Having researched this myself I found a lot of threads with partial information that were not super clear. Here is my bypass for the dash light illumination rheostat that are notorious for going bad. Simple “fix” that at least keeps the lights on. One pin I wasn’t able to trace, but I’m thinking it’s the input from the light sensor on the dashboard computer, as this is supposed to dim the rheostat automatically when ambient light is high. (Guesstimation from the info I was able to find)
Vehicle specifics are 98 900s. Wouldn’t be all that surprised if different years differ, as info I found on pin numbers wasn’t correct for my vehicle. Best method in my approximation was using a multimeter to find power, and checking resistances to ground. Once I found the pins I suspected as being to the bulbs I used a 2 amp fuse in a holder with probes on each end to jump from 12volt to the circuits. The fuse will pop very quickly if/when you short to ground- and you shouldn’t have to worry about the fuses in your fuse box as this will be the weak link.
End result is lights on permanent when vehicle is powered on but that beats a blank(literally)
Rheostat is now acting as a fancy plug for the hole in the dash but that’s just a dirty secret I can keep to myself.
Vehicle specifics are 98 900s. Wouldn’t be all that surprised if different years differ, as info I found on pin numbers wasn’t correct for my vehicle. Best method in my approximation was using a multimeter to find power, and checking resistances to ground. Once I found the pins I suspected as being to the bulbs I used a 2 amp fuse in a holder with probes on each end to jump from 12volt to the circuits. The fuse will pop very quickly if/when you short to ground- and you shouldn’t have to worry about the fuses in your fuse box as this will be the weak link.
End result is lights on permanent when vehicle is powered on but that beats a blank(literally)
Rheostat is now acting as a fancy plug for the hole in the dash but that’s just a dirty secret I can keep to myself.