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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there,
anyone did it already ? Is it really complicated ?
I mean once the gearbox is removed from the car, how difficult is it to just swap the valve body AND the filter with new ones?
Nothing else just swapping.
Thank you.
 

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People have done it, takes about 4 hours. Often cheaper than sending it off for a rebuild. 2006 aeros were known to have valve bodies that wear prematurely causing flaring / shifting issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi, thank you.
I was actually quite curious to find out if just swapping can be done by a mechanic who's not really "specialized" in transmissions.
I mean how hard is it just to open it up, remove the valve body and the filter, replace with new ones and screw everything back in.
Anything to pay attention to ? Like small parts that have to be refitted, etc ... ?
Thanks.
 

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Its mostly a bolt in, bolt out affair nothing to ridiculously complicated. There are small electrical connectors in there that are a pain to unclip but nothing ridiculous to worry about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Merci bien JJ, thanks !

Is there a high risk to break them ? Are they tough or easily breakable ?

One more thing, I have heard that a special gasket maker is needed for final sealing, apparently Loctite. Any idea about which Loctite # number ?

Thanks.
 

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On the one I took apart, the connectors can be a little flaky as they are exposed to oil but wasnt too bad if you do it slowly.
Yeah used an anerobic sealant, loctite 516 if im not mistaken. its some red stuff that cures in the absense of oxygen. Cant use silicone gasket maker as blobs would wash off and go for a ride in the transmission plugging something.
 

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I know the normal 2.0t/T auto the valve body can be removed, while the trans is still hooked up in the car. There is an old video on youtube where the guy is taking it off:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeYAnF2KGYw

Read the comments....apparently he cleaned it with brake cleaner (I'd check if that is the preferred solvent) but he in the process he found a stuck solenoid to replace and all was well.
 

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Does anyone have a link to the valve body? I see amazon and eeuroparts has them for $1140. I read you can get them after core for $700. I read on other threads you can do this with the trans in the car. Also, do not take out the transmission cooler plugs in the radiator. Also read the WIS does a good job explaining the job. I think 3 hours what I read. I am going to have to do this to our 2007 Aero. She does not like stop and go traffic.
 

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Looks like one is a new item and the other is rebuilt and also requires you to send back a core.
 

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I called the sonnax dealer here in TwinFalls ID. They mainly use Central valve body. Price is $725 but they rebuild your valve body. No core and you get the one from your Saab back. Could be a good thing. I am wait on a call back for a sonnax price. I been told most of not all use sonnax parts. OEM one off Ebay from the UK is less then $500 but why get that when you will have the same problem. I am sure its not updated being OEM. I am going to do a thread on dyi the valve body your self. I see nothing out there. I priced out a Tech 2 tool off Amazon but will need the Saab card. $438 for a complete Gm with out case. Reviews look good. I need to read into the thread about it on here. I watched the video that someone posted and it looks rather easy but I can be wrong. I have not found it in the WIS yet. Once this is fixed, Saab should last a long time then.
 

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l am not looking again at removing the valve body on out 07 Aero. 2 fill and spills for the trans fluid did help but little. I reallee hope I do not have to drop the trans. I just reinstall the WIS on our computer after I did a reformat. Hope it says how to do it. The indy Saab guy here looked at the trans and I ended up wasting our money on it. All he did was check codes, pull a small oil sample and drove it. But never where we told him it happens and is common. We have not driven her for monthsssssss. When I went to Denis Smith of Nissan in Spokane WA, I asked there Saab tech Daryle about it and he has no clue too. Anyone by chance have more info. Still not finding much. Posted on the 2.8 alliance group on facebook.
 

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There are full instructions in the WIS.
However if you have the error codes this may pinpoint a specific valve problem.
So rather than change the whole valve body its could be much easier if you just have to swap out the bad one.
I got lucky recently swapping out a faulty BL solenoid from a used gearbox.
Having taken the valve body out of the used gearbox and seeing the blind O rings and additional gaskets etc it could be a bit tricky doing a full swap imho.
 

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There are full instructions in the WIS.
However if you have the error codes this may pinpoint a specific valve problem.
So rather than change the whole valve body its could be much easier if you just have to swap out the bad one.
I got lucky recently swapping out a faulty BL solenoid from a used gearbox.
Having taken the valve body out of the used gearbox and seeing the blind O rings and additional gaskets etc it could be a bit tricky doing a full swap imho.
I found it after I reinstalled Wis. Took a bit to get it to work. Reformatted our computer. I might call a trans company and see what they say and charge. I forgot to add that it has given little problems when going interstate speeds and punching it. You can feel it hesitate.
 

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I found it after I reinstalled Wis. Took a bit to get it to work. Reformatted our computer. I might call a trans company and see what they say and charge. I forgot to add that it has given little problems when going interstate speeds and punching it. You can feel it hesitate.
Are you getting hesitation issues in the low rev range before the turbo kicks in? Is the car slow to pull away at junctions?
There are known issues with the 6 speed gearbox having conservative torque limit values that can be sorted with a remap.
 

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Are you getting hesitation issues in the low rev range before the turbo kicks in? Is the car slow to pull away at junctions?
There are known issues with the 6 speed gearbox having conservative torque limit values that can be sorted with a remap.
When we take off it move file then when shifting up it lags, rpms shoot up, and bangs into gear. Not taking off fast. Like you in stop and go traffic. After it acts up, shifting into reverse or back into drive it clunks. The trans fluid was dark brown when I drained it. She was taken care of before we bought it too. One owner and long history on the Carfax. No wrecks too. Was a Seattle Saab. She is not slow if we take off in a aggressive way at stops. She is plenty fast.
 
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