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Discussion Starter #1
Good day all,

2011 9-5 Turbo6.
On start, the engine started misfiring on cylinder 3, threw the proper code for it. However, what I took to maybe be just bad spark plugs and coils (they're original, and I haven't had the intake manifold off the engine yet to check them out) may be more. I had a guy test his scan tool a while back, and he sent me a screenshot with these codes in it:

  • P1572 Brake Pedal Switch Circuit Malfunction (Passive/Sporadic)
  • P1031 Injector 3 Low Output (Passive/Sporadic)
  • P1023 Fuel Pressure Control Valve Short To Ground (Passive/Sporadic)
  • P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire (Passive/Sporadic)
When the guy used his scanner somehow it thought the car was a Porsche, so I didn't give credence to what codes were pulled, until now that I've correlated the actual P codes to the SAAB model specific codes. I am.... concerned it could be a wiring issue? Hopefully not injectors or any of the fuel system itself at all really :ROFLMAO:

As always, I thank you for your advice. Just trying to keep this running long enough to pay it down and sell it.

Happy New Year,
Chris
 

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Anytime you start getting a bunch of weird, unrelated, codes on NG 9-5’s, I always start with the battery/terminals/grounds. These cars go positively wacky if those 3 items aren’t fresh... how are yours?
 

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Battery was relatively fresh, but hasn't been tested at AutoPlace yet. I have a 120v charger that has an idiot light, is that good enough for this purpose regarding the battery?

As far as terminals and grounds, I understand the battery terminals, but what grounds? The plastic box of wiring harness that fits over the battery, with all the other heavy-ish gauge cables terminating in compression bolt fittings? I have not touched that at all. If requiring cleaning, what would you advise?
 

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WIS lists the major ground points. Most auto parts stores now can do an in-depth battery test so it might be worth the aggravation to make sure it’s good.
 
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WIS lists the major ground points. Most auto parts stores now can do an in-depth battery test so it might be worth the aggravation to make sure it’s good.
For the grounds and terminals any recommended cleaning methods? I’ll run the battery up to auto store and pick up any suggested cleaning agents. Have wire brushes and dielectric grease but no electronics cleaning spray.
 

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For the grounds and terminals any recommended cleaning methods? I’ll run the battery up to auto store and pick up any suggested cleaning agents. Have wire brushes and dielectric grease but no electronics cleaning spray.
Basic wire brush or very fine sandpaper works. Clean them off good when done and after the connections are made, put a thin layer of dielectric grease over it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Do you mean the grounds at the terminals attached to the battery box? The WIS lists over 40 ground points most of which are inside the body, attached to things like the seat mounts and pillars and body (as you'd expect).

Edited - the grounds attached to all the body points under the hood are the ones you mean I hope, but I’m not sure which based on the WIS. I’ll keep digging.
 

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Significantly, the actual installed WIS on my computer identifies all the ground locations properly, but the online WIS gives only answers for the pre-2010 models no matter what I can find. Looks like this will be quite the chore, as many of the grounds are on the side of the block facing the firewall 😫
 

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Battery checked out ok but in need of a charge....... I’m going to hook the battery tomorrow after it charges overnight but I’m not holding my breath on that. I’ll start tackling the grounds tomorrow, and if that doesn’t improve things then I’ll swap out the coils and spark plugs. If fixing the grounds helps then I’ll return the coils, they were a penny and I could spend the moolah on other things 🤞🏼
 

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Battery checked out ok but in need of a charge....... I’m going to hook the battery tomorrow after it charges overnight but I’m not holding my breath on that. I’ll start tackling the grounds tomorrow, and if that doesn’t improve things then I’ll swap out the coils and spark plugs. If fixing the grounds helps then I’ll return the coils, they were a penny and I could spend the moolah on other things 🤞🏼
You should be able to just check out a couple of the main grounds in the engine bay and that should give you a good idea if they’re seeing corrosion or not. Wouldn’t hurt to check the alternator connection too (be sure to disconnect the battery before messing with that).
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
You should be able to just check out a couple of the main grounds in the engine bay and that should give you a good idea if they’re seeing corrosion or not. Wouldn’t hurt to check the alternator connection too (be sure to disconnect the battery before messing with that).
Ok so I’m cleaning the grounds, great. Take out the battery box and push aside the ECU. It basically looks like half the wiring harness underneath has the insulation melted off. Suggestions lol????
A1985B93-C015-483D-A21F-EE8F85602954.jpeg
 

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Wow, not good! So clean the grounds...they need it.

