sprayed primer on the bare metal areas, where i couldn't previously because it was raining.

Ps: by "hot" map i meant the FPT 185hp map, my bad.
 

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'96 SAAB NG900 SE (R.I.P.), '99 SAAB 9-3
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Discussion Starter #107
IMG_20200316_121144.jpg
Got some time to work on my car.
IMG_20200316_145741.jpg
Came out allright, feel free to tell me what you think.
Working in a garage is much nicer, no more waiting for the wind to die down or for the clouds to clear.
 

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'96 SAAB NG900 SE (R.I.P.), '99 SAAB 9-3
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Discussion Starter #110
Well i'm all out paint.
Managed to get three layers.
Concentrated a bit more on the sharp contours, little too much actually because i got a paint run but it's very minor and will sand out i think.
Also i hope it's the correct color, looks nice.
What do you guys think?
272026
 

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'96 SAAB NG900 SE (R.I.P.), '99 SAAB 9-3
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Discussion Starter #112 (Edited)
The paint darkened up quite a bit as it dried.
After the paint hardens i'll finally be able to wash and polish this car.
IMG_20200317_170306.jpg
Around the wheel arch where the weld was i wanted to make the contour nice and sharp but over did it a little.
Despite that and a couple other minor details i think this came out pretty well for a first try.

Ps: you can see other unpainted bits but those will be for a later date. For now i wanted to focus on the welded area.
 

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'96 SAAB NG900 SE (R.I.P.), '99 SAAB 9-3
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Discussion Starter #113
Pulled the exhaust manifold off today and with the help of my MIG welder got the broken stud out.
Also found out why my turbo was overboosting and why the boost was so lazy.
Turns out the waste gate got stuck slightly open. Took alot of prying but i got it to move eventually and now the boost is fine.
Also the compressor housing is clocked wrong and the nuts were mixed around so i'm pretty sure the turbo has been out. The shaft felt pretty tight so i assume it was to rebuild it. This wrong clocking made it impossible to pull the waste gate actuator arm off because it gets caught on the groove for the C clip, which is missing in this turbo.
Made two new exhaust studs, one for the broken stud and another because one stud had chewed up threads.
Tightened the exhaust manifold up and guess what? Massive exhaust leak on the middle part of the exhaust manifold where the cylinder 2 and 3 runners bolt up.
I tried tightening the nuts more, felt quite dangerous tightening even, but the leak is still there. Cylinder 1 and 4 runers are fine and i didn't tighten them nearly as much.
I guess i'll have to pull the manifold again, what a pain.
I had pulled the battery cable off while i was welding and when i took the car for a spin it ran so lean the engine stalled at least five times.
After some "pedal to the metal" treatment it seems to be running fine again, so it looks like an inherent issue in the ECU.
This lean burn only seems to happen after i pull the battery cable.
And lastly, when pulling the battery cable i thought "great now my false CE error will clear". Nope, i still get 7 dings whenever i start my car.
I might swap in my NG900 ECU but it has the mega hot 264 hp TD04 specific map in it so i'm trying to stay away from that if possible.
 

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'96 SAAB NG900 SE (R.I.P.), '99 SAAB 9-3
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Discussion Starter #114
Here's my trophy, an m10 nut welded to a broken stud.
272172

Also i noticed that the steering wheel on the 9-3 has ribs in the 3/9 o'clock positions and i absolutely hate them.
Fortunately the steering wheel in the 900 is in much better condition and has no ribs. :)
 

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Steering wheel won't swap to the 9-3 unless the NG900 is a 1998... or you want to swap the column. I know some guys have gone the other way NG900 column updated to 9-3, so I assume you can go back. But, there may be missing features on the NG900 column.

The ECU would normally need some "adaption" runs when the battery is disconnected. But, the car usually runs fairly well when it's hooked up - it just might lack MPG, or power, etc. Your change sounds much more severe.
 

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'96 SAAB NG900 SE (R.I.P.), '99 SAAB 9-3
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Discussion Starter #116
The ECU would normally need some "adaption" runs when the battery is disconnected. But, the car usually runs fairly well when it's hooked up - it just might lack MPG, or power, etc. Your change sounds much more severe.
My NG900 used to run fine even after i had the battery unhooked so this 9-3 really surprised me by how poorly it runs after i unhook the battery.
But after i floor it enough the fuel trims settle at +5% and it runs fine-ish except that it uses more fuel than my NG900 did.
 

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'96 SAAB NG900 SE (R.I.P.), '99 SAAB 9-3
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Discussion Starter #117
While pulling my ng900 apart i decided to swap the ECU's and guess what? It still runs like crap after the battery has been disconnected.
While i was at it i also swapped over the MAP sensor as well and got some positive change, but not enough, the engine still stumbles.
While i was under the hood i noticed an unused connector and upon a closer inspection it looks like the cruise control module plug.
272590

So the cruise install should be pretty straight forward.
Also the climate control spazzed out for a few minutes but seems to have come good.
272591

The dark spot is just a blown bulb.
272592

It came good after a couple minutes.
 

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'96 SAAB NG900 SE (R.I.P.), '99 SAAB 9-3
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Discussion Starter #118
Installed the cruise module with the pedal switches as well as the left stalk with the cruise control switches and the cruise control still doesn't work.
WIS says the wiring should be correct, but i get no response from the cruise control.
I don't think there are any bulbs in the gauge cluster for the cruise control but even without those i know how to use the cruise, i mean i used it all the time on my NG900.
Unless the cruise control module refuses to work without those bulbs?
Any suggestions?
 

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'96 SAAB NG900 SE (R.I.P.), '99 SAAB 9-3
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Discussion Starter #119
Got the cruise to work, not sure what i did to make it work tho.
Did the diagnostic thing where you start the car with the cruise switch on and the cruise module revved my engine to redline and then let it idle right after.
After this it works fine. I also routed the cruise bulb wire from the cruise plug inside the car and hooked it to a bulb to confirm that it's working and it does light up meaning that as i suspected there is no bulb in the gauge cluster.
DMM also shows open circuit on the bulb wire.
Taking the gauge cluster AFAIK is a pain in the unmentionables so i might just route the bulb wire to the "fasten seatbelts" bulb.
 

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The first time I did a cluster remove/re-install it was a 4 hour job. That included time to find all the screws (challenging), figure out why the radio would not pull all the way out (also challenging) and fix one of the vents that came apart (the most challenging part). I could do one now in and out in an hour with a long coffee break included. Judge from there.

Imagine that if you got creative you could figure out how to have an indicator that the cruise was actually engaged on a T5 and wire that to a bulb. The "Cruise is turned on/available" light is essentially useless. Knowing it was set and regulating the car would be a feature. I can't do that on a T7... it's all internal to the ECU.
 
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