In regards to the harness, with the battery disconnected, use some CEC Electrical Contact Cleaner on the harness. After it dries (very quick), carefully separate the wiring. If it’s not too bad, I’d try to wrap individual wires in electrical tape as best you can. When you’re done, wrap the outside of the harness section in question with reflective tape. I know...I’m a bit OCD...but that’s what I’d do. :)
 

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This is basically what I have been researching on. I'll grab the electrical cleaner, probably separate the wires with toothpicks and insulate somehow and definitely wrap with something reflective. was thinking of coating each wire in high temp RTV or shrink wrapping. Never done shrink tube, does it ever come pre-split? I had already put some reflective tape on the outside of the battery box too, it was getting wicked hot.

Oh yeah and I cleaned all the grounds and contacts I could find on the body. Like 11 of them. Glistening now!
 

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Unfortunately shrink wrap doesn’t work if it’s split... they do make brush-on wire insulation though.
 

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Joshinator, if/when you come to my neck of the woods I owe you a six pack my dude.

I cleaned a slew of grounds that I could find around the body, and under the battery box. It was under the battery box that I found the damaged harness. I coated the wire as smoothly as possible, while squeezing as little into the strands as possible, with RTV, after thoroughly and gently cleaning with both battery terminal cleaner and CRC electronics cleaner. Wrapped with foil covered fiberglass now.

I have a suspicion though. This car was definitely in an accident with a previous owner. Rear left tail light doesn't sit flush, and damage to the front left corner. The mounts on the bumper that attach inside the wheel well sheared from an impact, and someone tried to epoxy that in place. With damage to that corner, right where the battery box is, I wonder if a battery leaked and corroded the insulation off from the harness. With how the battery box is mounted on a slant forward and down toward the nose of the car, with a hole where the battery hold-down passes through to the frame, it kind of makes sense. I'm also curious about what had been previously repaired in this harness; as you can see there are more splices in there. I'm frankly not certain that wire that I was working on was carrying a current anymore and was possibly replaced, but I'll never know. Not going to touch it with the system live anyway.
 

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Joshinator, if/when you come to my neck of the woods I owe you a six pack my dude.

I cleaned a slew of grounds that I could find around the body, and under the battery box. It was under the battery box that I found the damaged harness. I coated the wire as smoothly as possible, while squeezing as little into the strands as possible, with RTV, after thoroughly and gently cleaning with both battery terminal cleaner and CRC electronics cleaner. Wrapped with foil covered fiberglass now.

I have a suspicion though. This car was definitely in an accident with a previous owner. Rear left tail light doesn't sit flush, and damage to the front left corner. The mounts on the bumper that attach inside the wheel well sheared from an impact, and someone tried to epoxy that in place. With damage to that corner, right where the battery box is, I wonder if a battery leaked and corroded the insulation off from the harness. With how the battery box is mounted on a slant forward and down toward the nose of the car, with a hole where the battery hold-down passes through to the frame, it kind of makes sense. I'm also curious about what had been previously repaired in this harness; as you can see there are more splices in there. I'm frankly not certain that wire that I was working on was carrying a current anymore and was possibly replaced, but I'll never know. Not going to touch it with the system live anyway.
Yes, yes you do. :p

Glad you were able to make some good headway on this. It’s tough when the previous owner didn’t care for the car the way you would have. Makes for an uphill ownership experience.
 
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